After collecting, planning, moving and delaying for 45 years, the dream layout is going up, albeit slowly. But I started. Using L-girder system and that part is complete. Ready to place joists. Plan cookie cutter method with 1/2" plywood, 3/4" foam (can't find homasote in my area in TN, anyway )and cork roadbed. My question for the experts is what joist (and riser) span should be sufficient. 18", 15", 12"?? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
Bucky
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1x2 T's and lauan from Lowes built in a ladder configuration is all you need these days.
No need for road bed any more if using Gargraves, it's high enough.
Smyrna, TN.
After collecting, planning, moving and delaying for 45 years, the dream layout is going up, albeit slowly. But I started. Using L-girder system and that part is complete. Ready to place joists. Plan cookie cutter method with 1/2" plywood, 3/4" foam (can't find homasote in my area in TN, anyway )and cork roadbed. My question for the experts is what joist (and riser) span should be sufficient. 18", 15", 12"?? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks.
Bucky
I went 16" average on mine, but I used 3/4" plywood for my sub road bed and then 1/2" homosote on top of that. Even if you set out to go a given distance that may change if you decide you want a valley, trestle or body of water somewhere on the layout. I put one screw up through the L girder through the joist, one in the front and one in the back, if you want to move a joist just remove the screws and slide out the joist. Also with L girders and joist there's no reason to cover the joist system entirely with plywood and foam or homosote. You can simply lay the sub roadbed over the joist, using risers to adjust the sub road bed up for varying elevations.
Hopefully this pic will help with my post above.
Thanks for the comments! Especially the picture Nicko.
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