Glenn Snyder Shelving

Below:  top and bottom shelves have pin connectors, middle shelf does not.  If I got the alignment close enough, I did not use the pins.  They pass the 3 foot rule (everyone is looking at the trains anyway).  The pins are a PITA to insert.  I opened them with a screwdriver and hammer first.  I used the pins on the center rail only. They are all hidden by the trains.

I didn't like the look of the plastic end caps, so I made sides from 1x3s and drilled and attached them with connector pins.  I lightly tapped the wood side against the pins with a hammer to mark where to drill.

I used a Kreig jig to make pocket holes and mounted them to the wall with anchors.

Shelf spacing is 5 3/8".  This allowed for 1/2" to 3/4" clearance for pantographs (down position) and hi-level or dome passenger cars, 1" to 1 1/4" for scale steam, and 1 1/4" for diesels. 

Each shelf is two 6-foot sections

The bottom shelf is within toddler reach, so it gets emptied when the grandchildren visit. 😬

Of course there are always more trains than shelves.  I guess I'll add a couple more when the grandchildren are older.

Bob

RRDOC, thanks for the pictures. Love the way you have your trains displayed. Two questions are brought to mind: (ok - make it three)

1. I was going to use 6" spacing between shelves, I see you are using 5 3/8". From the pictures there seems to be plenty of "head room" including dome cars . I wonder what everyone else is using for their spacing between shelves. That 1/2 inch could be another shelf on my wall but I am mainly concerned with the aesthetics.

2. Has anyone ever connected two 6' lengths on the floor then (with help) hang the 12' section as one? Or is that asking for trouble.

3. Are you guys putting washers as shims between the wall and shelf?

Thank you gents.

My shelving arrives this week, painting those walls is on the agenda for next weekend.

Paul

I have several sections of GS shelving, and I'm happy with it.  I got them because RailRax was no longer available.  Almost all of my trains are on RailRax.

Just a note of caution.  I found that leaving my engines on the metal rails of the shelves seemed to have accelerated the deterioration of the traction tires.  I now take traction tire engines off of the tracks and let them stand on their flanges just adjacent to the rails.

I used just under 5" for spacing for my freight cars. I installed the bottom shelf first. Made sure it was level, then used two Coke cans for spacing. It was real easy. Just set the cans on the shelf and lay the next shelf on top of the cans. (I still used a level to verify before attaching to the wall.)

Charlie

ajzend posted:

I have several sections of GS shelving, and I'm happy with it.  I got them because RailRax was no longer available.  Almost all of my trains are on RailRax.

Just a note of caution.  I found that leaving my engines on the metal rails of the shelves seemed to have accelerated the deterioration of the traction tires.  I now take traction tire engines off of the tracks and let them stand on their flanges just adjacent to the rails.

It bothers me that the rails are eating the traction tires, that's not something I anticipated!

I thought about using the shelves to display some engines I have but not until the traction tire issue is resolved...

I think I'd probably use some transparent tape on the rails under locomotives to avoid that issue.

Hmm, I am not a chemist and I am not going to dispute the fact that AJZEND has had issues with rubber traction tires.

For me, I have been using the GS shelving for over 10 years, I have not experienced any traction tire deterioration on any of my engines that have been stored off and on the aluminum shelves.

Certain types of rubber may contain a hint of carbon. It is a fact that carbon reacts with aluminum over time. If the tires contain carbon, then that may be the problem. If the shelves are in a damp area, then the moisture in the air could help accelerate the process. If the rubber tires contain latex or silicone then they should be stable. Same goes for any vulcanized rubber.

My bottom line, I would not worry about it. 

Just my two cents.

Donald

Would spraying a clear finish on the rail side of the shelf accomplish the same thing as tape and be faster and easier?

