" Dead tracks"

I assume you are using lionel fastrack. Bend your center pin inward on your track that will cure your problem and also put some feeders wires in  to help with power. 

I hate to be the devils advocate but bending the center pin may just be a temporary fix.I have had continuity problems years after installing it.You need feeds every 2 or 3 sections on fastrak.Nick

Hi Folks.....

Thanks for your quick responses to my post the last time. But unfortunately,  the issue still persist...........My engines are going dead on certain tracks . As of my last count I had 15 straights and 10 curves Lionel fast tracks that are "dead". I tried bending the center pin to fix the issue as suggested but didn't work. I recently replaced my TIU and bought a new MTH Z4000 to replace by my Lionel ZW75. Just eliminating all possible causes but to no avail. Could it be that, I'm not bending the middle pins well enough to attract more power to the tracks? I Just don't know what to do anymore. I just got into " railroading" not too long ago...about ( 8 years) so lack of experience or the know-how of all the intriguing and trouble shooting aspect of it may be lacking on my part and that makes it so frustrating. Please any suggestion will be highly welcomed.

thanks!!

How big is the layout? How may feeders do you have going to the track, what guage is the wire?

You said you tried all kinds of track cleaners, does this include an abrasive block like the one in Lionels track cleaning kit, or a Bright Boy abrasive block.

I find it necessary to occasionally "scrub" stubborn buildup from fastrack , then I wipe it with 91% isopropyl on a paper towel. I've found "bottled track cleaners" sold in hobby shops ineffective.

My experience with fastrack has been completely opposite of rockstars1989.

I have a 10' x 16' fastrack layout powered by 1 Lionel powerhouse 180 with 14 GA buss with 14GA feeders going to the track only about every 10'.

 My layout has just turned 12 years old.

I've never once had a continuity problem, even had a "mishap" involving water on a portion of the layout,  removed , dried and reinstalled the sections of track  which even included a turnout, bending the center pins as mentioned and its buisness as usual.

Do you have a voltmeter to test voltage and resistance in these areas.

Heres the instructional video from Mike Reagan regarding the center pins chessie was referring to if you haven't seen it already:

I would try & take sections of track out & test it off of the layout & see if there are any dead spots ,even though you didn't have any issues for three years some pins may have come loose ,engines don't stop completely unless there is no power to that section of track ,also did you check with a meter to see if there is any power the that section where the engines stop ? I don't know much myself ,but these are things i would try first ,they are simple to do .Let us know how you make out.

"Track Continuity Problems"

Hello: Jameston

You stated that you have over 300 of Lionel Fastrack (036) gauge tracks.
The (x2) outside rails of the track, each have (x1) long pin connection.
The (x1) center rail of track, has (x2) very short wiper plates.

Lionel Fastrack (036)

There are many different replies and options in this posting, concerning electrical track shortages.
It seems that the (x1) center rail of the track, that has (x2) very short pin connections,
is the biggest problem.
There are many replies stating to add many track feeders.
They are all (100%) correct.
The only way to get (100%) electrical conductivity to each track section,
is to add track feeders to each individual track section.
Of course that is totally "Not" feasible.

In a supplied video from Ricko,
it shows how to bend the (x2) very short wiper plates on the (x1) center rail of track.
As shown in the video, the short wiper plates can be slightly moved
and act as a spring type of wiper.
For the wiper to act in this type of procedure,
the wiper is made from "Spring Steel" and "Heat Treated" to required "Tension".

The (x2) outside rails of the track, each have (x1) long pin,
connecting to (x2) contact surfaces to the adjoining track.
The (x1) center rail of track, has (x2) very short wiper plates,
connecting to only (x1) small contact surface to the adjoining track.

Questions:
- Do you want to improve track voltage quality of the center rail ?
- Do you want to reduce metal oxidation at the center rail (x2) very short wiper plates ?

Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface.

"How To Improve Track Continuity"

Add "Electrical Contact" --> "Conductive Grease". (Not Oil).
- Has no contact voltage resistance
- Fills in all microscopic peaks and valleys on the wiper plates
- Protects the metal from oxidation

"Conductive Electrical Grease"
- There are many different manufactures
- Only use a high quality standard product

[ED-RRR]......

"Track Cleaning"

Since this subject was brought up in this posting,
I felt I should inform you why and how to clean any model railroad track.

