A cleaning question

Probably the best approach, using a mild soap and very soft brush, something like a one-inch paint brush.  

 

Frankly, time is the one thing that works dependably here, and maybe the only one.  As you know anything that works really fast on the grime and greasy buildup is going to have the potential to remove lettering, etc., if not paint.  If it were me and I knew the locos well (by which I mean I knew if this trick would work) I might place them upside down in maybe 3/8 inch of soapy water and let them soak for a day or too first - but only if I knew that the electrics inside are not tall enough that they would get water on this, etc.  

Thanks for the tip Lee.

Soaking is the kind of time consumption that may work as it's not my time. I'll see which ones I can remove the shells and give it a try. I'll need some big plastic tubs for these centipedes though.

Usually the soap and water/quick dry will work.  A soft cleaning cloth or paper towels may aid with the cleaning.  A very soft brush, I have used a tooth brush, be careful with any brush or abrasive/hard cleaning device.  I use an air nozzle to air dry units/cars once wet cleaned.  Air dry and soft paper towels kind of finish/polish most units.   The tar like smoke residue can be an issue that soap and water may not solve.  Best wishes with your project.   I also use Windex and 409 cleaner in spray bottles, removing wet cleaner quickly. 
My sweetheart provided this essential kit, (as she calls it), that does a pretty good job of removing most dust and debris.

This kit with the air nozzle does a good job with my once a year complete cleaning of the shelved units.
Mike CT

Why not sell them as is, you may never get the smoke smell out anyway.

 

 I agree. The Weaver Pennsy M1a in the picture above came from a smoke environment. I have yet to get it clean. Smell and sticky tack on the surface seems to always be there no matter how hard you try to remove it.

For what it is worth, I had great results with using Windex to remove the tar/smokers grime from some items I inherited from heavy smoking grandparents. None were plastic though, so I can't say with certainty it will be as effective.

I believe a Fire and Flood restoration company would have special ionization and electrostatic cleaning operations that could propably remove all contaniments without leaving any residue behind.

I agree with audi and Mike CT. If you are going to sell the trains, leave it to the purchaser to remove the dirt.
Any attempt you make to clean them might leave the trains with an uneven or mottled look.
Residue from tobacco smoke may not come off. I had a postwar Budd car that would have been beautiful had it not belonged to a smoker. The entire unit had a brownish yellow film from the smoke. I was unable to remove it.

Yeah that's right, ^^^^^^why not $CREW the next guy?  Pass the buck!

Make your money and sleep well  - because then it will  be someone else' problem!

 

Hey, there are already enough people that do this ^^^ do you want be another?

   

Just to point out, I'm intending to be upfront whether I get things quickly cleaned or not. This is a large lot of trains (almost 300 engines alone), and I am in charge of liquidating it in the best interest of the estate. i make my money no matter which way it goes, so I just want to do the responsible thing for all parties. Not looking to "screw the next guy" as the buyer will know they are getting a project along with the deal.

You could have stumbled on your answer yourself!! )

 

Gandy

I'd try using Simple Green [from the auto parts] and its environmentally friendly. Choo Choo Kenny

Simple green is not Environmentally friendly.
It is a strong caustic and will corrode aluminum, rust ferrous metals and is an excellent paint stripper for plastic models.

Just because it does not contain VOC's does not mean it is friendly.
Still your hand in it for awhile, get it in your eye, or accidentally inhale the mist from a spray bottle of the cleaner and you will see how " friendly" it is.

quote:

Yeah that's right, ^^^^^^why not $CREW the next guy?  Pass the buck!

Make your money and sleep well  - because then it will  be someone else' problem

 

YOU ARE DEAD WRONG!

Nobody would be getting screwed.

The purchaser would be buying the train at a reduced price in exchange for assuming the risk of cleaning the train.

I'd leave it to the purchaser too. As long as you're up front about the condition, no one will (or at least should) mind.

 

Use this with caution, if at all, but it does work on sticky/greasy messes:

Dampen the pad of one thumb and press it into baking soda. Using very light pressure, stroke your thumb across the dirty areas, wipe your thumb off on a paper towel and repeat. Stuff will come off that you wouldn't imagine could. Don't try this over lettering or very old soft paint. Otherwise, baking soda is softer than most paints but harder than most contaminants and will lift crud from most surfaces without damage, provided you don't use a Q-Tip or other tool. By using only your fingertip, you have precise control over the amount of pressure you're putting on an area. If you find that the paint is responding well to the cleaning, showing no sign of coming off, you can try a toothpick to get into small detail areas. The best thing to use in that case would be a paper stomp from an art supply department, but those are sometimes hard to come by and a toothpick shouldn't scratch too much.

 

--Becky

Gentlemen I am very sorry for giving out bad information about trying to clean things with Simple Green. I was told it was environmentally safe [now I know I am wrong] and I did not know it would take paint off. When I used it to clean greasy car parts it did not seem to take the paint off the parts but I never tried to use it on plastic parts. Ffffreddd thank you for setting me straight I guess I should not be trying to help people if I don't know what I am talking about. Hopefully I did not screw up anyone's trains and I am really really sorry for giving out bad advice. Choo Choo Kenny 

The manufacturer claims Simple Green is environmentally friendly. According to Wikipedia, the EPA endorses its use to clean up oil spills. I use Simple Green to clean up greasy parts all the time. The parts have to be rinsed well. And a metal protectant may be required, because the Simple Green will wash the old protectant away.

 

That written, I would not use Simple Green to clean any painted or otherwise decorated part. It is too powerful. It can remove paint, lettering, etc.

To endorse what has already been said about Simple Green: I use Simple Green to mop the concrete floor of my workshop. It does a great job. It does not come near my trains. Ever.