hOT KNIVES FOR FOAM CUTTING

I'm happy with the Tippi brand hot wire cutter I bought over 10 years ago at York

if you are using a foam knife for scenery you dont need it.

Last night I finished a whole section of scenery that was made from chopped sections of foam attached with Great Stuff (controlled flow canister).  Let dry,

Then, I hand (in plastic glove) spread a thin layer of drywall compound over the foam creating a thin shell over the foam. Also, so I can spray paint oil-based paint on the foam "shell" surface without the foam melting due to the acetone and oil in the paint.

Then while the compound is still wet, I used the Lenardo Da Vinci method (Sistine Chapel) and using green, gray and brown spray paint (ok, Leo didn't have that!) on the compound

Finally, spread various Woodland Scenics' ground covers, grasses, course Turf etc, directly on the wet paint.

need a bit of vacuum, Note the beginnings of lake and new waterfall is shown in the last photo.

the flat areas are for the bridges not shown.

Oh and I have several hot knifes; but I found after you add the turfs you dont see the hot knife grooves any more.

the nice thing about the thin-shell over foam as opposed to the plaster-soaked paper over chicken-wire is that you can more easily cut and change the thin shell, if need be,

@AlanRail posted:

the nice thing about the thin-shell over foam as opposed to the plaster-soaked paper over chicken-wire is that you can more easily cut and change the thin shell, if need be,

That looks great Alan.

John

I use a Dremel mulit-max to cut and carve rigid foam. Keep a shopvac nozzle near the work area to catch the crumbs.

I'm not a fan of hot wire cutters due to the toxic fumes emitted from the foam.

I also use Alan's method of foam chunks to add detail. I usually topcoat everything with plaster cloth and a coat of thinned joint compound applied with a paint brush to fill in any gaps and saw marks.

Bob

Bob

really nice work, I can almost feel the earth trying to overpower the wood retaining walls,

Beautiful work AlanHN and Bob.

Thanks for sharing your inspirational talents

@AlanRail posted:

Bob

really nice work, I can almost feel the earth trying to overpower the wood retaining walls,

@Lionelski posted:

Beautiful work AlanHN and Bob.

Thanks for sharing your inspirational talents

Thanks gents. It was a fun project and one that I had been putting off for a long time. I had to build a platform to climb on to reach the corner. Too bad the upper level track hides a lot of it.

FINAL TOUCH.

The last thing I do after the scenery is completed is SPARRINGLY spray on Gold or Copper spray paint over the scene,

This adds a sun-like reflective quality to the earthy scene that changes its reflection as you move around it,

Brilliant work Alan and Bob....I am in awe of your modelling talents. You leave me for dead!!!

Peter....Buco Australia.

Peter

thanks BUT this method is easy and fast to do.

I call this commercial modelling; it's what I can accomplish during the time a commercial runs on TV.

SSSF   Slop, spread, spray, flock.

Alan....just love that "commercial modelling" description.....laughed and laughed!!!

Peter....Buco Australia.

@AlanRail posted:

Peter

thanks BUT this method is easy and fast to do.

I call this commercial modelling; it's what I can accomplish during the time a commercial runs on TV.

SSSF   Slop, spread, spray, flock.

@Buco posted:

Alan....just love that "commercial modelling" description.....laughed and laughed!!!

Peter....Buco Australia.

Great description Alan. I approach model landscaping the same as I do 1:1. If I don't like the results, rip it out and start over. These materials are cheap, not like assembling a building that you want to look just right.

Bob

Since I completely HIJACKED this thread, sorry OTWW,  I am working on the Lake shown in the photos;

I will start a new thread on lake making...