As the Locomotive runs down the track, small tiny voltage arks will occur,
between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track.
This will cause "Metal Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface.

Track Cleaning Procedures:
(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions

(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Warning:
- The "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures, will leave behind very small scratches on the rails
- These tiny hidden scratches, will even cause more track oxidation (more surface area)
- These tiny hidden scratches, will be harder to clean

An "Abrasive" track cleaning tool looks like a rubber eraser.
This rubber eraser has small tiny metal particles inside.
Also comes in many different metal "Grit" sizes.

"Abrasive Track Cleaning"

(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
There are many different "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Using many different types of soft material products. (Cork, Felt).

"Non-Abrasive Track Cleaning"

(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions.
There are many different types of track cleaning chemicals.
The CRC 2-26
- When rubbed into the track, removes track "Oxidation"
- Increases electrical "Conductivity" between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track
- Reduces metal "Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

[ED-RRR]......

Once again it is Mike Reagan to the rescue.   

1. Mark the areas where the train loses power. 

2. Turn on track power.

3. Use voltmeter to find dead spots.

4. Turn off track power.

5. Solder jumpers from live area to dead area.

6. Repeat as necessary until you have no dead spots.

7. Drink beer and run trains.

"Repairing Track Continuity"

Procedure: (#1)
Credit: Arthur P. Bloom
Author: Arthur P. Bloom

1. Mark the areas where the train loses power.
2. Turn on track power.
3. Use voltmeter to find dead spots.
4. Turn off track power.
5. Solder jumpers from live area to dead area.
6. Repeat as necessary until you have no dead spots.

This is "Only" a "Repair Procedure" for a required non-powered track section.
This "Procedure" will "Not" totally eliminate any "Future" non-powered track sections.

Jameston stated that he has over 300 of Lionel Fastrack (036) gauge tracks.
I ED-RRR stated that the only way to get (100%) electrical conductivity to each track section,
is to add track feeders to each individual track section.
Of course that is totally "Not" feasible.

[ED-RRR]......

"Repairing Track Continuity"

Procedure: (#2)
Credit: Ricko
Author: Mike Reagan (Lionel Technician)

As I had previously stated, the center rail connections are made from "Spring Steel",
otherwise there would be no tension when mating the (x2) parts together.
Video above shows how the center rail actually springs back.
Here is an example of a similar product.

Spring Steel Slappers:

Spring steel is made from special metal properties, to allow for it to return to it's original location.
But spring steel has very poor electrical conductivity when compared to copper.
https://www.seastrom-mfg.com/p...perties_metallic.pdf
Copper = 100% electrical conductivity.
Spring Steel = 26% electrical conductivity.

Spring steel is a bare metal flat strip.
The center rail connections may also have more tendencies to corrosion. (Metal Oxidation).
Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface. (Less Electrical Conductivity).

Lionel Fastrack (036) center rail connections:
- Has only 26% electrical conductivity contacts.
- Environment will determine the rate of corrosion of the (x2) contacts.

What is conductive grease ?
- 846 carbon electrically conductive grease.
- Silicone grease for improving electrical connections.
- Has no contact voltage resistance.
- Fills in all microscopic peaks and valleys on the wiper plates.
- Protects the metal from corrosion. (Metal Oxidation).

Fact:
Fully packing the inside of the center rail, with (100%) conductive grease,
will make this center rail much more electrically conductive ?

[ED-RRR]......

Image: Conductive Grease

"Repairing Track Continuity"

Procedure: (#3)
Credit: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Author: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Lionel O-Gauge FasTrack:
http://paul.romsky.com/index_model_trains.htm

This procedure will insure (100%) track conductivity.
Mounted Internal Jumper Wires:

[ED-RRR]......

ED-RRR posted:

"Track Continuity Problems"

"How To Improve Track Continuity"

Add "Electrical Contact" --> "Conductive Grease". (Not Oil).
- Has no contact voltage resistance
- Fills in all microscopic peaks and valleys on the wiper plates
- Protects the metal from oxidation

"Conductive Electrical Grease"
- There are many different manufactures
- Only use a high quality standard product

[ED-RRR]......

Isn't this Non Conductive grease? The same as you use on a spark plug boot or a sealed connector gasket to keep moisture out yet not conduct electricity?

Without running feeders every 6 or 8 joints, I reckon all long tracks would have a problem.. 300 sections of track?   Amazing it ever worked!!! 

