crc cleaner

Mine is CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. It says its plastic safe but extremely flammable.

Just used a little of it on my 022 switches, which now fully close when switch is thrown. Seems to do the trick. Very important to use it sparingly and in well ventilated area. If possible, best to use it outside of the house.

CRC...  @ 25 -30 yrs ago I had a pinball machine the solenoid was sticking for the bell  so  using my right hand in the machine by the coin mech. and my left hand   putting the ball down the hole..

I kept spraying till the ding sounded better! ......that is until  IT MADE ONE LOUD BANG  and WHOLE bottom of the machine

blew off !! but the good news is the machine and the bell worked fine after that! lol lol

me never used the stuff again... I learned take the part off and clean it by its self  NO electrical power  till DRY...!

Given the above comments, is there any safe place to use it? Why is it sold at all?

Mark

How much are you using?

Having used this on one huge public display, I would spray it on the rag, and wipe until the fresh spot on the rag wiped clean.  If you are soaking your rag or worse, spraying it directly on your track you may just find out it is flammable. 

Because it does an excellent job of cleaning electrical contact surfaces, especially in tight places where you might not be able to  physically or mechanically be able to reach in order to clean them.

Of course, this assumes that the user reads the directions and warning labels about how and when to use the product which, in this day and age, is probably not a great assumption. 

Ironlake2, thanks for the heads up to those that use this kind of stuff. Thank goodness you, your family and house are OK. That was a close call.

We have no idea what type of CRC the OP used.  He posted this 6 years ago.  He hasn't visited the forum in 2 years.  If you're going to post experiences with CRC, please tell us exactly which type of CRC you used.  CRC makes dozens of different cleaners.

Like Arnold, I use the QD cleaner.  It works great.  It is marked flammable so I take the appropriate precautions.  Some folks here (Alan Arnold, I believe) like using this type CRC but I haven't tried it yet.

This again...

I've been using it for years with no ill effects. As have many here (yes, I recall Alan's comments) based on the number of threads that are constantly popping up on track cleaning.

As suggested, I use it sparingly for track cleaning with excellent results.

In a bygone era, when automobile engines had distributors, I needed to keep a can in the trunk of my Rambler. Sometimes on stormy days, the engine wouldn't start. I'd pop the distributor cap off, spray in some CRC-556, and away we would go. That product somehow wicked moisture out of the way to prevent interfering with electrical conduction. I just had to throw that can away a year or so ago. I used it on finicky E-units and switch machines (among other things). Best advice: use sparingly.

  +1 for their QD electronics cleaner, as mentioned by Arnold.   The transformation of an old dirty O22's solenoid plunger's movement from gritty and wooden, to crisp and smooth from a good spray soaking, never ceases to amaze me.                

Admittedly, I'm easily entertained.  

Tom

I didn’t even notice I was reading a five year old post. It happens all the time. Move the date to the top where it belongs.

Consensus seems to be CRC QD Cleaner is good because it works very well on things like O22 switches, it does not damage plastics, and, most important, use it in well ventillated area and use it sparingly so we don't blow up the house.

What is best way to use it sparingly?

Can we spray a little on a tooth brush outside of house, bring the toothbrush into the basement (where the furnace is), and apply the CRC with the toothbrush on the switch track?

What do you think?

@galley_proof posted:

In a bygone era, when automobile engines had distributors, I needed to keep a can in the trunk of my Rambler. Sometimes on stormy days, the engine wouldn't start. I'd pop the distributor cap off, spray in some CRC-556, and away we would go. That product somehow wicked moisture out of the way to prevent interfering with electrical conduction. I just had to throw that can away a year or so ago. I used it on finicky E-units and switch machines (among other things). Best advice: use sparingly.

I also used it on the distributor cap of my Rambler.

Reactivating a five year old post on solvents brings up another discussion point. As a California resident I am too familiar with the impact of new regulations implemented in the last five years that impact what is on store shelves. One of three things have happened to these solvents. Some were compliant, like denatured alcohol, so they are sold unchanged. Many were not compliant and the manufacturer, or US distributor, decided to not sell them in California. That has happened to a lot of  brands. Some products were non compliant but reformulated to comply and are still sold but the can contents are different. These reformulated products are usually then sold nationwide, not just in California.

We need to be careful relying on 5 year old tests or product descriptions, there is a reasonable chance that the formulations sold today are different. It is best to get the current data from the manufacturers website if it is not all on the can label. These new requirement have impacted availability of even some mundane products like deoderants and house paint. Automotive Carbon Ceramic brakes are impacted by new copper limitations, so 2021 Camaro ZL-1's cannot be sold in California. There is one certain impact, the prices of what is on the store shelves go up.

I have been using CRC's QD solvent/cleaner for at least fifteen years (probably a lot longer) and have never had a problem with it.  I've used it when servicing all my engines, both post-war and modern era.  It is especially useful on balky E-units where the plunger sticks.  It also works extremely well when cleaning out the gunk in brush tubes and gear boxes and on 022 switches.  I usually use Q tips immersed in the stuff  for those purposes.  On occasion I have even used it as a track cleaner on a really grimy section of track.  I just spray it on a clean rag and then use elbow grease to complete the work.  I always let an hour or so elapse before running trains even though I'm positive it has completely evaporated long before that hour is up.   All of this work has been performed in my basement.  It really is a superb solvent and if used with just a wee bit of common sense will not blow your house up.  

