I thought we could start an oil and grease topic if it's own. What's your favorite? Any tips or tricks?
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Has anyone used froglube on their engines or rolling stock?
As always RED & Tacky lube for me. As the Brylcreem commercial once stated,
"A little dab'll do ya".
We use Imperial Grease with imbedded silicone. John in Lansing, ILL
laz1957 posted:As always RED & Tacky lube for me. As the Brylcreem commercial once stated,
"A little dab'll do ya".
I use Red & Tacky as well.
LAZ, I agree.......a little dab'll do ya, which also means a cartridge is a lifetime supply for toy trains!!
I have been using Labelle products for years. When oiling your trains always remember "less is more".
SouthernMike posted:I have been using Labelle products for years. When oiling your trains always remember "less is more".
isn't that the truth.
I harp on this all the time, but people will not listen.
been using this for about 30 yrs.
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Lubriplate Aero, Red and Tacky, Sheath rust preventive, T-9, and every now and then, Duralube but usually Castrol or Mobile straight weight motor oils, Wolfshead when I could find it, Kendal cm or Pennzoil in a pinch (20w, 30w)
I haven't seen Mobile straight weight in a long while, but then again I had to stop driving for years too, so I haven't been exactly hunting oils anymore.
I had a neighbor who was a big shot at GM Hydromatic. I payed close attention to the neighbor that got 2-3 hundred thousand miles out of every car he had. Everyone of mine got a few hundred too (two at over 500k, including an old VW van (18 summers)..."1200 mile-1700 for an oil change 2500 MAX. the auto experience alone transfers to trains well.
Half dozen engineers, and two chemists for freinds helps too.
(Tom, My email is listed.... if it is ever wanted/ needed by anyone, it's there, returns may come from a different one though, fyi. But even then, I make it pretty obvious)
I'm moving away from Red & Tacky. When heated it is anything but tacky and turns to a liquid. I had some in a grease gun hanging up on a pegboard this summer. That junk pooled all over my workbench, slowly dripping from the end at 80 degrees in the garage. I can only imagine what is happening in my gear cases after long runs. I'm going to go with a quality moly bearing grease from now on.
I agree with every voice here who echoed that "a little dab'll do ya," (that was pretty clever, LAZ1957) and "less is more." I say that because the first (and last!) time I have ever lubricated an engine (a scale Dreyfus, no less) its tires (all of them!!!) immediately oozed their way right off! Apparently, though I had been so sure I was adding just the tiniest of drops, I had been over zealous. (I think the engine still gives me dirty looks over The Oily Incident.
)
FrankM, the over-oiler
What's wrong with too much lube? Water based is best.
Oils and mechanisms go hand in hand for me. I don't see oil as dirty unless it is, by use or design. Moly is overkill and truely "dirty and messy". Not to mention some are so solvent & soap/ waterproof you are never going to be rid of it's presence. It will eventually get on hands and transfer, make a repainting something, etc. a nightmare too. I also think they need more heat to secrete oil/spread (?) My initial fear would be "under-lubing" from lack of it. If you're not sure about that either, you better look it up.
I expect my greases to secrete oils because that is what they are supposed to do; stay put and secrete oil steadily. Open most cans of grease and there is oil puddling on top year round.
Yes, Red & Tacky will leak from a grease guns tip over time. I throw a plastic sandwich bag over mine to keep crud off it anyhow, even if it has a cap. Leaking out of seams? Buy a better grease gun, or add a bit of sealant on the last exposed threads before fully closing it tight. Hylomar works great & doesn't harden, so use it all over the threads..another solvent proof and slightly oozy product, but does its job very well and wipes clean far easier than moly; though it does take more pressure to do so.
R&T comes in cans too if I'm not mistaken.
I don't see oil as dirty unless it is, by use or design.
The oil itself doesn't start out dirty. When there is excess oil / grease, or it is put in places where it does not belong, it holds onto whatever dust / dirt comes in contact with it. Then the oil is dirty.
I use sparingly LGB Special Oil and LGB gear grease. Both are plastic compatible and the red synthetic GEL oil is easy to see when applying to any surface with its needle applicator. I use these high quality LGB lubricants on my traditonal SG and LGB locos. I stockpiled enough to last me for years!
Have been using Mobil One synthetic oil on model train engine bearings, bushings and axles. Better lubricity and longer lasting. Don't know if this lube is recommended or not but no lube doesn't do the trick.
Train lubricants are largely a personal choice - what is tried and tested for YOU is the one for you! The main idea is to lubricate sparingly - too much is almost as bad as too little!
SouthernMike posted:I have been using Labelle products for years. When oiling your trains always remember "less is more".
I use these as well, only you have probably been at it a lot longer than I have. I also have an MTH Maint. Lube kit and their tube of gear lube has an amazing resemblance to Red & Tacky, which I also have and have used.
Slick 50 oil on rolling stock axles for a roller bearing like glide.
That’s what she said!!!