BobbyD posted:

-

[ED-RRR]......

Isn't this Non Conductive grease? The same as you use on a spark plug boot or a sealed connector gasket to keep moisture out yet not conduct electricity?

Yes, dielectric basically means an insulator  .. not a conductor

Once the connections are adjusted and cleaned for proper contact the application of the CRC , or the old standby No-Ox ID A, will help keep moisture out, and significantly reduce oxidation over long time periods .. and help to insure reliable running .

carsntrains posted:

Without running feeders every 6 or 8 joints, I reckon all long tracks would have a problem.. 300 sections of track?   Amazing it ever worked!!! 

Well, ( as I stated above) my layout has worked ( amazingly) for over 12 years now, with 14ga feeders spaced a whopping 10' apart ,soldered directly to the tabs under the track.

I would think after 12 years my trains would have stopped running. My voltage is the same on the output side of the TPC unit as it is on the track, anywhere on the layout.

I don't know what other folks have causing their fastrack issues, humidity, inadequate wiring/transformer, poor choice of cleaner etc?

Or am I the only one who happened to get 150' of good track?

RickO posted:

carsntrains posted:

Without running feeders every 6 or 8 joints, I reckon all long tracks would have a problem.. 300 sections of track?   Amazing it ever worked!!! 

Well, ( as I stated above) my layout has worked ( amazingly) for over 12 years now, with 14ga feeders spaced a whopping 10' apart ,soldered directly to the tabs under the track.

I would think after 12 years my trains would have stopped running. My voltage is the same on the output side of the TPC unit as it is on the track, anywhere on the layout.

I don't know what other folks have causing their fastrack issues, humidity, inadequate wiring/transformer, poor choice of cleaner etc?

Or am I the only one who happened to get 150' of good track?

Well Ricko some of my track  was bought used and some I have re configured a bunch of times so some may not have gone  together as tight as new.I still love my Fast Trak though.No regrets.Nick

RickO posted:

carsntrains posted:

Without running feeders every 6 or 8 joints, I reckon all long tracks would have a problem.. 300 sections of track?   Amazing it ever worked!!! 

Well, ( as I stated above) my layout has worked ( amazingly) for over 12 years now, with 14ga feeders spaced a whopping 10' apart ,soldered directly to the tabs under the track.

I would think after 12 years my trains would have stopped running. My voltage is the same on the output side of the TPC unit as it is on the track, anywhere on the layout.

I don't know what other folks have causing their fastrack issues, humidity, inadequate wiring/transformer, poor choice of cleaner etc?

Or am I the only one who happened to get 150' of good track?

Your lucky, I've had a lot of issues with dead tracks with similar wiring to yours. I have one right now and if your tracks screwed down with ballast added to the edges Mike Regans fix won't work. I just solder small jumpers track to track.

RickO posted:

carsntrains posted:

Without running feeders every 6 or 8 joints, I reckon all long tracks would have a problem.. 300 sections of track?   Amazing it ever worked!!! 

Well, ( as I stated above) my layout has worked ( amazingly) for over 12 years now, with 14ga feeders spaced a whopping 10' apart ,soldered directly to the tabs under the track.

I would think after 12 years my trains would have stopped running. My voltage is the same on the output side of the TPC unit as it is on the track, anywhere on the layout.

I don't know what other folks have causing their fastrack issues, humidity, inadequate wiring/transformer, poor choice of cleaner etc?

Or am I the only one who happened to get 150' of good track?

I'm with you on that one!   Mine is 6x12 with two loops all the way around, inner loop is the same as that 6x10 on Lionel's page of layout configuration.   I ran it for a long time (6 weeks) with just 3 feeder over the whole layout.  Now I have the two loops isolated with feeder on both loops every 6 or so pieces of track. Still lack a few.  I crimped on spade connectors like Lionel does and just slide them over the male spade made to the bottom of the track.   Memory says that it requires 2.8 mm spades.   I actually just unplug the jumpers under isolation tracks where I have spurs and plug a male spade into the female jumper.   14 gauge buss wire with 16 gauge feeders  (was going to use 16g buss and 18g feeders but oops lol) 

Jim

I thought he was talking about a Jerry Garcia Bootleg  

wvgca posted:

BobbyD posted:

[ED-RRR]......

