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Greetings! My 313 postwar bascule bridge works fine when wired according to the instructions with the following exception: The 96C control button must be held down throughout the entire bridge up/down cycle. I know the cycle has ended (and I can release the controller button) when the engine light comes on, signifying the return of power to the insulated block.

This same bridge (and same 96C controller) used to work as described in the postwar instructions, i.e., "...Hold button down just long enough to start the motor in the bridge. Then release the button and the consequent operation of the bridge and train will be automatic...."

I realize my good fortune in owning a 60+ year old somewhat tempermental accessory that still mostly works as intended. If necessary, I am willing to live with this small problem.

Neverthrless, I would appreciate hearing from anyone who might have insight into and/or a remedy for this problem. Thank you.
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It sounds like one pair of the blade contacts is not making a good connection. These are found inside the metal shack. When you push the button, it supplies the power to get the motor started at which point the first set of contacts complete the circuit which then supplies the power to keep the motor engaged.

You can remove the shack by carefully straightening the metal tabs that hold it to the base. Look at the contacts and watch what happens as the bridge is raised and lowered. If you follow the wiring, you'll be able to understand how the make/break connections work.
Sounds like the 4 layer wafer switch is out of adjustment. If you have rebuilt / rewired a UCS Controller, you should have no trouble with this wafer switch in as much as it operates in a similar manner ( check Backshop vol 4 dvd ). After the cam begins to rotate, the switch closes contacts which connect terminal #3 to the motor, bypassing the controller start button. After the bridge lowers, the contacts open removing power to the motor.
quote:
Originally posted by DennisB:
It sounds like one pair of the blade contacts is not making a good connection. These are found inside the metal shack. When you push the button, it supplies the power to get the motor started at which point the first set of contacts complete the circuit which then supplies the power to keep the motor engaged.

You can remove the shack by carefully straightening the metal tabs that hold it to the base. Look at the contacts and watch what happens as the bridge is raised and lowered. If you follow the wiring, you'll be able to understand how the make/break connections work.


There's no need to remove the shack at all as the contacts are just inside the tower structure, not inside the building. The building houses the motor only. If you need to hold the button down continuously, then the top contact on the stack is dirty. Try some conact cleaner on it, and if that doesn't work, then borrow one of your wife's emery board and slip it between the contacts and work it back and forth a few times followed by a shot of contact cleaner.

Dennis
Dont forget the second set of contacts that controls track power.
As the bridge starts to move one set of contacts close to power
the bridge motor and the second set opens to turn off power to the
track. When the bridge gets all the way down the motor turns off but
the contacts for track power must close before the motor stops or the
train will not start running.Getting both sets of contacts adjusted
can be difficult if any of the fiber contact spacers are missing. Could
not get both contacts to work so used 2 relays one for the motor
and one for track power.
Not solving the problem but a different mode of operation is what I did. I just wired it so the motor comes on as soon as power is applied. I just wired it up to a transformer throttle on an old V type transformer and can even control the speed of the bridge up and down. It's not automatic but I don't run the bridge much unless someone wants to see it work.

Ray
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