" Dead tracks"

ED-RRR posted:

Fact:

Denatured Alcohol:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Warning: Denatured Alcohol = (Poisonous)

[ED-RRR]......

That's correct. So don't drink it. Like any industrial solvent. It's great for cleaning track. I have used it for more than 30 years.

Rubbing alcohol is dangerous to drink as well.

Back to the conductivity issue by the original poster. I don't think your problems are associated with the kind of routine track cleaning that somehow got mixed into this thread.

I have had the same dead spots on my holiday carpet loops using FasTrack. In my case, removing the discolored corrosion helped, but using new tracks helped more. I too suspect the center-rail contact is the problem. I might try the conductive grease later this year.

Note, for permanent layouts, FasTrack installed when it is new won't be as much of a problem. That just requires routine cleaning with abrasive blocks and your choice of solvent cleaner, including denatured alcohol.

Dave Ripp. posted:

carsntrains posted:

Dave Ripp. posted:

Why do you think the train stops when it didn't for three years prior.

Flawed design.

Train, track, or user?

Jim : )

LOL, I have the track and wish I didn't. If it's loose enough on the center rail that Lionel put out a video how to fix it it's got to be the track.

Not necessarily the track. The are production variances in batches of product  today, model/toy train stuff is no exception. The misaligned center pin on 10" & 5" straights isn't on all FasTrack made. Think the lottery that you don't want to win.

The video does do one important thing first - get a multi-meter and test the trouble area to determine what is the problem.

Ive filled my small 12x6 table with Fastrack.  The only time I have any problems is when I've taken it apart to change things.   I don't have problems with that anymore.   I instinctively use my thumbs to put a little bend in all the center rail connectors as I put it together.    No problems.   

Carl is right.   What happened to the original poster and the problem?  Was it solved by the bending trick? Was it an isolation block unwired?   Was the track ever tested with a meter??

Jim

With all the potential health problems i wouldn't waste my time with rail-zip 2 ,or any other product like it ,there are many ways to have clean track without putting your health at risk ,it's just a hobby not worth the risk at least not for me ,just my two cents ,to each his own.

ED-RRR posted:

"Repairing Track Continuity"

Procedure: (#3)
Credit: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Author: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Lionel O-Gauge FasTrack:
http://paul.romsky.com/index_model_trains.htm

This procedure will insure (100%) track conductivity.
Mounted Internal Jumper Wires:

[ED-RRR]......

This is what we did at the TTOS mall layout.

RoyBoy posted:

ED-RRR posted:

"Repairing Track Continuity"

Procedure: (#3)
Credit: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Author: Paul A. Romsky Jr.
Lionel O-Gauge FasTrack:
http://paul.romsky.com/index_model_trains.htm

This procedure will insure (100%) track conductivity.
Mounted Internal Jumper Wires:

[ED-RRR]......

This is what we did at the TTOS mall layout.

A nice idea if your layout isn't complete.

I looked up wd 40 which i use sometimes & 91% alcohol ,as far as i can see not once did i see the word cancer in the use of wd 40,although it does have some warnings on it ,nothing i saw was as bad as rail zip 2.

