Could Lionel License The Construction And Sale Of A Full Complement Of Super "O" Track To Another Manufacturer?

Sounds to me that the copper center rail of Super O track is both a major disadvantage and advantage. A disadvantage is its cost, an advantage is its superior conductivity, which might have great appeal. Do you agree?

Another advantage is it's very nice appearance.

If new Super O was resurrected, it would be great if transition tracks were made, so Super O could be connected to existing layouts with  O Gauge, 027, etc., track. That way, Super O could be added to our already existing layouts. Could that be done?

My guess is that if major manufacturers would not make such transition tracks, then clever, highly skilled OGR Forum members could create them and maybe have a nice side business. Super O lovers would pay a pretty penny for such transition tracks so they could add Super O track to their existing layouts. 

If such transition tracks are pragmatic (and they might not be), they could be very useful now in order to add existing used Super O track to existing layouts with different track.

Arnold

superwarp1 posted:

Super O Bob posted:

L.I.TRAIN posted:

 The blackened middle rail of these two is much less destructive the the pick up rollers than Super-O was/is

Super o doesnt damage rollers.

Only badly formed rollers from the 50's.  I would love to see it SuperO come back but sadly since my layout is already built it's too late for me.

I would be awesome though, different length straight sections, different radius curves.  Switches that look like Ross or AtlasO and didn't melt when they fail.

One thing that would be a plus, since MTH and AtlasO track is hardly ever in stock, Lionel or who ever could make a killing if they could get it on store shelves.

I have a locomotive, tender, and a few cars made in the late 50s-60s whose rollers are worn due to many hours of use on Super "0" track.  My dad bought one set in 1961 and a handful of extra cars that he ran on a small Super "O" track layout.  All the units with rollers he ran at the time have varying degrees of Super "O"  "grooveage" with the locomotive and tender having the most.  After very many hours of constant usage, that layout was later damaged and never used again.  When I got interested in trains a few years later, my dad bought me quite a few additional cars which I ran on O27 track exclusively in the late 60s & 70s.  None of the units I used have any "grooveage".  It's very easy to see "grooveage" on our 233 Locomotive, 233W Tender, 6434 Poultry Dispatch, 6517 Bay Window, and 6822 Searchlight Car.

None of the rollers appear to be "badly formed", and they continue to work fine using Lionel O27, FasTrack, K-Line Super "K", and K-Line SuperSnap track.  I doubt the average person would NOT classify the Super "O" "grooveage" on the units I mentioned as damage.  I fail to understand why anybody would deny the thin rail and/or buss connectors on Super "O" track causes it.  I don't have anything to gain from reporting it, and I doubt others who've experienced the same thing with Super "O" track don't have anything to gain either---other than replacement rollers.  Is that a potentially untapped, huge, money-making market?.......selling unnecessarily replaced rollers on ebay?

I like the look of Super "O" track and FasTrack.  However the look of both when using trestle sets doesn't appear to be realistic.  With Super "O", the ties appear to be hanging.   Incredibly, the ballast on FasTrack seems inanely glued to the rails???

"New tooling is expensive so either a company or a person with very deep pockets need to be involved and in the end how much would it cost to the hobbiest for the track. If too expensive it could kill the whole project." 

I'd be surprised if the tooling for Super-Snap track has been destroyed. It has been produced a lot more recently than Super-O. The 2 brands are nearly identical, but Super-Snap was produced in many different dimensions--I think as wide as 96" curves, as well as extra-long straights and O-72 switches. 

Super-O curve

I had two postwar locomotives growing up, and they were run a significant amount, with all running on Super "O" track.  The No. 2332 GG-1 definitely has some grooves on the rollers.   I don't recall the steamer that came with the Super "O" track as having any groves, but would have to check.  I honestly never paid any attention to the groves other than noticing them, and I still run both engines with the original rollers.

I also haven't paid any attention to the difficulty or cost of replacing rollers, but grooves did occur in my GG-1.  It's still my favorite electric locomotive though! 

 It would be interesting to know what that cost would be for replacing rollers.  Does anyone know the likely cost to replace two rollers?

I have no groved rollers.  Beenvrunning on it since 1967.  Arching on dirty track is what groves rollers.

Im in traffic.  Cant text.  Arcing sparks take a nibble of the rollers witg each spark.  Tenders when whistles arc on dirty track. 

Copper is much softer than steel... 

I have high milage engines with copper on the roller.  Ill take pics.  O gauge track eats rollers if dirty.

U just cant cut hardend steel with soft copper!

