Engine pilot couplers.
If the GN electrics are going to pull the trains through the cascade tunnel then all engines are going to need Kadees added to the pilot. A lot of the engines already have couplers on the front pilot but those that didn't have Kadees, had dummy couplers. The dummy couplers were removed.
Number 00-90 brass screws with tap works well on the couplers and engine pilots. Looks like #5 Kadees has a long enough shank for most pilots.
After drilling the hole in the Kadee shank, I cut off the 'rounded' back end.
I drilled through the pilot's coupler pocket through to the bottom of the pocket.
I found it best to tap the coupler pocket while the coupler is in the pocket so all threads align.
A little black paint will hide the screw head.
The bottom of the pilot is, usually, not a scale distance from the rails to allow for our 'unscale' vertical track movements so the coupler height is not always correct. If it's close, I just leave it 'as is' since only the two engines will be connected and not a long string of cars. An alternative is to get Kadees off set shank couplers.
This PFM SF 2-10-4 had no coupler pocket but was just a rectangular hole on a flat surface. A brass pin was holding the dummy coupler in place, which was removed. I found it easiest to drill/tap from the bottom into the top front deck to secure the coupler to the front deck.
The cow catcher on this engine was too long so it prevents proper coupling to the front engine coupler thus, I'll have to get some long shank couplers for it.
