I loved TMCC for five minutes.

Ah!!!.......Model Trains......like Cracker Jacks - A surprise in every box !!! 

If you can post a few pics, you might get some tips to help with the repair.

Dave

That is either the ground wire (sometimes a wire) or the center rail pickup which connects to a pickup roller tab. Should be easy to solder back on. Maybe a tiny bit of solder flux, but not usually necessary since there is some solder already on the tab. I would recommend an inexpensive but excellent soldering station for trains like this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-...QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Or more expensive and featured...

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-F...QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks. I appreciate the advice. I think the tricky part is the fact that the wire appears to be broken off back to the jacket, so I have to some how get in there and strip a little bit of the jacket off first. Cjack, thanks for the links. I think my son has that same soldering station. I'll see when he gets home tomorrow. I might have to invest in some forceps as well to hold the wire while working in such a small area.

It might be advisable to lengthen the wire a bit so it has room to flex.

Yes, I was thinking the same thing. Once again, the challenge is just getting to it. Hopefully I'm better at this than I think. Here's a photo of the issue...

So it's that black wire that goes to the tab under the red wire...

The black wire might pull out a little so it can be stripped a bit. Flux would help soldering to the black wire strands. They tend to get oxidized over time. Maybe solder a wire onto the tab and then connect the new wire and the old wire together. Hopefully you can slid a short insulating sleeve over the joint...heat shrink if you are careful not to heat it soldering. Maybe a needle nose clamping past the heat shrink sleeve while soldering. You need 3 or 4 hands for this.

The good part of this is once you resolder the wire your confidence level will sky upward. You can do it. 

if your afraid to tackle the soldering ill be glad to help you I'm in  new jersey. send me an email in my profile.

Alan

would not cost much!!

ah we're gonna get this new guy going. if your going to play with trains you'll need a solder tools , forceps , wire strippers, extra wire of various types, bourbon , amp meter, all forms of screw drivers, small files, vodka , new bi focal glasses, ( i have been in the hobby for about 15 years and am up to tri  focal glasses) also consider nut drivers, did i mention screw drivers ( small ones) , ah dremel tools ( lots of them) might consider rum as well. 

John V pretty much nailed on everything needed to be successful at repairing anything in this hobby. I'm a rum guy myself but find if I drink to much it even the bifocals don't work as well when redrinking trains.

Cheers

LOL, oh boy, you guys are just full of good suggestions. I think I'll save the Rum to celebrate after the repair, I'm challenged enough as it is. Seriously though, thank you for all of the help, it's good to have friends around. Alan, I'll take a crack at it myself and if it doesn't go well I'll contact you. Thanks!

It's important to remember that any brand of trains can develop these kinds of issues. When you get enough engines so that you can play with others when things go wrong, it helps. Doesn't help your wallet though. Seems like we all have to get an inventory lately!

In all fairness Murphy's law says that could have been a wire snapped off at a roller plate if it was post war.....so you may have lucked out some

 Tin the wire tip with solder first. Tinning preloads the wire with solder making the actual connection's soldering faster and easier.

Wire tinned, cean the iron. Load the tip slightly and do it asap. Wait for the tinned solder to melt/flow/shine, pull heat, hold still, count to 5 slow,  and your done. Hopefully the tab can be mangled into a better position.

Another option once done is "liquid electrical tape".

...not for drinking , for insulation where tape or shrink tube wont work . 

Paint the thick goop on and wait a while.  A can will last years.

 If the kid is into electronics ; Soldering station (check), good strippers, stainless needlenose set (solder wont stick easy), great crimpers and connectors, like the best (industrial/SAE quality....no big box crap)  and an ohm meter they like. I prefer ones that feel like they can bounce. Oh, and a spring  loaded solder removal pen! Those are awsome!...marker sized pen mind you...thin with plunger and buttons down low is best. Not too big; its hard to handle big ones with " ball knobs".

Definitely no hard feelings at all about the wire. I realize when I buy old equipment online there's always a chance of breakage, and like was already said, this can happen with fairly new stuff as well, and from any manufacturer. I'm fairly confident i can solder it back on, like I said it's the cramped quarters that will challenge me the most. If I really cant get to it, I might pull the shell back off and pull the wire out through the top, strip, possibly extend it, and then thread it back through and try to solder. Just another merit badge to be earned in the train scouts.

The other thing on the 'to do' list now is to buy some bigger radius curve sections. I notice the engine struggled on the o31's. I'm in the process of selling off my fastrack and just going with all of Menard's tubular. I intend to pick up a case of the 30" straights and I guess a circle of the 42" diameter. I set up annually at the church for the kids so long sprawling ovals work best for me.

I did end up taking the shell off and pulling the wire out from the top so I could strip and tin it. I was also able to get a lot more slack so no need to add more wire. I then re-threaded the wire through the bottom and waited for my son to come home with his soldering station (and the extra pair of hands). We were able to get it soldered but it's not a good job. The space was tight and we started to melt one of the other wires. My son is going to bring a smaller soldering iron from school next week so we can make a proper connection. In the meantime I was able to run the engine and it worked fine. Thanks for all of the advice.

Engineer BoB,

You might consider the purchase of a  good small soldering Iron of your own, down thru the years if you keep on with this great hobby, you will definitely need one.  

PCRR/Dave

Pretty isn't as important as being solid when soldering. Likely it is fine as is.

Melted insulation isn't necesarily an issue either, but if it is, shrink tube and more care next time, or tape, or best.....liquid electrical tape works "right now" and stays working.   ...I really like the stuff  

john v posted:

ah we're gonna get this new guy going. if your going to play with trains you'll need a solder tools , forceps , wire strippers, extra wire of various types, bourbon , amp meter, all forms of screw drivers, small files, vodka , new bi focal glasses, ( i have been in the hobby for about 15 years and am up to tri  focal glasses) also consider nut drivers, did i mention screw drivers ( small ones) , ah dremel tools ( lots of them) might consider rum as well. 

A good bench top lighted magnifying lamp is a requirement for older eyes and small parts.

That and a good single malt !

RSJB18 posted:

john v posted:

ah we're gonna get this new guy going. if your going to play with trains you'll need a solder tools , forceps , wire strippers, extra wire of various types, bourbon , amp meter, all forms of screw drivers, small files, vodka , new bi focal glasses, ( i have been in the hobby for about 15 years and am up to tri  focal glasses) also consider nut drivers, did i mention screw drivers ( small ones) , ah dremel tools ( lots of them) might consider rum as well. 

A good bench top lighted magnifying lamp is a requirement for older eyes and small parts.

That and a good single malt !

This kind is great...LEDs in a circle around the magnifier...no shadows 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072...gid=pla-403938125647