Im driving to lhs to get my naiagra

K-Line SuperSnap curve, straight, switch, bumper, and conversion tracks have all been reissued in recent years under the name "O-Line Reproductions".

BlueComet400 posted:

...I'd be surprised if the tooling for Super-Snap track has been destroyed. It has been produced a lot more recently than Super-O. The 2 brands are nearly identical, but Super-Snap was produced in many different dimensions--I think as wide as 96" curves, as well as extra-long straights and O-72 switches. 

 

 

Blue Comet 400,

That is a very attractive track, and Lionel may own the tooling. (Do you think Lionel does?)

Their is admittedly a nostalgic attraction to Super "0" track for many of us.  But having replaced my Super "O" layout with similar GarGraves track, the appearance is very different.  On a large layout, the copper center rail virtually disappears from view - likely the intentional design characteristic, which is enhanced by its coloration, low profile, and, in all likelihood the shape of the non rectangular ties. That virtual "disappearance" didn't happen at all with the GarGraves track, although I believe my GG layout was the quietest layout that I ever built.  For me, Super "O" much more closely resembled prototypical two rail track.  

But the Super Snap track looks very nice.

Considering all of the options that are available, I don't think there would be much of a market for Super O.  IMO, the segment of the market that would buy Super O is far smaller than the tinplate market, and we've all seen what is happening there.

Super O Bob posted:

I have no groved rollers.  Beenvrunning on it since 1967.  Arching on dirty track is what groves rollers

The arcing on dirty track is precisely what I learned as an adult.  As a child I virtually never cleaned my Super "O" layout because conductivity issues were never an issue because of the copper center rail.

For me, the grooves were a non-issue, and they still are.  But, the issue seems to be important to some.  I would just clean the track now since, as an adult, I understand the importance.

Grampstrains posted:

There is still plenty of "Super "O" still out there so why make more?  Even if they did, the first thing posted on  this forum would be to complain about the price.

You make a good point there about potential price. The various track systems that are out there now aren't exactly cheap, and I expect that a resurrected Super-O, given its relatively limited market potential in the grand scheme of things, would be a pricey little bugger. 

You are very lucky for not having any "groved" rollers, Super O Bob.  I don't know what "arching" is, but if you mean "arcing", your statement might be correct.  However it has no bearing on the trains in my collection.  My dad's layout was used heavily, and I remember him wiping it often.  I don't think he soldered nor glued the bus connectors to the track.  If that caused any arcing, then that's the fault of the Super "O" design.  I certainly never saw any Lionel instructions nor tips about securing the bus connector permanently to the track to prevent arcing which may have contributed to the problem.  I think the main contributor was the slight bump the rollers got each time they came across the two small spaces between the beginning and the end of each bus connector and the blades from each track.

Perhaps you've filled in the small spaces on either side of the bus connectors, or you don't run the same few trains over and over as my dad did.  Just because you haven't had the problem, doesn't mean others haven't had it.

RE: Availability of Super O.

Granted, not the only source but a quick check on Ebay shows there's plenty listed for sale! I'm not making any judgments on price (frankly I'm not clued in enough to know) but if you want Super O it's a click away.

Johnstrains,

Thanks!  If you don't mind a few more clicks, could you post examples of the pricing for 72" radius curves and switches?  That's great news to hear that they are readily available, as I have 1/2 of the tables built for a new layout in a second room in the basement where space has been made available to me.  Since my other layout is now limited to O - 31track to avoid the duck-unders, I want to use 0-72 radius curves to run my larger equipment.  That Williams scale GS-4 is stunning, as is the Williams scale N&W No. 611!

The old wives tail of superO track causing grooves in rollers has been around for many years. There is no proof of superO track causing this condition. I have been running trains on super0 and have never seen this condition. 

Filthy, dirty track arcing is what causes wear on rollers not superO. Does not happen, never did happen and never will happen. It was only a rumor. 

Dave

I have planned to use Super O on a new layout with Ross Switches. I wonder if Ross could make Super O switches. For double the price I would probably still consider it. I have plenty of track. The switches have always been the problem. Nothing, and I repeat, nothing looks as good as Super O. Replace the rollers- Every time I send an engine to Len for restoration he replace the rollers and arms.

SuperO and K-Line super snap track look nothing alike. The super snap is much larger in size then superO. 

Maybe the tooling could be used to make superO, but I doubt it.

Dave

when atlas O track was designed and made in the late 1990's, 2 of the goals of the atlas people was to make a track line that used rails  like prewar t-rail track and look as good as super -o does . i believe they  did it. ....its the last track system i will ever buy .

