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Thanks John. It's good to know someone has them.

Let me get more specific, it would be for a 20-3108-1 Shay. would there be any issues involved in installing the 32 board? There was a PS3 version of this engine made (although I can't find one) so on the MTH website there is the original PS2 file, a PS2 upgrade file, and a PS3 file. Which one would you use on a 32 board?

Ken

If you bought the upgrade kit, they should have the appropriate steam or diesel chain files loaded.  When we get the bare PS32 boards, they all come with diesel chain files, so for a steam application, I load the steam file.

If you have a locomotive with a small single resistor smoke unit, you MUST load the proper chain files or you'll burn up that smoke unit, the standard files are for the full sized smoke unit with two resistors.

Finally, the recently distributed PS32 chain files for the small smoke unit were bad, they actually had the file for the large smoke unit!

I've inserted the correct file for the small smoke unit into my copy and use it if I have a small smoke unit application, file attached.

PS32_Steam_SmO_3528-CPF - FIXED.zip

Attachments

To be clear there are No more PS-2 3V or PS-2 3V with 5V connectors.  So PS-32 is the repair method as John stated.  PS-32 requires a 4 ohm speaker if going into a 5V engine which used 16 ohm speaker.   For PS-32 you only use the PS-32 type flash codes of which there are many depending on the repair.  Panto, coors, smoke unit size etc...   You CAN NOT use the PS-3 flash codes.   G

I started this thread because I was considering buying a steam loco with a PS2, 5V board and expecting I would have to eventually replace the board. What I'm getting from all the responses is that if I needed to do a replacement I would have to ship it to an ASC to do the replacement mainly because right now the correct chain files are only available to ASC's.

The engine I'm considering is rare in the particular roadname but also the seller has overpriced it in my opinion. Adding the cost of an ASC to do the replacement is dropping my interest in getting the engine.

Ken

@kanawha posted:

The engine I'm considering is rare in the particular roadname but also the seller has overpriced it in my opinion. Adding the cost of an ASC to do the replacement is dropping my interest in getting the engine.

Ken

Rare in the roadname but overpriced? Fair market value is what a willing buyer will pay a willing seller, neither being under a compulsion to buy or sell and both being aware of all relevant facts. So figure out if you really want it and do what you need to do.

BTW, I have a number of MTH engines with the 5 volt boards, and they've worked pretty well for a long time. I know the rap on them, but my experience is that if you take care of them, they work well.

Gerry

@gmorlitz posted:

BTW, I have a number of MTH engines with the 5 volt boards, and they've worked pretty well for a long time. I know the rap on them, but my experience is that if you take care of them, they work well.

If you've never had a 5V board failure, you are indeed lucky, time to buy a Lottery ticket!

I have some that have run a very long time and are still running.  However, I've had others that have croaked for no apparent reason.   Taking care of them isn't in the picture.  Other than insuring you have a good battery, exactly how to you "take care" of the board set?  It's well known and widely publicized that the 5V boards don't have the longevity of the 3V design.

I didn't say I never had a failure. You take care of them by either making sure you have a good battery (not my choice) or having a BCR. And if a BCR, you allow it the minute or so to charge before you run the engine. Simple, but I do consider that "taking care". I know the rap, and maybe I am just a bit lucky with the 5 volt boards. I have had two proto3 failures, which is way above my 5 volt experience as a percentage. But I don't see any reason to plan for failure and get the upgrade boards now. Hopefully, whoever takes over MTH parts will continue to provide boards.

Gerry

The PS32 boards are basically the diesel board with a top interface board.  One reason they're a bit more robust (or at least easier to repair) is they interface all the lighting through the stacker board to change from LED to 6V incandescent.  So, you can fix lighting failures due to shorted or pinched wires.  For the PS/3 diesel board, if there is a short in the lighting wiring, it takes out the output from the uP, and it's non-repairable.

If you go to the 50-1911 steam upgrade kit there is a link to get latest files.   When you click that link it has the form for the down load but the options are only 3 for the typical steam engines.  Would work for your steam, but not if someone was trying to replace a Diesel board or some other specialty train like coors or GG-1 etc...

I guess the philosophy was a repair was being done by a tech, not someone buying an upgrade kit to do the repair.  So the MTH tech had the files and knowledge about the various differences.  Plus before PS-3 there were no flash codes to load.  That was a factory/MTH service operation with special equipment.  G

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