3rd Rail Niagara

Jim, I think this engine predates puff and chuff. It has a TAS SAW board in the tender and the smoke unit emits a steady stream. To remove the smoke unit you pry off the smokebox front. Its just a friction fit. I believe there is a screw underneath but also a screw fitting in the stack that has to come out. You will see the slots if you check the stack.

These engines were not very well built. I have one New Old Stock that had pieces rolling around in the box. Also a beater I picked up that had to have nearly all the fittings resoldered. Take care when handling them. The slide switch underneath the cab is the smoke on/off switch despite how its marked.

Pete

Easily upgraded,  I did mine over 15 years ago.  EOB with turbo smoke unit.  Would be even easier today with ERR cruise, GRJ super chuffer, and chuff generator.  The engine is one of my best runners and are very well built but like all brass engine you have handle with a little care.  Check out this video.

boy has the layout changed since I did these videos.

two screws behind the cab and a big screw under the smoke box and you can remove the boiler.  Two screws hold the smoke bracket and you will have to remove the smoke stack screw to get the smoke unit out.

The model I have is the S1b 6024, circa 2002.  The instruction manual states synchronized puffing and chuffing via a microprocessor.  Can't verify, because as of now - no smoke.  Will dig in tomorrow.

Also seems to have a tight spot running in the roller stands.  I wasn't planning to have a new in box fixer-upper, but it's time to make lemonade...

I appreciate any further insight/tweaks on this model.

 I believe mine had the #1 main axle slightly out of quarter? I bought it used and don't know if that's true or if maybe something else was happening.

 I upgraded mine with a new smoke unit and command boards by MTH. I took the easy way out and enlarged or made the side rod's hole slightly oblong for slack. I found that in one position that one side rod would be really tight. So I believed that was causing the bind up. After playing around it runs much smoother.

 I would recommend having someone with experience checking the bind. It would have been better to fix the axle if it really was out of quarter like I still believe.

I swear it still happens slightly at 1 or 2 MPH on mine.

My first 3rd Rail Niagara was the NOS 6024. After unpacking I found the screw holding the lead weight had fallen out and the weight had knocked the smokebox front off as well as a couple of cleanout plugs in the boiler.

Putting the weight back in requires a lot of fiddling to line up the screw hole. You may have to remove the weight to pull the smoke unit out as it may be pressing on the wires. 

Make sure it not just the switch in the wrong position before trying to extract the smoke unit.

As for the tight spot, make sure the drivers are in quarter. None of my three Niagaras have this problem but my 3Rd Rail Dreyfuss Hudson does. Also check the eccentric crank has not moved. A common problem that can cause binding or bent rods.

Pete

Side question, if the wheels are out of quarter, what's the fix?

To do it right the driver sets should be removed from the engine. I have jig for doing HO engines made many moons ago. I have not done any O scale engines yet but as I now have machine tools would clamp them in collets and turn them.

Scott implied you might be able to turn them while still in the engine frame, maybe???

I believe there are some forum members who have the tools to do this. Probably the best option if you don't have the means to do it yourself.

Pete