Isn't this Non Conductive grease? The same as you use on a spark plug boot or a sealed connector gasket to keep moisture out yet not conduct electricity?

Yes, dielectric basically means an insulator  .. not a conductor

Once the connections are adjusted and cleaned for proper contact the application of the CRC , or the old standby No-Ox ID A, will help keep moisture out, and significantly reduce oxidation over long time periods .. and help to insure reliable running .

Would you go with conductive grease?

Correction Required: (My Posted Image)

Thanks for the required correction (Image) from BobbyD.

My apologies for posting an "Incorrect Image".
I accidentally picked the wrong web site image.
The image was to be an "Example" of "Conductive Grease".

Dielectric Grease: (Definition)
- Dielectric grease will help prevent corrosion.
- It does nothing to promote electrical conductivity.

Conductive Grease: (Definition)
- Has no contact voltage resistance
- Fills in all microscopic peaks and valleys on the wiper plates
- Protects the metal from oxidation

Conductive Grease: (Some Examples)
- Carbon Conductive Grease.
- Silver Conductive Grease.

Correction Required: Image

[ED-RRR]......

Maybe another way to look at this:

Both of my Lionel trolleys would stop at various places on my layout; tried cleaning tracks with ISO 91 to no avail.  Finally, with ISO 91 and cotton q-tips, cleaned pickup rollers on the trolleys, the copper bands that touch the axles, AND the ground wheels.  They were all filthy.  Trolleys run like new.

I am with Rick O, multiple feeds, 10-12 feet. No track issues.

Smoke fluid residue on the rails and wheel crud are the issues that I encounter.

I don't know how you can guess your way to solution without a multi-meter and a lighted car for a load.( to Mr. Bloom)

Check the wheels on the engine(s) that are the offenders. 3 years is long enough to get a nice crud build-up.

if you want to mess with the track, pull the center wire on a 1 3/8" or a 6-12060 Block 5", one on each loop. it's DCS.

let us know what you find after testing the areas.

"Track Cleaning Solution"

Almost every individual will have a different track cleaning procedure.
I have also seen individuals using WD-40 for track cleaning purposes.
WD-40 is not (100%) plastic safe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njXGD8JQsKc

There is a big advantage when using CRC 2-26 to clean the track.
- It is an "Electrical Grade" cleaning solution.
- Improves electrical track contact.
- Coats track to minimize oxidization.
- (100%) plastic safe. (ABS, NoryI, Lexan).
CRC 2-26: (Data Sheet)
https://www.soselectronic.pl/p.../142936/CRC_2-26.pdf

Here is an example that is "Non-Abrasive" using CRC 2-26, to clean the track.
Track cleaning that works

"Track Cleaning Rolling Stock"

Moonman posted:
Smoke fluid residue on the rails and wheel crud are the issues that I encounter.

[ED-RRR]......

ED-RRR posted:

"Track Cleaning"

Since this subject was brought up in this posting,
I felt I should inform you why and how to clean any model railroad track.

As the Locomotive runs down the track, small tiny voltage arks will occur,
between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track.
This will cause "Metal Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface.

Track Cleaning Procedures:
(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions

(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Warning:
- The "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures, will leave behind very small scratches on the rails
- These tiny hidden scratches, will even cause more track oxidation (more surface area)
- These tiny hidden scratches, will be harder to clean

An "Abrasive" track cleaning tool looks like a rubber eraser.
This rubber eraser has small tiny metal particles inside.
Also comes in many different metal "Grit" sizes.

"Abrasive Track Cleaning"

(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
There are many different "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Using many different types of soft material products. (Cork, Felt).

"Non-Abrasive Track Cleaning"
CMX-O Clean Machine

(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions.
There are many different types of track cleaning chemicals.
The CRC 2-26
- When rubbed into the track, removes track "Oxidation"
- Increases electrical "Conductivity" between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track
- Reduces metal "Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

The CRC 2-26

[ED-RRR]......

Ed,

That just made my eyes blur...I am quite happy with a pole sander and a piece of old towel doused with denatured alcohol. Every once in a while.

I will be finished while you are still playing with your gadgets.  Thanks for the dissertation.

The 2-26 is good for track pins/connectors when assembling. Restored a layout that was 13 years old, Real Trax. It worked well on the corroded track connectors.

The wheel crud is more from electrical current and the material used to make the wheels .

