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Reply to "Great Northern railway"

prep and painting a N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2.

I still need to assemble the Texas & Pacific 2-10-4 engine but figure I can do that while this engine is 'cooking'.

I wanted a Y6B but this was for sale 2 years ago at a real good price so I bought it instead (plus it, closely, looks like a Y6B!)  The engine was made in 1978.

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 02

Unusual box lid in that's it's hinged. 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 03

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 06

This, also, sold me on the model: removable cab roof with real nice interior detail.  The PFM Y6B that I was looking for didn't have this kind of detail.   This will make it easy to paint the interior walls a light green.

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 13

The open frame motor replaced with a can motor.  This is one of the motors that I purchased for 5 bucks which, to me, appears to be a duplicate of Kato's motor.

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No holes in the motor frame to secure it to the engine so just used clear silicone.   New tubing replaced the old black dried out tubing plus a metal rod inserted between motor and gear for stability. 

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DC test was good.

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LED and decoder prep:

Multiple holes drilled below the tender's deck plate to route decoder wires (8 of them).

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 21

A 'burr' used to remove the brass sheet under the tender's deck.  A little filing 'cleaned it up'.

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Tender light plus hole in tender to route LED wires.

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Four running board lights over each of the valve gears.

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 24

Marker lights drilled and holes in front smoke box to route LED wires. 

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Three screws had to be removed to disassemble the valve gear from the valve gear supports. 

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The slot in the support was too small to pull the valve mechanism through so the one small screw had to be removed. 

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There were 2 small screws to be removed to take the valve mechanism out of the support.

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Each screw was different so care was taken to replace, immediately, back into it's respective hole. 

N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 29

 

Some valve gears are soldered onto the driver's crank pin.  This one has a small screw.

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No springs for the drivers but wires, instead.  In theory, this should allow better traction between all drivers as the motion of one driver affects the motion of it's 'neighbor'. 

 

 N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 33

All parts arranged in the same orientation that they are removed from the engine. 

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Washed all parts in dish washing liquid and vinegar, dried them, taped up all exposed surfaces not getting paint and put the first coat of Scalecoat #10 black on all parts.  Parts in paper boxes are air dried while metal tray gets the usual 200 degrees for 2 hours.  Unusual on the tender trucks not having screws to remove the wheels so they will have to be air dried. 

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'Cooking' for 2 hours in the toaster oven.

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Attachments

Images (22)
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 02
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 03
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 06
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 13
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 18
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 19
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 20
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 21
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 22
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 23
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 24
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 25
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 26
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 27
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 28
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 29
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 31
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 32
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 33
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 34
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 35
  • N&W Y-3 2-8-8-2 custom brass 36
Last edited by samparfitt
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