Wow, this thread had some legs, which indicates real interest.

- The K-Line Snap-Track was not something that I cared for at all. Seems it was as tall and ridiculous-looking as the traditional Lionel 0-31 and Menard's track.  The 0-27 track always looked better; too bad it wasn't produced in 0-72 radius.

- Super-O was certainly a step forward, too late. The rail/blade support hump in the ties, however, always stood out in a bad way. It would have to be engineered away. People complain about the center blade wearing rollers. Have we seen that with MTH Scale-Trax and its only slightly thicker blade? Also, if the blade on Super-O was copper, it would not have worn down the much harder Lionel rollers. Was it copper? Bronze is very hard. Was it bronze? (I've never messed with any Super-O.)

With GG and Ross I see no need for Super-O, though I do like the more subtle color of Super-O rails, as compared with the 50's chrome bumper effect of the other two.    

Super O Bob posted:

I have no groved rollers.  Beenvrunning on it since 1967.  Arching on dirty track is what groves rollers.

 

Im in traffic.  Cant text.  Arcing sparks take a nibble of the rollers witg each spark.  Tenders when whistles arc on dirty track. 

Copper is much softer than steel... 

 

I have high milage engines with copper on the roller.  Ill take pics.  O gauge track eats rollers if dirty.

 

U just cant cut hardend steel with soft copper!

 

Im driving to lhs to get my naiagra

Ok.  Finally home from the lhs with my 6013...  i couldnt type and drive so i am behind in response...

This is one of my favorite subjects...  roller wear...  i really dont care if any of you believe me.  I will continue running on super o.

I have had NO ROLLER WEAR on any of my PWC, pw original, MPC, or modern scale engines and have operated on super o extensively. 

As a kid, i would run for 1 to 2 hours every day from about 1967 to 1983 on two different super o layouts on conventional voltages.  First a 5x9ft and then a 16x32ft... stopping in '83 when i went to college.  Then I built my big super o layout and ran about the same amount from about 2003 to 2011 all solidly at full power 18v tmcc&legacy.  

I would have train parties where friends engines and my engines would run for hours straight usually starting at 4pm and ending at about 1am to 2am (8 to 9hrs straight).  We hosted alot of running parties in those 8 years.  Many on this forum will tell you they didnt damage any rollers on their engines running at my house.  We always joked about roller wear at the parties.  We would have about 8 to 10 parties a year.

From 2013 till now i have a 50ft x 23ft back room super o layout 18v legacy only which i do not run enough, probably only 2 to 3hrs a week.

I have never had any roller pickup notched or warn by the super o track.  Keep in mind, steel material rollers are 3 to 4 times harder than the copper material depending on grades, and MECHANICALLY you can roll all day on soft copper and not cut STEEL.

FREE ROLLING Roller wear is from arcing (sparking) of the rollers operating on dirty track.  This can happen on any track type if dirty.  In my years collecting postwar,  i have seen a few rollers clearly notched that matches the exactly the rail head shape and widgh of tubular track.  Some kid never cleaned the track and ran alot while pickup rollers and whistle tender rollers sparked away.  It is the sparking that pits and cuts the rollers irregardless of track type.

This is dirty super o and i would never run on track looking like this... rails are black with wheel grime and center rail is badly tarnished.

This is clean super o.  I simply use 3m abrasive pad and wipe the track after about 2 weeks or so of operation.  Clean track top of railhead is shiny.  You can also see the shiny glint on the copper.  Keep your track clean.  Use track cleaning car if you are lazy.  I just wipe with scotchbrite abrasive pads (the dark oxide ones).  I can post a pic.  Its so easy and i can wipe one 275ft loop in about 5min or less. Even the nastiest super o can easily have shiny railheads and top of center rail with these pads without alot of effort...

There is no sparking on clean track.  So no roller wear.  Proof the super o track alone doesnt cut rollers are all my engines and all my friends engines on my track.  Infact i can find some rollers that have clear copper residue on rolling surfaces showing the copper is softer than steel and moves from rail to roller.

 Cleaning your track is in every manual on model trains...  this electrical performance is why.

So thats it.  Ripley's.

D500 posted:

Wow, this thread had some legs, which indicates real interest.

