I was looking at projects to repair & run and I came across an NW-2 Switcher that was not running. I plan to strip it down and refurbish it. My question is: How do I get the sheet metal frame back to black? I am going to degrease the frame and tighten the end rails with my arbor press, but how do I get the frame back to black? Paint, or gun blue? Please advise me on the way to go.
Dr.Fu-Manchu
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Your best bet is to repaint it. Lionel used a hot blue that is very difficult to duplicate. Cold blues leave a distinct bluesh cast. Caswell plating has a new cold blue that is much closer to Lionel's but pretty pricey. Its up to you.
http://www.caswellplating.com/...irearms.html?cat=276
BTW if you decide to try and chemically blacken it you need to remove the old blue and polish the metal to an even sheen. Otherwise it will appear very blotchy.
Naval Jelly for rust removal will remove the blackening.
Pete
BTW if you decide to try and chemically blacken it you need to remove the old blue and polish the metal to an even sheen. Otherwise it will appear very blotchy.
Rust will also leave the metal pitted.
I have never been happy with the results I've gotten trying to blacken diesel frames.
I did learn that one has to be careful not to touch the metal with bare fingers after cleaning. In my experience, the oils from skin will affect the bluing, leaving fingerprints in the finish.
I also found it best to completely submerge the piece in the bluing solution. When I tried to apply it any other way, the finish was streaky and uneven.
You have to remove the pits. Light pits can removed with wet or dry carbide paper. For deeper pits I have a rubberized abrasive wheel that mounts on a bench grinder type mandrel or you use an arbor and use a drill press. It leaves a satin finish that you can then even out with finer grades of sandpaper.
At some point you will be better off trying to find a donor frame.
With paint you just have to clean it, fill the pits, primer and paint.
Lots of choices. Depends on how much you enjoy doing restorations and is it worth the effort.
Pete
I'd clean the frame of dirt and rust.....and paint with Duplicolor semi gloss black.
I think I will use paint, sounds like less labor and cheaper. Thanks all who replied.
There are places on Lionel's sheet metal frame where electrical contact has to be made for the train to run. Either mask those areas off, or you will have to remove the paint later.
Areas that come to mind are:
Where the motor truck contacts the frame. Exactly where depends on the type of motor truck.
Where the light bulb socket mounts
Where the e-unit bracket mounts
Where the battery bracket mounts.
Where the collector truck contacts the frame.
Automotive paint store, semi flat black in spray can, if you have it clean you do. Not need to prime, buy lacquer base.
I would not paint the frame. I would clean the frame up and re blue it using Hopp's blueing from Walmart. If you strip the metal clean the blueing will streak and not be that dark the first coat. You will have to re blue several times and each time it'll get darker. After three or four coats it'll be black. Between each coat you will need to let it dry and rub it down with #00 steel wool before applying the next coat of blue. The directions will tell you this if you follow them. I redone my grandpa's shotgun with professional results.
trooperty@comcast.net posted:Automotive paint store, semi flat black in spray can, if you have it clean you do. Not need to prime, buy lacquer base.
Why lacquer instead of enamel?
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