Drawbar repair

I have shortened them using solder. If the break is where the draw bar bends, maybe you can make a splint from sheet steel or sheet brass and epoxy them together. After the epoxy dries, you can drill and tap for 2-56 screws on both sides of the splint.

Thanks.  When you shortened the drawbar using solder, what kind of solder did you use?

The break is where the drawbar bends.  Bad design as they have a square hole at the bend point.

Can you take a picture of the drawbar? It may be better to make a new one without the square hole. Common electronic solder is OK for lap joints. Not strong enough for butt joints, especially at a stress point.

Pete

DaveGG posted:

Thanks.  When you shortened the drawbar using solder, what kind of solder did you use?

The break is where the drawbar bends.  Bad design as they have a square hole at the bend point.

I have shortened a number of those Lionel infrared drawbars, and have soldered a piece of brass over the cut. I have always used RadioShack solder for such jobs.

Here is a photo of my failed silver solder repair.

Dave

You could probably fabricate a new one without too much difficulty, it'll be a little time consuming.

Thanks all for the feedback.  I'll post my repair when complete.

Dave

DaveGG posted:

Thanks.  When you shortened the drawbar using solder, what kind of solder did you use?

The break is where the drawbar bends.  Bad design as they have a square hole at the bend point.

I used regular 60/40 electronic solder and it was, indeed, a lap joint. That's why I suggested a splint and 2-56 screws.

You are talking about a fish plate joint.  It should work.

 Dave, that is quite the drawbar after looking at Lionel's parts. It broke in a tough spot to repair. The hole where the wire passes through. Not a lot of meat to work with. I've used a splice plate to shorten drawbars. Used a brass strip with 4 holes tapped in it.

 The second photo shows the brass strip. I covered it in JB Weld which was probably overkill. The problem with yours is your dealing with a spot the wire passes through and there really isn't much to work with. Where your drawbar straightens out is probably the best place to make a splice.

 I went to Lionel's parts site. As you stated the part is unavaiable. What makes their site great is the fact that they have pictures. Below is your S1.

 This one is from a T1. Looks similar and may work. If your attempt at repair is a no go. It might be easier to search their site and try to come up with something that may work or can be tweaked to work. You may have to splice it together. But it can be done on the long straight portion where you have something to work with.

Thanks for the research.  I think you are correct in that I should purchase something that can be modified to work.  Attaching the flat section of the bar makes a lot of sense.

Dave