 

Yeah, great thread. Learning a lot.  

phrankenstign posted:

I don't think he soldered nor glued the bus connectors to the track.  If that caused any arcing, then that's the fault of the Super "O" design.  I certainly never saw any Lionel instructions nor tips about securing the bus connector permanently to the track to prevent arcing which may have contributed to the problem.  I think the main contributor was the slight bump the rollers got each time they came across the two small spaces between the beginning and the end of each bus connector and the blades.

Hi phrank...  no i have never soldered the bus clips...  besides, if you have a bump, you dont have it right.

Repro bus clips WILL NEVER FIT FLUSH with the top of center rail.   Use only the original bus clips.  The notches may need filing slightly to clean up the cuts so the bus fits FLUSH.  Sometimes the center rail slips to one end or another creating a fit problem of bus clip.  You grab it with a needlenose and move it.  The center rail is just staked to the ties.  It can move legthwise a little.  So that is something to help get the bus clip fit just right.  There is no noise or bumps when its bus clip fits flush.

As for cleaning, its important to get the grime off the rails.  Wheel grime from oiling axles etc...  so use abrasive pad to strip the grime...

 This is a video of old layout 4 loops of track, all super o, each about 200ft long.  No bus clips ever came loose, they are not soldered.

https://youtu.be/O9yUJojQhKw

 Lots of extreme operation...

 https://youtu.be/6RlYLTU5gvM

Super O Bob said:

"Some kid never cleaned the track and ran alot while pickup rollers and whistle tender rollers sparked away.  It is the sparking that pits and cuts the rollers irregardless of track type."

There is no question that as a 9 - X year old young boy, that I ran my two locos on a 90 square foot Super "O" layout without proper cleaning of the track.  For one thing, the placement of the layout required that you walk on the train table to get to the back 12'.  Since the trains ran flawlessly on the track, I was no wiser other than the "clean your track regularly" mantra.  And, the sparking was normal operation to our way of thinking.  I certainly would be more vigilant now, and, I certainly wouldn't construct a train table that required walking on to clean and service the track.

I never used the Super O track my dad had.  In fact, as a teenager I always wondered how he powered the track.  I was unaware of the clip and lockon that were used.  I do know my dad didn't use any repro ones for two reasons:  I don't think anybody was making knockoffs back then.  Each track always came with a clip.  There was no need to buy more.

This being a physical world, nothing is perfect.  Some bus connectors were tighter than others.  It's possible the ones that weren't as snug as the others may have slowly been pushed toward one side creating a bigger gap on the other side.  I don't know if that contributed to the problem, but the wear did occur over the long run---whatever the cause(s).

The cost of replacing rollers doesn't matter to me at all.  Despite the grooves on the rollers of the trains I mentioned, none of them have failed to work over the years.  I've used Lionel O27 & FasTrack, and K-Line O Super "K" & SuperSnap.  The center rail on all three is the same as the outer rails, so the wear is even across the rollers.  I rotate through all of the trains from year to year.  (I don't have a permanent O gauge layout.)  The trains aren't subjected to the same intense usage my dad subjected them to in the early 60s.

Dennis GS-4 N & W No. 611 posted:

Super O Bob said:

"Some kid never cleaned the track and ran alot while pickup rollers and whistle tender rollers sparked away.  It is the sparking that pits and cuts the rollers irregardless of track type."

There is no question that as a 9 - X year old young boy, that I ran my two locos on a 90 square foot Super "O" layout without proper cleaning of the track.  For one thing, the placement of the layout required that you walk on the train table to get to the back 12'.  Since the trains ran flawlessly on the track, I was no wiser other than the "clean your track regularly" mantra.  And, the sparking was normal operation to our way of thinking.  I certainly would be more vigilant now, and, I certainly wouldn't construct a train table that required walking on to clean and service the track.

Yea, track maintenance is NOT just for the 1/48th scale men in hardhats!  I always design for accessability...  if you cant, there are those diecast track cleaning cars that secure the abrasive pads that you can run around.  They do ok...

phrankenstign posted:

I never used the Super O track my dad had.  In fact, as a teenager I always wondered how he powered the track.  I was unaware of the clip and lockon that were used.  I do know my dad didn't use any repro ones for two reasons:  I don't think anybody was making knockoffs back then.  Each track always came with a clip.  There was no need to buy more.

This being a physical world, nothing is perfect.  Some bus connectors were tighter than others.  It's possible the ones that weren't as snug as the others may have slowly been pushed toward one side creating a bigger gap on the other side.  I don't know if that contributed to the problem, but the wear did occur over the long run---whatever the cause(s).