There are some individuals having problems with Lionel FasTrack. The biggest trouble spot is when the center rails have no electrical contact where joined together. This might interest individuals that have any permanent mounted layout. To make sure that all center rail connections never have an electrical short, all locations should be repaired doing a modification. This would also apply to all switch tracks, with three different center track connections. You cannot directly solder the two center rail connections together, because the track rails may be constantly moving. Depending where you live, hotter weather will expand the metal track rails, while colder weather will shrink the metal track rails. This will cause the soldered joints to crack becoming faulty and causing electrical shorts. The best option for a fully functional layout, is to add a power feeder wire to each section of track. When it comes to switch tracks, there are three center rail connections. What if you do not have easy excess to some track sections and some switch tracks. NEWER ADVANCED PROCEDURE. Has anyone ever thought of using a special type of electrically conductive epoxy adhesive? This procedure will allow you to reach all un-reachable track sections. Can also be used to easily add jumper wires on switch tracks to improve electrical contacts. There are many different types like. Graphite Filled Electrically Conductive Adhesive Epoxy. Nickel Filled Electrically Conductive Adhesive Epoxy. Silver Coated/Nickel Filled Electrically Conductive Adhesive Epoxy. Silver Filled Electrically Conductive Adhesive Epoxy. Be sure to use an electrically conductive epoxy adhesive that is flexible. Certain silver filled electrically conductive epoxy adhesives have excellent flexibility. Also take special note how to cure and the curing time for that certain epoxy. Before applying the electrically conductive epoxy adhesive across the center rail connections, the metal surfaces must be perfectly clean. Insure that that all applied surfaces are totally clean from any rust, paint or road bed gravel. A scouring pad like scotch brite will do an excellent job since it is very flexible. Be sure to use a fine mesh scouring pad and not a course mesh scouring pad like heavy duty. The scouring pad should be thin for better results. Purchase from a hardware store, a long 3/4" round wooden stick. Cut a required slot for the scouring pad and file the end to look like a sharpened pencil. Before applying the electrically conductive epoxy adhesive across the center rail connections, the metal surfaces must be clear of any debree. Insure that that all applied surfaces are totally clean from previous cleaning operation removing the sanding debree. Lacquer Thinner is an excellent fast drying metal cleaner, but may also attack certain plastics. Some hobby paint suppliers also offer Lacquer Thinner in smaller containers. A Q-Tip cotton swab is an excellent tool to use, but the applicator handle must be made of wood. Lacquer Thinner will melt a plastic handle Q-Tip cotton swab. Drill a small hole into the long 3/4" round wooden stick at the opposite end and insert the Q-Tip cotton swab. Dampen the Q-Tip cotton swab with Lacquer Thinner and clean the required surfaces. Before applying the electrically conductive epoxy adhesive across the center rail connections, you may be required to mix the two epoxy ingredients together as per instructions prior to installation. Purchase an application tool like a 150 ml syringe, easily available from Ebay. Mark a straight center line along the length of the 3/4" round wooden stick. Purchase two adjustable hose clamps and lightly clamp the 150 ml syringe to the 3/4" round wooden stick to the center line. Purchase required 1/2" inside hole rubber grommets and hot glue to the center line of the 3/4" round wooden stick. Purchase from a hardware store, a long 3/8" round wooden stick, to press down the large 150 ml syringe. Suck up the electrical epoxy into the large syringe. Apply a single bead across the required track connections.

needle nose pliers works well

After early replying to this subject I thought about all the issues I've had with Fact Track & pulled it all off of the layout. Out of all the tracks I've used K-Line Shadow rail & or Super Snap was my favorite so I purchased enough to switch back. To all those who replied thanks for helping me make this decision. Problem solved for me, to everyone else good luck.

DOUG-SR stated that needle nose pliers works well. This procedure works perfectly with Lionel O-27 three rail tracks that use a round metal pin, to connect the center rails together. Lionel FasTrack uses two small flat thin metal connecting plates to connect the center rails together. The combined thickness of the two small flat thin metal connecting plates is smaller in thickness, than the internal width size of the mating center rail. Will not the needle nose pliers partially crush the center rails together?

You don't "crush" the rail.  You bend the tabs toward each other.  After 3 months of taking apart and putting back together, I've had no problem that 5 minutes and my fingers cant fix.  I bend the outer ground connecters outward and the inner positive rail connectors toward each other.   Anybody ever check to see if the pins from tubular track with fit the rails of Fastrack?  In a perfect world we all would have Gargraves track and Ross switches.  Nobody sells it in my area.

Jim  

CARSNTRAINS stated you don't "crush" the rail. >>> You bend the tabs toward each other. <<< After 3 months of taking apart and putting back together, I've had no problem that 5 minutes and my fingers can’t fix. I bend the outer ground connectors outward and the inner positive rail connectors toward each other. How will an individual that has a permanent mounted model train layout, be able to bend the center tabs toward each other?

Billy D posted:

CARSNTRAINS stated you don't "crush" the rail. >>> You bend the tabs toward each other. <<< After 3 months of taking apart and putting back together, I've had no problem that 5 minutes and my fingers can’t fix. I bend the outer ground connectors outward and the inner positive rail connectors toward each other. How will an individual that has a permanent mounted model train layout, be able to bend the center tabs toward each other?

No idea.   One of the first things I read about O gauge railroading was to do that to Fastrack.   So I have done that and hadn't had any real problems.  Ive also seen people solder short pieces of wire to each rail.   Since I have buss wired the entire layout I really hope I don't have any problems.   If I had watched the interviews with folks that have done huge layouts and have already learned about track I would have used Gargraves track and Ross switches. But other than a little noise out of Fastrack I really don't have any complaints.

Jim

I went back and read some of the previous postings. I am presently retired. I also spent many years doing Health and Safety in a special manufacturing environment. When it comes to most special cleaning chemicals, there will always be some level of health poisonous hazard. Of course when only drinking any of these chemicals, there will always be health poison hazard. There is big difference between a health hazard # that only applies to inhalation and a very toxic poison chemical #. When it comes to rail-zip 2, a manufactured trade mark, it is only a inhalation health hazard. Rail-zip 2 warns of concerned future health risks, to prevent any future health liable law suites. Denatured alcohol is rated #6 being very poisonous and very toxic. This poisonous chemical can be also absorbed directly into the skin. >> Web Site: https://cameochemicals.noaa.gov/chemical/11065 <<