I guess there are advantages to tubular track.  

aussteve posted:

I guess there are advantages to tubular track.  

Tubular track needs to be cleaned and taken care of too!  Also requires buss wiring just like a solid rail or "fast" type track system (fastrack is more or less tubular track).  I usually bend the connectors on all of my tracks before I use them. 

On the corrosion subject.   I bought a Pennsylvania freight set a couple weeks ago from 2006.   Had never been taken out of the box.   Fastrack included.  I took the track out of the box and not a single sign of corrosion on any of it. Has anyone actually had a problem with the pins corroding?  I really don't think corrosion, dirty track, or dirty equipment has any part in the problem being discussed.   But without a  quick test with a meter or lit car, its all speculation. A whole lot of speculating at that! lol  I hope the track is already fixed, and its back to railroading and smiles! 

Jim

Moonman posted:

ED-RRR posted:

"Track Cleaning"

Since this subject was brought up in this posting,
I felt I should inform you why and how to clean any model railroad track.

As the Locomotive runs down the track, small tiny voltage arks will occur,
between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track.
This will cause "Metal Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface.

Track Cleaning Procedures:
(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions

(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Warning:
- The "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures, will leave behind very small scratches on the rails
- These tiny hidden scratches, will even cause more track oxidation (more surface area)
- These tiny hidden scratches, will be harder to clean

An "Abrasive" track cleaning tool looks like a rubber eraser.
This rubber eraser has small tiny metal particles inside.
Also comes in many different metal "Grit" sizes.

"Abrasive Track Cleaning"

(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
There are many different "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Using many different types of soft material products. (Cork, Felt).

"Non-Abrasive Track Cleaning"
CMX-O Clean Machine

(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions.
There are many different types of track cleaning chemicals.
The CRC 2-26
- When rubbed into the track, removes track "Oxidation"
- Increases electrical "Conductivity" between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track
- Reduces metal "Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

The CRC 2-26

[ED-RRR]......

Ed,

That just made my eyes blur...I am quite happy with a pole sander and a piece of old towel doused with denatured alcohol. Every once in a while.

I will be finished while you are still playing with your gadgets.  Thanks for the dissertation.

The 2-26 is good for track pins/connectors when assembling. Restored a layout that was 13 years old, Real Trax. It worked well on the corroded track connectors.

The wheel crud is more from electrical current and the material used to make the wheels .

 

Hello; Moonman

You use a pole sander and a piece of old towel doused with "Denatured Alcohol".
Every once in a while.

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)
Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit,
is ethanol that has additives to make it "poisonous",
bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption.
In some cases it is also dyed. Pyridine, methanol,[1] or copper sulphate[citation needed]
can be added to make denatured alcohol poisonous, and denatonium can be added to make it bitter.

[ED-RRR]......

aussteve posted:

I guess there are advantages to tubular track.  

Loose pins in tubular track that has been re-assembled repeatedly can be just as much of a problem.

I use denatured alcohol for my track, but a different kind for recreational consumption.

ED-RRR posted:

Moonman posted:

ED-RRR posted:

"Track Cleaning"

Since this subject was brought up in this posting,
I felt I should inform you why and how to clean any model railroad track.

As the Locomotive runs down the track, small tiny voltage arks will occur,
between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track.
This will cause "Metal Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

Metal Oxidation:
Most metals are oxidized by the oxygen in air.
This process is called corrosion.
Electrons leap from the metal to the oxygen molecules.
The negative oxygen ions which are thus formed penetrate into the metal,
causing the growth of an oxide surface.

Track Cleaning Procedures:
(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures
(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions

(#1) - There are "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Warning:
- The "Abrasive" track cleaning procedures, will leave behind very small scratches on the rails
- These tiny hidden scratches, will even cause more track oxidation (more surface area)
- These tiny hidden scratches, will be harder to clean

An "Abrasive" track cleaning tool looks like a rubber eraser.
This rubber eraser has small tiny metal particles inside.
Also comes in many different metal "Grit" sizes.

"Abrasive Track Cleaning"

(#2) - There are "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
There are many different "Non-Abrasive" track cleaning procedures.
Using many different types of soft material products. (Cork, Felt).

