Adding a (reed) Chuff Switch to a tender

Gluing the magnet on the back side of a wheel not recommended. It will cause problems at 5 rail uncoupling tracks and the guard rails on switches.

I use goo on the reed. CA works also if shrink tube is over the reed. I don’t use any glue on the magnet. The magnet sticks to the wheel by itself. Easier to adjust the placement of the magnet.

Does anyone know if a read switch would work with the Lionel axle mounted magnet that is used with the Hall effect sensor?

I don’t believe so. Have you inquired about GRJ’s product to replace the reed? 

RonH posted:

Does anyone know if a read switch would work with the Lionel axle mounted magnet that is used with the Hall effect sensor?

Yes, it appears to - I just tried it and got 2 chuffs per revolution of the magnet.

GeoPeg posted:

RonH posted:

Does anyone know if a read switch would work with the Lionel axle mounted magnet that is used with the Hall effect sensor?

Yes, it appears to - I just tried it and got 2 chuffs per revolution of the magnet.

Thanks, I’m doing a tender project with 6 wheel trucks for a Lionel 221 project using a mighty sound of steam board. I have the higher current read switches on order and they should be in any day, can not wait😊

Chuck Sartor posted:

Gluing the magnet on the back side of a wheel not recommended. It will cause problems at 5 rail uncoupling tracks and the guard rails on switches.

So Chuck are you saying that gluing is a bad idea? Or are you saying don't stick anything on the backside of a tender wheel? If so, what's the ideal location for magnet(s)?

The magnet if put on the backside of a wheel will likely break off going through switches or derail the truck. If you mount the magnet high enough to clear the switch guard rails or uncoupling track operating rails there will not be enough make and break time with the reed switch. Mounting on the axle would be a better choice.

When I was using the magnets a lot, I used CA to stick them to the wheel.  As Ron stated, they can be simply stuck to the wheel by magnetic force, but I found that they too often got knocked out of line after delivering the locomotive, so I adjust them to work, then glue them in place.  I also used CA to stick the reed switch to the truck.

 I think he is warning you not to make the wheel flange are wider. Any magnet on a wheel would need to be closer to the axle than the tread o.d. or it will hit guide rails and the "eye" of uncouplers unless the magnets sit higher that the rails.

 Reed switches can be mounted about any way you can imagine. Glass ones can be sanded so adhesives stick better.

Relays can be used for more current when smaller reeds are a must (triggered by the reed)

Mounting oriention is a must, only one reed arm is moved by the magnet so before you sand, shrink tube, or paint it, note which side is "up".

Got it! I placed the magnets on the inside of the wheel, snugged up against the axle - pretty much had to since there's a very concave area on the inside of the wheel that doesn't allow the magnets to sit flat. That position also seems to provide good duration of switch closure, and it should certainly clear any switches, crossings, etc. I will not glue the magnets until I am satisfied they are in the right spot, then probably a bit of CA to hold things in place.

Another thing I didn't know was about the orientation of the reed switch. I read this article about reed switch orientation, but must have missed the part about only one reed arm actually doing the movement. 

George

George, you can't link to a file on your computer, you have to add it as an attachment here.

GeoPeg posted:

... I read this article about reed switch orientation...

Based on filename, probably meant:

https://standexelectronics.com...-a-permanent-magnet/

PDF attached.

Yeah............................. What a rookie mistake. Thanks John & Stan! And yes, that was the file I was trying to link to (sheepish grin.)