Thanks Mark, I have a feeling 800 more trees are not going to be 'enough'!
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Repairing the newly acquired Tenshodo UP 4-6-6-4 (cont).
The soft foam was missing in the box as decades old foam deteriorates so I cut some new foam using a utility knife and a metal straight edge and then the scroll saw to cut the area for the engine and tender.
I have a 1973 Tenshodo that I used to get the dimensions of the engine and tender.
I'll, also, be using the 1973 engine for reference on repairing the new 1999 engine.
I had to recut one edge as I forgot about the wood base that is included in the box.
I bought large sheets of 1/2" and 2" thick foam several years ago and much of it has been 'used'.
Top layer.
The sliding lid on the wood box 'just' closes with the new foam.
The engine came with a plexiglass sheet with engine 'details'.
I remembered that I have some 'stain glass' pliers that have curved 'ends'.
This should help in repairing the extended roof past the cab that is bent as compared to the 1973 engine.
The tender light was broken off but the part was not in the box so I needed to make a new one.
The 1973 tender used for reference.
Gathered up the materials needed for the tender headlight.
Hobby miter saw good for the headlight cut from some brass tubing.
The 'headlight' was soldered to some brass sheeting.
Some tools that I'm using.
The small tin snips are good for delicate work.
My old 'metal forming' tools for when I restored a 1964 Chevy Impala SS hardtop may come in 'handy' for the 'dents'.
Had electric windows and factory 'in dash' (not under the dash) air conditioning.
Only thing I now have is my 2005 Chevy truck.
Something new. Nice in that it's a 'paste' so can apply, easily, in small amounts and in 'tight areas'.
Initially I thought I'd need to solder thin pieces of brass for the 'supports' but I was able to just cut everything from one piece of brass.
I drilled a hole in the 'headlight' for an LED.
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Front pilot repair.
This item is in bad shape and it took the 'brunt' of the 'force' when damaged in transit (along with the cab roof).
'They' must of wanted to drop it on both ends to insure 'lots of damage'!
Lacquer thinner softens the paint quickly and a black bristle brush removed it from the brass parts.
Second cleaning with 'fresh' lacquer thinner.
Interesting. Tenshodo made a small insulated circuit board to route electricity to the headlight.
2 screws so that part was removed.
Parts that need repairing and soldering.
Both steps were deformed. Some needle nose pliers worked well.
The coupler 'lift pins' mechanism was crushed and needed 'straightening'.
Most engines just have a straight piece of brass wire from one 'lift handle' to the other 'lift handle'.
The 'swinging' coupler was pre-blackened so lacquer didn't affect its color.
Need the 'heavy duty' stuff: resistance soldering.
First the steps were soldered to the pilot, then a new piece of brass sheeting was soldered to the pilot as it was 'snapped off' and needed to attach the pilot to the front engine frame.
The 1973 engine used to insure 'correct orientation'.
Front plate soldered to the pilot.
Finally, the top deck was soldered to the steps.
Needs another lacquer thinner clean up but all's good.
