Fastrack switch noise clicking Sound

 That's the non derailing section of track that throws the switch if it's lined against the movement of the train.   It uses the axles of the train to complete the circuit. It could be something as simple as dirty track. That area looks very dirty in the picture. Have you cleaned the track? Cleaned the wheels? Does the non derailing function work when the switch is thrown against the movement of the train?

Joe K,

   Train Nut is correct, clean up your FT, the sparking also happens with my Tin Plate Engines and Rolling Stock, due to the deep flanges on the older type trucks, so far I have had absolutely no problems with my FTCC Switches operating properly, even with the occasional sparking.

PCRR/Dave

I cleaned the track (it was dirty), with no change in the sparking noise. This is the only fastrack switch that has this issue. The non-derail feature works properly. Could there be a loose connection inside the switch, which could be seen if I remove the bottom of the switch?

Thanks for your input so far, as it has eliminated some possibilities.

JK

If you open the bottom of the turnout. There is a pie shaped rack that is rotated by a small can motor to throw the rails.

At either end of the travel you can see a black microswitch that is closed when the rack rotates to the end of its travel in either direction.

This micro switch let's the turnout know it is in the proper direction based in the direction of travel, aka, the non derail feature.

It's possible one of the micro switches is malfunctioning  or the rack is not closing it completely at the end of its travel.

The buzzing you here could be the turnout straining to activate the non derail feature.

An easy way to check is with the bottom cover off rotate the lantern in each direction to throw the turnout manually.

At the end of each direction watch the micro switch and listen for a "click" indicating its been fully closed.

I used a piece of tape on one side of the rack to act as a shim some it would fully close the switch, make the click.

The turnout has been fine for years.

While your in there. Make sure the two screws holding the small can motor in place are snug.

I had an instance where the screws were just a turn loose ,allowing the can motor to ride up off the end of the rack and jam.

Does it chatter? Using track power. There were some older switches that the aux track power wires were,wired wrong. The funny part the,switch would work. But, spark and chatter like hell.

I removed the switch from my layout and removed the backing down in the work room. The first picture shows the micro switch in the straight through direction, which is the position that it is in when making the sparking noise. This occurs when a set of wheels is on the derail portion of the switch, shown in red on the top view of the switch. The second picture shows the switch in the divergent position. As mentioned before, the switch works OK, the non-derail feature works OK. It just makes noise that indicates something is going to eventually burn out.

switch with track in straight position, when noise occurs

switch position, when track is in divergent position.

Non derail rail section on outside rail, shown beside red arrows

The switch motor mounting is tight, no movement there, as suggested by SHAWN

All wire connections look OK, nothing loose or disconnected.

My next step will be to take the switch upstairs to the train room and connect to a switch controller and track power to see if the micro switches click as described by RICKO

Any other ideas?

Thanks: JK

More thoughts:

During my power test, if I close the micro switch by adding a wedge to ensure it is fully closed, then I can test to see if the sparking sound is still there. 

If yes, then could the micro switch be faulty?

If no, then I need to add some tape to the side of the black wedge so when it rotates, it closes the miroswitch all the way closed.

Any other ideas if you got em.

I will test tonite or tomorrow morning.

Thanks: JoeK

Joe K posted:

My next step will be to take the switch upstairs to the train room and connect to a switch controller and track power to see if the micro switches click as described by RICKO

Any other ideas?

Thanks: JK

Excellent photos Joe!  FWIW,   the micro switches make a mechanical click, so no power needed.

Rotate the  lantern to manually throw the switch while holding the turnout upside down. Provided your not hearing challenged, you should be able to hear the micro switch"click" when its closed.

RICKO: I tried moving the switch manually, and can hear the micro-switch click. It does not appear to  be the issue. 

I will hook the switch up to power to see if the noise is still there.

Not sure what else to try, however with the back of the switch open, I'll see if i notice anything else.

Thanks: JoeK

It turned out to be the micro switch on the straight route not being pushed to the point of contact. There is a tab that pushes the micro switch button down, however it was not pushed enough on the straight route. I added a thick piece of clear tape (used to hold hockey socks in place), instead of electrical tape. One piece of clear hockey tape was thick enough. I used a small flat screwdriver to push the tape to ensure good contact with the triangular plastic gear. I needed 3 pieces of electrical tape, and the electrical tape did not stick well enough to the relatively small surface.

Thanks RICKO for the direction, I would have never figured this one out on my own.

The picture below shows the hockey tape addition.

I've had to build up several of them with a dab of JB-Weld to get the switches to contact.  As you have obviously noticed, there is no provision for adjustment.  The switches occasionally go bad as well.

The idea of a plastic weld is great. I will check my tool inventory, as I believe I have a plastic welding kit of some type.

Thanks for the idea Gunrunnerjohn. I am a bit concerned that the tape will eventually dry up and fall off.

The tape is not a good solution, as it tends to unstick easily. 

I added a layer to liquid plastic over the tab, using the Bondic liquid welder, as suggested by GunrunnerJohn. I tested it and it works fine.

I welded some liquid plastic on the tab on the gear that pushes the limit switch arm closed to press the micro switch button. the weld point is shown at the end of the red arrow, where the screwdriver head is located. 

I used the Bondic liquid plastic welder shown below. It was my first time using it, so I watched a Youtube video by Bondic that showed how to use it quite clearly. You put a drop or two of liquid plastic on the gear tab (shown by the red arrow and screwdriver), then harden the plastic with an ultraviolet light. It only takes about 5-10 seconds to harden the plastic. If you add too much, you can sand it down, however I only added about 2 drops, which worked fine without the need to do any sanding.

Another successful Forum resolved equipment issue. Thanks to all that helped and I hope any other readers may benefit from this. I will later post a pdf of this problem and solution for other to use easy for future reference.

Thanks: 

I have created a PDF explaining the problem and solution for fixing a fastrack switch that makes a repeated clicking sound when a train goes over the non-derail insulated rail. This occurs when the mocroswitch is not properly engaged and the non derail circuit keeps activating the switch motor under the switch (which is located near the lamp end of the switch).

Joe,

Read your pdf and it is an excellent document on the switch!   I will copy and save the document.

Great Information and Great Follow-thru on narrowing down the issue.

Look forward to applying it to any of my Fasttrack Switches that are in the need in the future.

Joe, 

Thank you for the great pdf and thank you everyone who had  input on this issue!  I had the same issue on two switches. Since finding  this post, my switches dont do the twitches no more! Sounds like a dance, doesnt it? “Lets do the switches, twitches!”

🕺🕺💃💃🕺

A classic example of the value of forums such as this... 

Mark in Oregon 

Great,article; Tethered with another product that couldn't be put in a museum in a section called qualtity.