Getting Rust Off Track Pins

I found several posts here on the forum that discuss using Evaporust to clean tubular track.  Seems less likely to damage the pins than a Dremel tool.

@GregM posted:

I found several posts here on the forum that discuss using Evaporust to clean tubular track.  Seems less likely to damage the pins than a Dremel tool.

Arnold I would agree with Greg besides the dermal tool could leave residue much like steel wool that can be picked up by passing trains. I have used a Scotch Brite pad very gently with great success in the past.

Thanks, Greg and Rick.

I knew about Evaporust for getting rust off track, but never heard of it being used to get rust off steel track pins. I guess it follows that it is good to use on the pins too.

My initial thought about using a Scotch Brite pad on the pins is that it might be awkward.

It seems to me that the Dremel Tool would be more precise for getting bits of rust off a track pin held in place by a par of pliers. I wonder if it would work well to gently use the Dremel tool and then wiping off the track pin to remove any residue.

Of course, it's very important to wear goggles when using the Dremel tool.

Arnold

Considering the cost of new track pins versus the time required to clean old ones (plus the change of damaging them in the process), I would recommend just getting new track pins.

If the rust is so bad it makes you want to opt for serious mechanical rust removal, you are better off to replace.

@BenLMaggi posted:

Considering the cost of new track pins versus the time required to clean old ones (plus the change of damaging them in the process), I would recommend just getting new track pins.

That makes sense, Ben, this is very tedious getting the rust off the pins.

Arnold - if for O27, PM me and I'll send a bunch of pins to you for free

@BenLMaggi posted:

Considering the cost of new track pins versus the time required to clean old ones (plus the change of damaging them in the process), I would recommend just getting new track pins.

Cool website Ben

Very professional, did you set it up and maintain it yourself?

@Lionelski posted:

Arnold - if for O27, PM me and I'll send a bunch of pins to you for free

Thanks, John, but I have O Gauge, not 027.

I do maintain my own website. It is free.

As for the pins, one of the problems is that even if you remove the rust you run the risk of removing the tin coating or otherwise gouging the metal...which will eventually lead to more rust. Except it will be hidden in your track joint and cause problems down the road which you won't be able to see or fix without more jumper wires.

Arnold,

I have extra O- Gauge Lionel pins. How many do you need?

@BenLMaggi posted:

I do maintain my own website. It is free.

As for the pins, one of the problems is that even if you remove the rust you run the risk of removing the tin coating or otherwise gouging the metal...which will eventually lead to more rust. Except it will be hidden in your track joint and cause problems down the road which you won't be able to see or fix without more jumper wires.

And....consider what you don't see is exactly like what you do see. (The track covering the embedded pin.) I have friends who solved this by soldering a piece of copper across the joint but of course the track is not coming apart.

Once the pins are clean or for new ones, give them a quick swipe with NO OX conduction grease to keep from rusting and improve conductance.

I am cleaning engine wheels and cleaning track and then applying NO OX to test if it keeps wheels and track cleaner as some report..

Charlie

TinMan sells pins in bulk.  Don't pay Lionel's prices or the generic eBay "deal" of almost $1/pin.

One thing to try is Bar Keepers Friend.  We use it all the time to clean various types of metal.  We also use it to clean the rust from our outdoor swing chain.

Just pour about half a cup into a bucket of water and put the items into it to soak for and couple of days.  You will be surprised at how this product works and its safe to use.

Find it at your local supermarket or Target and Walmart.

Arnold,

Evaporust removes all rust period, right down the metal, without damaging the metal.  Best of all, you can re-use it.

Buy a pint, pour a couple of inches of it in a glass jar, put all of your rusty pins in there, let it sit for 48 hours, then pour the liquid back into the bottle without losing the pins.  Dump the pins out on a small cotton rag to absorb remaining fluid, and then rinse them very briefly in scalding hot tap water.   Set them on a paper towel so they will dry immediately.

All of the rust will be gone.  No sanding, grinding or polishing needed.  And 90% of the Evaporust you used will be back in its container. Evaporust is a little pricey, but once you use it, you will find it that it is a very handy thing to have for any type of rust  removal.

Evaporust is a green product, that won't harm the environment.  So, you are not dealing with a caustic fluid or deadly fumes.

Mannyrock

I have another question related to this topic.

Assuming there are voltage drops on a tubular track layout and one cause could be rusty track pins. Assume also that the rusty pins are replaced with new pins that are perfectly clean.

My question has to do with the tips of the tubular track which previously held the rusty pins. In your experience, is it likely that there is also rust inside those tubular track tips (IMO, such rust, if it exists, is very difficult, near impossible, to see)?

If so, could that rust on the inside of the tubular track tips also cause voltage drops?

Assuming the answers to the above questions are Yes, do the same methods for removing rust on track pins mentioned on this thread (Evaporust, etc.) also apply to removing rust on the inside of the tubular track tips?

Arnold

@hokie71 posted:

And....consider what you don't see is exactly like what you do see. (The track covering the embedded pin.) I have friends who solved this by soldering a piece of copper across the joint but of course the track is not coming apart.

Bingo on worrying about the inside hidden part of the track! I agree with the posters who propose considering if this effort is worth it. Menards track is a bargain

@Arnold D. Cribari posted:

Thanks, John, but I have O Gauge, not 027.

Use finishing nails with the heads cut off.  Buy a pound and you'll have enough for a long time.  John