Jan

I have had Glenn Snyder shelving for more than eighteen years. Have never had an issue with traction tires deteriorating.  I am more inclined to think that relative humidity and/or extreme heat in the room may be more significant factors regarding the life of the tires. I run virtually all of my many engines and although they may not have a great many hours of run time on them, the tires hold up very well.  I have purchased several "mint" pieces that were some years old, in one case about ten, and, upon opening the box, the tires on the engines were dried out.  I do think it best that every effort be made to maintain a moderate humidity/temperature controlled room, especially during the summer months.  

cpowell posted:

I used just under 5" for spacing for my freight cars. I installed the bottom shelf first. Made sure it was level, then used two Coke cans for spacing. It was real easy. Just set the cans on the shelf and lay the next shelf on top of the cans. (I still used a level to verify before attaching to the wall.)

Charlie

Charlie:

Thanks for sharing this excellent bit of common sense ... that I may or may not have figured out myself.

Yes, of course you should start with the bottom shelf.  As you say, with some sort of spacers (coke cans or blocks of wood you cut yourself from scrap 2x4), each successive shelf could be used to support the one being installed above it.  This would certainly turn this in to a one-man job, no problem.

Thanks again for pointing this out.

Steven J. Serenska

Glenn Snyder track is anodized. Rail Rax is not. Anodizing should prevent any chemical reaction with the traction tires.

Pete

We covered the train room walls with the Snyder O-gauge shelves.  Used pins on the two rails next to the wall, leaving it off the outside rail for a seamless look.  They hold trains, even heavy locomotives, without bending at all.  Screwed into the 2x6s in the walls.  Like the satin look over the shiny of the other brands.  Bought some more last month to cover the last open space that will take shelves.

CurtisH posted:

romiller49 posted:

Place your order before York and they will bring the order to York. At April York one person bought a very large amount on Thursday morning wiping out all the Ogauge shelving for the rest of the meet.

I apologize as that was most likely me. I never thought about calling ahead. I purchased as soon as I got there in April 17 and 18. I will honestly TRY real hard to pre order next time. Sorry for the inconvenience I caused.

Curtis, no need to apologize. You were a great sale from the start. That is something all table holders would love. I think they should simply bring more than they do. They are always sold out of Ogauge by early Friday. 

I guess I won't worry about the traction tires until I actually have a bad experience.

I have had Glen's shelving up since 2008 without any tire problems.  Yes, I put it up all by myself, started at the bottom, used wood blocks to support shelves as I attached to the wall.  Still verified with a 4 ft level, also assisted with maintaining vertical alignment of fasteners into wall studs.  Yes, made use of washers were needed due to the variances of the drywall.  Really love it, need more, along with more wall space.  I have added more since pic was taken, but this consists of five sections each, 30 foot runs.  Each shelve is now extended further with additional installed above.  Second shelve down had a "tilt" due to variance in drywall surface.  The connecting roll pins worked great, and yes, need to spread to ease installation.   I do have a greater space between shelves than others, but it is nice for helping to grasp better, especially the BB and other heavier engines.    Jesse   TCA

Probably not a solution for everyone .... I use clear coated 1 x 4's and ripp 2 track wide groves just deep enough to keep the traction tires from not sitting on the wood.

I am fortunate that they are local and I can drive over to pick them up. Very friendly people and always helpful. I only used the pins on the center rail for a cleaner look. I used soup cans as spacers, 4ft level and washers as spacers where needed. My biggest problem was spreading the pins. With my first purchase I used a chisel and vise grips and a lot of 4 letter words. On my second purchase a used a small phillips head screw driver that I pounded in on each end just  enough to spread the pins enough to start them on the shelf. 

First set installed

Second set.

How sturdy are these things ?  I like the way these shelves look, but I'm a Standard Gauge guy.  Would these things hold a State Set, or a Standard gauge Blue Comet ?  Some of the pieces I have weigh a ton.  Especially my Die-cast Flyer steam locomotives.  Has anybody used these shelves successfully with Standard Gauge ?   

They're probably as strong as the wall holding them.  I'd be more worried about the studs.   You'd probably want to use every stud instead of only three as they recommend.