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Remove the shell     Take the screws on the bottom of the trucks out and remove the motors    Just cut the wires    When you remove the motors there are two plates that you need to take off the bottom of each motor  Thhese plates are what the screws on the bottom of the motors screw into   Position them over the frame and screw them in from the bottom  You can strip the electronics out.     Do you want lights on your dummy?

@bluelinec4 posted:

Remove the shell     Take the screws on the bottom of the trucks out and remove the motors    Just cut the wires    When you remove the motors there are two plates that you need to take off the bottom of each motor  Thhese plates are what the screws on the bottom of the motors screw into   Position them over the frame and screw them in from the bottom  You can strip the electronics out.     Do you want lights on your dummy?

I wouldn't mind knowing myself how you keep the lights active Ben.

Thanks,

John

Well, you could just remove the motors and leave the electronics to run the lights.  If not, LED's are DC, track volts AC so you will need a rectifier, filter, and regulator.  Regulator to maintain LED 5 volts whether you use conventional control or a form of DCC.  If you use a large enough filter it will give a constant lighting effect for a conventional system.

@John H posted:

Protosound lights aren't led. Headlights are 1.5 volt incandescent.

It does depend on the specific engine.  The connectors on the bottom of the P/S board are 1.5V output, but some diesels also have an add-on board that switches 6V bulbs using the 1.5V board output as a trigger.  Here's one I took out for an upgrade.  This one was real fancy, It had a pretty decent MARS simulator output as well.  The 6V constant outputs were for stuff like cab lights, number boards, and markers.

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