The cost of replacing rollers doesn't matter to me at all.  Despite the grooves on the rollers of the trains I mentioned, none of them have failed to work over the years.  I've used Lionel O27 & FasTrack, and K-Line O Super "K" & SuperSnap.  The center rail on all three is the same as the outer rails, so the wear is even across the rollers.  I rotate through all of the trains from year to year.  (I don't have a permanent O gauge layout.)  The trains aren't subjected to the same intense usage my dad subjected them to in the early 60s.

Phrank...  yea if you see a larger gap on either side of the bus clip, the center rail is slightly out of position.  Just grab with a needlenose and slide the rail to fill gap.  It will also fix the snug ones you mentioned.

The bus clips should be flush, then wipe your finger across the top and as you pass from rail to bus back to center rail, it should feel smooth.

The art of sucessful bending the track, you get alot of experience w/dremel cutting new notches and adjusting for proper fit of bus clips.  

I was really meticulous with shimming my track and there was no lumps bumps or anything.  Used alot of 1/64 plywood shims and a bubblelevel to make everything perfectly level.

Depending on how nuts you want to be...  super o rails also have a reflex bent on one end (up and down).  This was to capture the rail better to the clips so they stay put after years of reassembly with other tracks.  To make things SMOOTHER i would take each piece of track to a small vice and take this bend out.    It was tedius but my railhead is perfectly smooth.

Arnold D. Cribari posted:

 

...If new Super O was resurrected, it would be great if transition tracks were made, so Super O could be connected to existing layouts with  O Gauge, 027, etc., track. That way, Super O could be added to our already existing layouts. Could that be done?

If such transition tracks are pragmatic (and they might not be), they could be very useful now in order to add existing used Super O track to existing layouts with different track...

Arnold

Arnold,

Transition tracks would be a nice addition if economically feasible.  My recollection is that Lionel made transition tracks for at least O gauge track during part of the Postwar era (as defined by Dr. Greenberg).

You guys have convinced me to clean my O Gauge tubular track and 022 switches, which I will do tomorrow, for the 1st time in over 10 years. LOL, Arnold

I have used different kinds of track for many years from 0-27 to Super 0 as well as K-line, Atlas, Ross, and Gargraves ... you name it.  I don't "clean" my track because I found out years ago that a spray of electronic cleaner properly spaced on the track keeps the trains running and the track "clean".  I don't know why it works so well but it does and without gunk building up on the wheels or rollers.  I know .... hard to believe but just try it, you may just like it!  By the way, I love the look of Super 0 track and like several of you, had it been available in broad radius curves (commercially), I would have probably gone that route.

Alan

I would switch to Super O in a minute if made on the on the same plan as Fastrak or Atlas O. I used Super O from 1974 to 1985. I started buying it in 1966. Took a while to collect all that I needed. I am using Atlas O right now.

This is what i use to get the grime off my rails and make them shine (i only do it to the TOP of the rail heads.

I just stay on top of it and clean after a few weeks of operation, keep rails shiny.

If you have hard to reach areas or are lazy, use this...

Doing it by hand is easier and faster and better.  Put 3 fingers on pad holding to the railhead and walk along the layout.  It goes fast.

Dennis GS-4 N & W No. 611 posted:

Arnold D. Cribari posted:

 

...If new Super O was resurrected, it would be great if transition tracks were made, so Super O could be connected to existing layouts with  O Gauge, 027, etc., track. That way, Super O could be added to our already existing layouts. Could that be done?

If such transition tracks are pragmatic (and they might not be), they could be very useful now in order to add existing used Super O track to existing layouts with different track...

Arnold

Arnold,

Transition tracks would be a nice addition if economically feasible.  My recollection is that Lionel made transition tracks for at least O gauge track during part of the Postwar era (as defined by Dr. Greenberg).

This Super O was done with adaptors in mind...

So Actually you are good to go right now.  Super O was made with a series of pins to allow you to connect to ogauge.  The railheads are close to same height.  I also used the SO to Ogauge pins to run my super o up to a 313 bascule bridge with no issues...

There is o27 adaptor pins too but track needs a shimming...

This is what they made to get super o to attach to EXISTING o gauge and o27 switches and track.  You can see by picture which is which and the number.

O27 adaptors on top, o gauge on bottom.  I used these to integrate postwar acessories.  You could reuse all your ogauge remote switches with super o if you wanted.  The circle L boys designed it that way from the beginning.

OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:

I have used different kinds of track for many years from 0-27 to Super 0 as well as K-line, Atlas, Ross, and Gargraves ... you name it.  I don't "clean" my track because I found out years ago that a spray of electronic cleaner properly spaced on the track keeps the trains running and the track "clean".  I don't know why it works so well but it does and without gunk building up on the wheels or rollers.  I know .... hard to believe but just try it, you may just like it!  By the way, I love the look of Super 0 track and like several of you, had it been available in broad radius curves (commercially), I would have probably gone that route.

Alan

Alan,

Thanks for posting.  Is there a brand, or brands, of electronic cleaner that you could recommend?  Also, any rough estimation as to the "spacing" that you have found to be effective.  This seems to be an excellent method for track cleaning.

In this regard, I am also taking notes as to the other methods suggested for track cleaning, including the excellent posts by Super O Bob.

Super O Bob said:

"Super O was made with a series of pins to allow you to connect to ogauge.  The railheads are close to same height."

Great reminder!  I even have some of those pins, and, had totally forgotten. 

OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:

. hard to believe but just try it, you may just like it!  

Alan

Thanks a ton Alan...  i will try that...  great suggestion!

Dennis GS-4 N & W No. 611 posted:

Super O Bob said:

"Super O was made with a series of pins to allow you to connect to ogauge.  The railheads are close to same height."

Great reminder!  I even have some of those pins, and, had totally forgotten. 

I was taking pictures and reposting...  see the envelopes.  I think there are also insulated versions i may have but didnt take picks...

Here is illustration for you...

david1 posted:

I would love to see superO made again but Lionel told me a few years ago that most of the tooling for superO has either been lost or destroyed. If that is true then forget Lionel ever doing it. 

If just certain pcs could be made like 30"straights, wider radius curves and better switches I think that could be a start. 

New tooling is expensive so either a company or a person with very deep pockets need to be involved and in the end how much would it cost to the hobbiest for the track. If too expensive it could kill the whole project. 

With all the negatives I still think it would be a great track system to do again. Let's hope!!!!!!!!!

Dave

Maybe somebody like John Menard could make this happen. Just saying!

Brad

Even if Ross were to use Super O rails with their wooden ties it would not be the end of the world.

petrifiedagg posted:

I have planned to use Super O on a new layout with Ross Switches. I wonder if Ross could make Super O switches. For double the price I would probably still consider it. I have plenty of track. The switches have always been the problem. Nothing, and I repeat, nothing looks as good as Super O. Replace the rollers- Every time I send an engine to Len for restoration he replace the rollers and arms.

Petrified-

You could easily use lionel o gauge o72" switches with the super o wide radius track.  If u wanted to make it look nice you could airbrush the switch housings and bases in brown to match super o.  Just mask the rails.

Check out the adaptor pins for super o to o gauge, in previous posts.  Super o and o gauge have about the same height to railhead.

So a despirate man could easily put o72 switches into a wide radius super o layout.

petrifiedagg posted:

Even if Ross were to use Super O rails with their wooden ties it would not be the end of the world.

Before i designed custom in CAD, i was thinking about taking ross switches and putting balsa wood ramps on top of ties to make it look like super o and paint brown.

But i decided to give the custom switch a try.

Super O Bob posted:

Dennis GS-4 N & W No. 611 posted:

Arnold D. Cribari posted:

 

...If new Super O was resurrected, it would be great if transition tracks were made, so Super O could be connected to existing layouts with  O Gauge, 027, etc., track. That way, Super O could be added to our already existing layouts. Could that be done?

If such transition tracks are pragmatic (and they might not be), they could be very useful now in order to add existing used Super O track to existing layouts with different track...

Arnold

Arnold,

Transition tracks would be a nice addition if economically feasible.  My recollection is that Lionel made transition tracks for at least O gauge track during part of the Postwar era (as defined by Dr. Greenberg).

This Super O was done with adaptors in mind...

So Actually you are good to go right now.  Super O was made with a series of pins to allow you to connect to ogauge.  The railheads are close to same height.  I also used the SO to Ogauge pins to run my super o up to a 313 bascule bridge with no issues...

There is o27 adaptor pins too but track needs a shimming...

This is what they made to get super o to attach to EXISTING o gauge and o27 switches and track.  You can see by picture which is which and the number.

O27 adaptors on top, o gauge on bottom.  I used these to integrate postwar acessories.  You could reuse all your ogauge remote switches with super o if you wanted.  The circle L boys designed it that way from the beginning.

Very helpful, Super O Bob. Thank you! My O22 switches look very toy like, but I absolutely love everything about them. Great to know that you can add Super O to an O Gauge layout  and still use O22 switches. Arnold