POST 08:
Traction tire replacement (steam engines).
I couldn't find a 3mm socket to fit the hex head bolt so, initially, I tried some small needle nose pliers. Worked on one side but I scratched the bolt head so I went to harbor freight and got a set of fine screw drivers for 5 bucks.
The power grinding wheel was needed to thin down the outer wall of the 3 mm screw driver so it would fit inside the side rod hole.
Depending on how scale your side rods are, only one hex head bolt needs to be removed for articulated side rods else all the bolts will have to be removed to move the solid, one piece, side rod over to allow the traction tire to be added.
If you have to remove all the bolts, note where the offset crank is located before removing it. It's normally just facing off center, counter clockwise. If you get it mounted way off center, you can have binding.
Pretty nice enhancement in that a small brass bushing is inserted between the stud on the driver and the hole in the side rod. The bushing should get all the wear so the bushing can be replaced versus a worn out side rod. The washer holds the side rod to the driver via the bolt. (don't even loose any of these parts!)
A dental pick makes quick work putting on a new traction tire. The rubber tire is about a 1/4" less in diameter than the driver diameter.
Some thin CA, first put on a toothpick (keeps applying too much). and then touching the sides of the traction tire allows the CA to wick in and better secure the traction tire to the driver. A small flat screw driver may be needed, later, should you have to remove the old tire, via a little scrapping. For for when you have those, accidental, fast starts!
