BCR Replacement Question

In most cases a very simple procedure. Just remove the tender shell or the diesel shell, unplug the MTH battery and replace with the BCR.

Paul,

   This is very easy stuff, just remove the shell of your engine by unscrewing it, you will see your battery and connections, remove the battery from its holder on the frame, then remove the electrical connection from the battery, replace the connection on the correct posts of the BCR, and re-install in the battery holder, put your shell back on

your engine, becareful not to pinch any wires and screw the shell back on to the frame, do not over tighten the screws or you will crack the plastic engine shell.

 

J&C Hobbies usually has the BCR's hanging right on the wall, tell the owner which one you need.  Order right over the phone their number is 412-795-9344.  Paul if I remember right you live in NJ, if you have a hobby shop or trains store near you, just walk in and purchase the BCR, most all the places have them now.

PCRR/Dave

Paul

Another place just in case is www.trainsontracks.com 603-554-1543.

Larry

The screws that typically remove the plastic shell on MTH tenders and locos has a small flat washer cast into the head of the screw. Only remove those screws.

Don't be afraid it's a 10 minute process but I found some diesels that are more difficult so if you feel uncomftorble with that bring it to have installed but most MTH engines are easy.

As others have mentioned, it is a very simple project. Be advised that some engines can be more difficult than others to take apart and get to the battery, my Premier GP9 for example, has the battery under the boards with wire harnesses surrounding it. It is a bear to get to and the shell is a PITA to get on properly so wires won't interfere with the motors. If you think you may be in over your head, stop, either go to your LHS or try the forum. 

Sounds like something even I can do!!

Thanx again to my OGR friends!

Paul

LOL great minds think alike SJC

Some are as easy as removing the shell,the battery slips in and out. Some others you have to loosen or even remove the PC board to clear the battery. You can cop out and just break the plastic case a bit and slip out the battery. Anyway if you loosen the board and remove screws,there is a clear Mica insulator that is easily misplaced which is sandwiched between the frame and a chip with a metal back. . If this is left out, the horn will blow continually.

 

Dale H

GO for it!  GOOD LUCK! 

Looks like we hit "reply" right about the same time. If I saw your post Gene I would have never posted. 

Thanx for the tip Dale!

I buy my BCR's at my LHS. They will install them free. it only takes 5 minutes at most. The proviso is that if something goes wrong with the engine after instillation it is not on them. The had one situation where they replaced a guy's battery with a BCR and the engine malfunctioned. (don't know why) He wanted the engine replace.

 

I did replace one myself and it was just like putting a new battery in. No big deal. But, you do need to know what size BCR (connector) to buy for which engine.

Hi Paul,

Dale gives you a good tip. Some battery holders have a plastic lip to keep the battery from moving. Break the lip off to save having to remove the battery holder.

I have installed them in Rail King Berkshires, Rail King Santa Fe Northerns, Rail King E-6, Rail King Alleghenies, Rail King Royal Hudson.  Next will come the Premier NYC Hudson.  They are super easy to instal!

Another great tip! Thanx, Bobby!

I just installed my first two BCR's this past weekend, both in MTH steam engine tenders. Not sure why I waited so many years to attempt to do this...it was really easy!

Just be careful to not pinch any wires when putting the shell back on. Some locos are packed with ten pounds of... er... stuff in a five pound shell.

Some of the holders are metal...I've taken a pair of needle nose pliers, pried one side open, slid in the BCR and bent the clip back into shape. A little crude but it keeps the battery clip installed without snapping anything off (unless you bend the metal a lot of course!). 

NOT so easy on the LCT "Brute"!  

 

Requires almost complete disassembly of this very heavy tinplate engine to get to the battery. You would think the MTH engineers would have included an ACCESS PORT, but N-O-O-O-O! 

I do not look forward to installing them in the tender of the Rail King Triplex.  There is not easy access to the shell screws because of the drivers.  I found out the Rail King Pennsylvania Mountain and an early Rail King Berkshire did not have any battery in the tender so no BCR needed.

Went to my LHS and found out they didn't stock BCRs - so I'm ordering them from J&W electronics on line.  My Proto 2 engines have NiCad 2.4v batteries according to the Operator's Manual.  J&W's website says that the BCR2 is for Proto 2 engines with 3 volt systems.  

Am I ok in ordering the BCR2 for my Proto 2 engines? (only asking this because I noticed a discrepancy when I read 2.4v in operator's manual and 3v on website).

They work fine in Ps2 units also. PS2 does not have the chip scramble problem but it will not run in conventional without a good charged working battery or BCR. Make sure you get the right version for your engine.

 

Dale H