GREAT SUCCESS WITH A LIONEL SMOKE PUFFER UNIT //WITH PHOTOS AND VIDEO

I did this to mine about a year ago. I was shown how by menbers of the Pittsburgh Indenpendent Hi-Railers.Works Great. 

Hi Doc,

I'm glad you posted here. Because when I first did this yesterday morning I was a little leery about trying it. I didn't know if I drilled the holes to large the whole upgrade wouldn't work. Thanks for the info.

Alex

Would this work on my MPC era SOuthern Crescent and the Reading Hudson I just burned out yesterday?

I am just amazed at what you are able to do when it comes to trains. I just wish that I had 1/10 of your abilities. I love reading & looking at your postings.

ogaugeguy,

The RTR Berk, Jr. has the correct wire-wound resistor already, if it is a recent set.

The holes and the batting look like the solution. Also, a dumb setup for the resistor. I went to a hobby squeeze bottle with a metal applicator to keep the smoke fluid off of the resistor(so it doesn't look like the) one Alex removed.

I had asked gunrunnerjohn about an electrical mod to improve smoke at slow speeds, but this looks safer and it works great!

Thanks, Alex.

Good morning all,

Thank you Todd, and Spence for the wonderful words, it means a lot to me.

Matthew what's the item number, I'm not sure I can look it up, but if this engine has a puffer unit it should work.

Thanks, Alex

I’ve finally found the time to put into this project.

I have two locomotives I’d like to try this modification on;

The MPC era Southern Crescent cab #8702 with an 8600-42 model smoke unit and the LTC Reading cab #8004 with an #8610-42 model smoke unit.

I’m trying to figure out if there’s an upgraded unit with the two air ports between the baffle and the smoke pot I could replace them with.

I’m not sure if there would be such unit I could just drop in and replace them with and not have to make other modifications first. I don’t have any idea what the resister value currently is on these units and whether that would have to be matched. Both  engines are equipped with the Mighty Sound of Steam.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Hi Matthew,

  There should be a 6 digit item number on the box, if you have those numbers it might be possible to look up the part's to see what can be done.

Alex

Hi Matthew,

I'm not sure if you can upgrade this unit to a fan driven unit , but I would just do the upgrade I did in the above post. It worked out really well. If you need my assistance It would be my pleasure to help you out .

Alex

Is there a specific reason you don't use Mega-Steam?

Wowak,

There's no reason at all, I just never had it, but a few fellow forum member's have been by my house and they have turned me on too Mega Steam and It's awesome

So I have added it to my list.

Addendum : In fact the last few smoke upgrades I did I used Mega Steam

Thanks, Alex

yes they do alex..Id did a similar mod to my 671 in 1994..and man it was an improvement.

The smoke unit in my LTC Reading 6-18004 cab #8004 is beyond repair (see video below). The cap for the smoke pot melted down. It was a #8610-42 model smoke unit.

I'm wondering if I could replace it with the smoke unit used in the Lionel J1A and if so what is the part #?

I imagine if could be done there may be some modifications neccesary, which I wouldn't be opposed to.

anything can be done if you put your mind to it..

It was time for my PE maintenance and I repacked and opened up the holes for the smoke unit...It does smoke much better now.

Hi Paul,

Nice work, smoke's great

Thanks for sharing

Alex

Great video.  Couple of questions. How do you get the top off of the smoke unit.  Do you pull it or twist it off?  Second, looks like my smoke unit resistor has a sleeve around it.  Could I just cut off the sleeve and give that a try or do I need to actually replace the resistor?  I can repack it once I get it apart. I have already looked at it so know how to get to it.

Hi JDA,

The top of the smoke unit is just held in by a pressure fit, but to take it off you will have the unsolder the wire that goes from the top of the smoke unit to the bracket.

To take the top off just gentle pull it with a long nose pliers.

Just cut the sleeve off, and leave the resistor bare, as long as the resistor is working you can leave it. To test the resistor use a multi meter set it to ohms and put one lead on each side, it should read around 27 ohms. Add new batting and set the resistor in the batting. Make sure the air holes are not blocked by the batting. Also look under the black piston and make sure the two ball bearings are free. You will also notice a wrapping around the resistor on one side, make sure you don't disturb that wrapping.That side of the resistor can't hit ground. Just let me know if you need any other help.

Thanks,

Alex

Alex.

Success!!  My J1a was not smoking at all so I took the smoke unit apart and followed your instructions.  Cut the sleeve off, checked the resistor (was 27 ohms), drilled out the holes and put in new wicking (used the new Lionel wicking).  Put it all back together and it smokes quite well now.  So, want to thank you for telling me how to fix it.  I suspect if I had just cut off the sleeve around the resistor it would have smoked but perhaps not as well as it does now.  I do not think it was getting any heat to the wicking.   But since I had it apart, I thought I might as well use all of your suggestions.  Thanks again.

Hi JDA,

  That's fantastic, I'm glad it all worked out.

Thanks,

Alex