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A part of my Christmas haul of O gauge trains I got today, 2 are K-Line smoking cabooses.  They were brand new in the box unopened.  Very nice looking they are.  I added smoke fluid and put them on the track.  They sure don't smoke hardly at all.  I could hear the sizzle of the fluid on the heater, but it seems like it's only relying on the heat to carry the smoke out, I heard no fan unit.  Do they have fans, or do they use convection for the smoke?  I figured I'd ask before I open one up to look.  Is there anything I should know about smoking cabooses as for maintenance and service?  Thanks.

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these are nice cabooses but when you use the smoke it gets so hot it melts and warps

the plastic bodies-I remember hearing members wrapped aluminum foil in the inside

around the smoke unit-I have 2 kline smoking cabooses-too detailed ad nic to get destroyed by using smoke unit-other members will give better info. on this besides me-enjoy them-be careful.

I've found that they take about 5 minutes to put out much smoke.   Even then, the smoke output is prototypical and considerably less than a loco.  Of course they smoke more at command voltages.

 

If yours does not have the command/conventional switch (only the on-off switch), you might want to install a 3A diode in series with the smoke unit.  K-line caboose smoke units sometimes melt the roof when run on the higher voltage of DCS or TMCC.  After seeing some melted ones at train shows, I did this to mine.  It smokes just fine after the change.   Here is a nice step-by-step blog article about how to do it.

Bob

If you run TMCC here is another possibility from ERR:

Lionel 17608 Smoking Action Caboose
Click on images for larger view

    
  


Typically caboose's will have a minimum of illumination and smoke for consideration of a command upgrade. On some, a strobe lamp is also present with a small flasher card. The Mini commander is capable of replacing the small flasher card and easily controlling all functions in a caboose. The caboose can be assigned as an engine or as an accessory.

The example caboose, a C&O 17608, is shown. The small flasher circuit is removed, and the Mini Commander is installed w/ double stick tape in its place. The antenna on the Mini Commander is positioned upright and towards the front end of the shell. Be certain to test fit the Mini Commander before permanently affixing the card to the chassis.

In addition to the 3 amp diodes you should also check and see how much insulation is in the chimney. I have many k-line cabooses and have found that most of them need some kind of repair from more insulation, to marker lights repair, broken switches. The biggest hurdle is getting to the screws which require a very long skinny screwdriver. By doing all these things it should really perform well. 

They do not have command/conventional switch, only a on/off switch.  I run both kinds of locomotives, so I should avoid putting them on the track when in command if the smoke is on?  I wouldn't mind seeing photos of ways to insulate them for command use.  Converting them to command with the Mini Commander sounds like something I would only look at doing way down the road since they are brand new (Boxes still factory taped shut new!) and I don't want to open them up yet for a long while.  Maybe when I convert them to LED someday.  Thanks for the info.  They are beautiful and detailed cabooses, and I really like them.  They go great with the K-Line GG1 and Allegheny I also got.

GunRunnerJohn has it right!  I have just one of these and it just works so much better when I run it with my TMCC engines. Yes it barely smokes, but she does a good job. I checked (by opening it up) and there isn't a fan..............it's just a simple smoking caboose..........and the details........the ladders; opening door (tho fragile as heck) and little chimney T are pretty cool.

     Never smokes that much, but the guests love it (me too.....duh)

Don't make 'em shelf Queens..........run 'em!

 

Oh, trust me, I own no shelf queens.  They were out of the box an hour after I unwrapped them (Had to feed the kiddies breakfast, although the older one would of skipped it on his own like dad because of the LEGO Lone Ranger train set he got.).  I didn't know the doors open, I'll have to try that when I get home tonight to see if mine do.  Any recommendations on what I can do to keep the roofs from melting with the smokers on for long periods at command voltage?  I love running with all the smoke and sounds.

Originally Posted by sinclair:
 
 "Any recommendations on what I can do to keep the roofs from melting with the smokers on for long periods at command voltage?  I love running with all the smoke and sounds."
 
Well here's a fix you can do AFTER the roof melts.
My K-line MKT smoking caboose put out a lot of smoke when run at 18 Volts behind a TMCC engine.
After extensive running I was dumbfounded to see cracks radiating away from the smokestack in all directions. The plastic had not really melted but rather got so hot that moved away from the stack and consequently split.
Now for the fix.
In my plumbing junk box I found a rubber plumbing washer like this:
and amazingly the center hole was the same diameter of the smokestack.
Using a forstner bit:
 
 
 
slightly smaller than the diameter of the large end of the washer I slowly drilled away the cracked plastic from the caboose roof after removing the stack.
With the hole enlarged I replaced the stack and added the rubber washer.
It covered the drilled hole and I have not needed to glue it in place.
The heat of the tube has no effect on the rubber washer.
The overall look is believable as most smokestacks would really have a similar looking rain shield at their base.
This fix worked for me...your results may vary.
Mark 
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