"Non-Abrasive Track Cleaning"
CMX-O Clean Machine

(#3) - There are "Chemical" track cleaning solutions.
There are many different types of track cleaning chemicals.
The CRC 2-26
- When rubbed into the track, removes track "Oxidation"
- Increases electrical "Conductivity" between the Locomotive powered wheels and the track
- Reduces metal "Oxidation" on the track = (Poor Electrical Conductivity).

The CRC 2-26

[ED-RRR]......

Ed,

That just made my eyes blur...I am quite happy with a pole sander and a piece of old towel doused with denatured alcohol. Every once in a while.

I will be finished while you are still playing with your gadgets.  Thanks for the dissertation.

The 2-26 is good for track pins/connectors when assembling. Restored a layout that was 13 years old, Real Trax. It worked well on the corroded track connectors.

The wheel crud is more from electrical current and the material used to make the wheels .

 

Hello; Moonman

You use a pole sander and a piece of old towel doused with "Denatured Alcohol".
Every once in a while.

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)
Denatured alcohol, also called methylated spirits or denatured rectified spirit,
is ethanol that has additives to make it "poisonous",
bad tasting, foul smelling or nauseating, to discourage recreational consumption.
In some cases it is also dyed. Pyridine, methanol,[1] or copper sulphate[citation needed]
can be added to make denatured alcohol poisonous, and denatonium can be added to make it bitter.

[ED-RRR]......

What's your point? Other than to derail a thread. The OP had some problems and you've prevented that individual from getting any help. Have you read the first post? Oh, you can't find it because of the spam that makes your finger sore scrolling for helpful information.

Fact:

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)

[ED-RRR]......

ED-RRR posted:

Fact:

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)

[ED-RRR]......

of course it's poisonous - that's so you have to buy Everclear 190 to drink- other wise they drank the hardware store stuff.

I understand that you are trying to be helpful - thanks, but, we typically don't need a full product education when you suggest a product that you like.

it is also polite to keep your images and such as attachments to make reading the entire thread simpler.

Welcome aboard!

So, why do think the train is stopping when it didn't for 3 three years prior?

Moonman posted:

ED-RRR posted:

Fact:

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)

[ED-RRR]......

of course it's poisonous - that's so you have to buy Everclear 190 to drink- other wise they drank the hardware store stuff.

I understand that you are trying to be helpful - thanks, but, we typically don't need a full product education when you suggest a product that you like.

it is also polite to keep your images and such as attachments to make reading the entire thread simpler.

Welcome aboard!

So, why do think the train is stopping when it didn't for 3 three years prior?

 

Of Course It's Poisonous.

[ED-RRR]......

ED-RRR posted:

Moonman posted:

ED-RRR posted:

Fact:

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)

[ED-RRR]......

of course it's poisonous - that's so you have to buy Everclear 190 to drink- other wise they drank the hardware store stuff.

I understand that you are trying to be helpful - thanks, but, we typically don't need a full product education when you suggest a product that you like.

it is also polite to keep your images and such as attachments to make reading the entire thread simpler.

Welcome aboard!

So, why do think the train is stopping when it didn't for 3 three years prior?

 

Of Course It's Poisonous.

[ED-RRR]......

it's just poisonous enough so if one attempts to ingest it, a violent , temporary illness sets in preventing one from drinking enough to cause death.

It has many uses, one just happens to be cleaning track.

The CRC 2-26 isn't a treat - don't you want to post the MSDS? It's fatal when ingested or inhaled. Wipe down 225' of RealTrax with it. The fumes were brutal. Good thing we didn't drink that. Cleaned the tracks real good and the connections are superb in a humid environment. Now, I just wipe the tracks with denatured alcohol on a cloth in a pole sander when I visit the museum.

Some stuff just works that is not nice to people. One just takes care when it's used.

However, I do use Superla10w for lube and a food grade synthetic grease used for commercial baking machines to maintain the trains and rolling stock.

Why do you think the train stops when it didn't for three years prior.

Why do you think the train stops when it didn't for three years prior.

Flawed design.

Dave Ripp. posted:

Why do you think the train stops when it didn't for three years prior.

Flawed design.

Train, track, or user?

Jim : )

carsntrains posted:

Dave Ripp. posted:

Why do you think the train stops when it didn't for three years prior.

Flawed design.

Train, track, or user?

Jim : )

LOL, I have the track and wish I didn't. If it's loose enough on the center rail that Lionel put out a video how to fix it it's got to be the track.