As far as the cautionary statements about it being extremely flammable it should also be remembered that all alcohol products, 70% isopropyl, 91% isopropyl and denatured alcohol are also very flammable and all are used by many members of this forum to clean track in their basements, attics and garages.    Like I said, it just takes a little common sense.

Another vote for CRC's QD solvent/cleaner... an excellent contact cleaner for cars, computers and trains ...I've used it forever.

@Oman posted:

I also used it on the distributor cap of my Rambler.

Had one, too.  Wish that was the only issue I had with it.

Brendan

I'm using this stuff right now for cleaning track, but only when it's powered off.  I picked it based on a number of threads on polar and non-polar solvents, chart included, it comes in pretty high on the "good" side.

I used to use Isopropyl alcohol, I want to see if this stuff does a better job.  I spray it on a rag and then wipe the track with it.

It is very flammable, at least according to the label.  I'm thinking in the future for track that I can't reach I can use my track cleaning car and my battery powered Camelback locomotive, no track voltage should mean no sparks to light this stuff up, news at 11:00PM.

Anyone know what the difference between the blue can and red can is?

I know according to the polar attributes from the chart above that neither of those are as desirable as the CRC Contact Cleaner & Protectant that comes in the green can, at least for track cleaning.

I have had great success with this.

NON- FLAMMABLE!

@barrister.2u posted:

Given the above comments, is there any safe place to use it? Why is it sold at all?

Mark

Even on the can, it says to use in a well-vented area, That it is flammable.

I use it to clean E-Units outside. It does a good job when used properly.

Well, I guess they shouldn't sell rubbing alcohol either then as it is flammable. There are lots of items sold that are flammable, but you need to use them with care and common sense.

@Captain John posted:

I have had great success with this.

NON- FLAMMABLE!

I use that for cleaning all the grease out of motors and power trucks, but I don't think I'd use it for track.  Looking at the SDS for this stuff, it's pretty nasty, it's 80-100% tetrachloroethylene.  Check the SDS for that chemical and I'm not sure I want it in regular use around my layout.

I’m aware of that John. It is being used taking safe procedures.

When using anything flammable around on trains Common Sense should just Prevail. It's kind of funny 50 or 60 years ago the owner's manual of your new car told you how to adjust the valves today it tells you not to drink the battery fluid.

"Because it does an excellent job of cleaning electrical contact surfaces, especially in tight places"

Yes.  Great for that as is Deoxit D5.   For track though why would you need such powerful agents?

It seems the biggest electrical problem is where track sections JOIN.

Thank goodness I'm only running "toy trains" on my layout.

I'd hate to have to use / smell these heavy duty industrial cleaners.

Brakleen?? We had a mechanic get carried away with that stuff and everyone in the shop started coughing and had to walk outside.

I'm OK with my lousy 91% isopropyl. The track can only get as clean as its gonna get.

No cleaner is going to stop the electrolysis which is the main reason for dirty track anyway.

What track cleaning fluid can you use in a track cleaning car that won't catch fire ?  My insurance company will be real happy if i burn my train building down.

"Brakleen?? We had a mechanic get carried away with that stuff and everyone in the shop started coughing and had to walk outside."

Yes.  Brakleen, Gumout Carburetor Cleaner, Throttle Body Cleaner.  Bad to breathe.  Really bad.  Ask me how I know. 

Not to mention the ORIGINAL Goo Gone

John

@Craftech posted:

"Brakleen?? We had a mechanic get carried away with that stuff and everyone in the shop started coughing and had to walk outside."

Yes.  Brakleen, Gumout Carburetor Cleaner, Throttle Body Cleaner.  Bad to breathe.  Really bad.  Ask me how I know.

John

What...... no love for Hogwash?

@RickO posted:

What...... no love for Hogwash?

No only alcohol............................... (91% isopropyl)

@RickO posted:

I'm OK with my lousy 91% isopropyl. The track can only get as clean as its gonna get.

No cleaner is going to stop the electrolysis which is the main reason for dirty track anyway.

Actually, it's been pretty well demonstrated that the characteristics of Isopropyl Alcohol are low on the list for keeping track clean for any extended period of time.  Obviously, you don't have to believe this, and I used Isopropyl Alcohol for years until I saw the light.   Consider picking one of the non-polar cleaners for longer intervals between track cleaning.

I don't recommend gasoline, that would be somewhat dangerous.

Kerosene?  Interesting.  I can deal with the smell of that strange as it may sound.

@Craftech posted:

Kerosene?  Interesting.  I can deal with the smell of that strange as it may sound.

Really? I use to deliver that fuel oil and Gasoline and can honestly say that the smell sticks with you. But then again I could give Jimmy Durante a run for the money on nose size. Sometimes I dream of renting mine out for a ski jump.

What about denatured alcohol? I don't see that on the list.

@John H posted:

What about denatured alcohol? I don't see that on the list.

I was wondering about that myself as MTH recommends it for cleaning track and wheels.

Denatured alcohol does not bother traction tires.

@John H posted:

What about denatured alcohol? I don't see that on the list.

Ethanol (denatured alcohol) has a dielectric constant of 24, higher than Isopropyl Alcohol.  In the great list of recommended track cleaners, it's not recommended.

Denatured alcohol is NOT a non-polar solvent or: Marc learns more chemistry