Been looking at some O27 manual switches #1024 and love they way they look. I already have several O42 switches on my layout and was wanting to expand so I was wondering if these are reliable or not.
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They work just fine, but they are a lower profile than the "O" 042 model switches and "O" track, and will need to be shimmed up to match.
I just bought a pair of 1024s today ($2) and love the way they look and operate. A very nice switch design.
I have a nice pair, they look good and work good. Put pins in the ends of the center rails near the moveable switch-points, for better tracking of center-rail rollers and sliders. This pic compares a 1024 and the later 1022 manual switch. The 1022 has the advantage of "power-routing" which can be used to cut track power to a spur just by throwing the switch.
IMO the 1024 switches have less chance of wheels shorting to the center-rail blob between the switch-points. That can be an issue especially with some prewar and Marx cars that have rather sloppy wheel tolerances due to loose fit on their axles.
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Ace: I think you meant “1022” as the manual switch on the right. “1122” was the number on the later post-war remote control O27 switch model.
And I also have a nice, clean pair of 1024 switches which I don’t need if “842” or anyone else is interested. Contact me at the email address in my profile if interested.
Bill
Originally Posted by WftTrains:
Ace: I think you meant “1022” as the manual switch on the right. “1122” was the number on the later post-war remote control O27 switch model ...
Bill
You're right, thank you for the correction. 1024 was the older O27 manual switch, 1022 was the newer O27 manual switch, 1122 was the remote O27 switch, O22 was a remote O31 switch, O42 was a manual O31 switch ... you have to wonder how Lionel came up with these oddball numbers!
O27 train sets had 1000 series numbers (through 1961) and O27 switches had 1000 series numbers; maybe there is some hint of a pattern there ... ?
The 1022's power routing feature is a big one in my opinion, and one that should be made available again. It eliminates the need for wiring in on/off switches to sidings where you want a loco or train parked. I'm heading back to the Greenberg show today just to pick up a pair. A guy was selling boxes of them for $2 each. I'm not a big fan of switches, but at that price, I'll buy them - just in case I decide to use them.
Gentlmen,
Ace is right on the money again, if you have a test station at the Greenburg show, which there usually is one, test the switches before leaving the show. They could need repaired, miner or major. Its not usually the purchase price of these old switches that matters, the rework time or paying for somebody to do repairs is. Many times the remote switch controllers will need to be repaired also, not a hard job just time consuming.
PCRR/Dave
I was just looking at these today, as I am thinking about 027 for my 3rd level. The 1022s look a little better. Anyone have a preference ?
The 1022 switches have a frog with guard rails. This arrangement will not work properly with some of the prewar and a few early post war locomotives. Those drive wheels with a gear on the backside that extends below the rail head will hit the guard rail causing the loco to jump or derail.
Originally Posted by David Johnston:
The 1022 switches have a frog with guard rails. This arrangement will not work properly with some of the prewar and a few early post war locomotives. Those drive wheels with a gear on the backside that extends below the rail head will hit the guard rail causing the loco to jump or derail.
Do you know which Postwar engines would have a problem? I'm running mostly postwar stuff & I was planning on 027 for the top level, so I'll have nothing larger than a 2026 or GP9
1654.
so a 1654/1655?
Would a 1130/2034 work on it?
1655 is OK. 1130/2034 should be OK too.
cool,
Thx Rob
Last night I did an informal comparison of the 1024 and 1022 switches I bought last weekend. I used a starter set 4-4-2 and an RMT Buddy to test them.
The 1024 switch was incredibly reliable, and the trains rode over it so smoothly, it was if there wasn't a switch there at all. No stalling, even at slow speeds, but there was a bit of sparking as the trailing truck of the steamer rode through it though.
The 1022 switch was a different story. The 4-4-2 went through it every time, but occasionally stalled at very slow speed. Not a smooth switch to run through, with audible clunking and minor jostling as the steamer took the curve. The power routing feature was spotty at best, but I think that may have been because the track pins weren't seated tightly. The Buddy didn't like the switch at all. Only once did it run through the curve without derailing. It also stalled several times. For $2.00 a switch, I'm not crying myself to sleep over the purchase.
If I had a need for manual switches on my O27 layout, I'd pick the 1024 hands down. Switches are the weak link of the O27 track system, and I doubt if anyone will create a nice looking, reliable alternative to what's out there now.
Originally Posted by Jumijo:
If I had a need for manual switches on my O27 layout, I'd pick the 1024 hands down.
And/or the 1121 remote equivalent to the 1024. All equipment goes through smooth on these too.
Rob, I think it's because the moving part is so long. It all but touches the curved rail with almost no space for a wheel to traverse and derail.
GarGraves version:
