LC+ Mikado Running Gear Problems

Is this happening on both sides of the running gear or just on the right side?

What model # Mike are you running?

Got any pics of the issue?

Hmm I'm not doubting you (especially if you've had 3 of these.) However it's curious that I haven't seen any references to this problem before.  What kind of track are you using, and what is the radius?  Is the track level or are grades involved?

Another thought... If you pull up the parts diagrams on Lionel.com, do the LionChief Plus Mikes use the same hex screw as the TMCC and Conventional Mikados that were made before 2013?  Thanks for posting, definitely following this one.

I can take photos tomorrow if interested although it would be a bit difficult to really see the issue. I can see it with my own eyes but through a camera may make it difficult. I'm running on 0-27 and 0-42 curves with 0-31 switches. I primarily run the engine on the 0-27 loop but occasional run it on the 0-42. Also occasional trips to the club layout (think super big curves). 

Ted - Interesting idea about the screws being smaller/larger. Just checked out the Lionel parts page. 

For #6-28683, B&O Mikado Junior (conventional, early model), the screw, assuming it is the correct one (looks right) in the exploded views, measures "SHLDR SCR / HEX / .122" x .090" x 2.4 mm x .45 the"

For #6-81299, LC+ Chessie Mikado, the screw measures "SHLDR SCR / HEX / .156" x .078" x 3 mm x .5 the"

Since it appears the LC+ has a larger screw, the next magic trick will be getting a clear shot at pulling the screw out.....not an easy task it appears. I wonder, when I send it in, if Lionel would be willing to do it for me if I pay a bit extra? Hope so. 

Parts standardization used to be a Lionel strong suit.  Since the turn of the 21st Century I would give MTH higher marks in this regard (although minus points for not having all parts diagrams easily accessible on their website .)  I guess the Chinese factory contracted for this production run couldn't get the smaller screws, and thought there was enough clearance to go one size bigger?  Your findings confirm my fears... even aggressive cannibalization might not be enough to keep today's locos running in the distant future.

Rare enough in 3-rail, I notice this loco has a split chassis with a "bottom plate."  I'm actually a fan of this design.  Are the front axle bearings properly clamped between the chassis and the bottom plate?  

Not sure what you're planning to do with the screws.  If the size and thread are different you won't be able to put an old screw in the existing wheels.  You might be able to replace the front wheels and axle as a unit, and THEN use the old, smaller screws.  The part number for the side rods is the same, which is a good sign.  You also might have to cut off the "chuff cam" if there isn't a relief for it in the current model's chassis.  I would order more than one wheelset in case you mess up, or in case the quartering isn't spot-on.

[Aside: I love how you can buy as many wheelsets as you want for the older models, but for the LC+ locos, "You must contact Lionel to order."  Do they really think someone is going to hurt resale by building a counterfeit?  Cmon, parts is parts.  If you want price appreciation, buy mutual funds and leave the trains for us operators  ]

Re diameter... O27 is dead, and O36 is the new O31.  Ross (my favorite track system) doesn't even make O36 so you have to move up to O42.  For those of us in the Land of No Basements, if you don't have a McMansion with at least 18' on the long wall, you're not in the game  .  Seriously: after buying 3 of these Mikados I admire your determination!  You'll give up some slow-speed performance to the larger driving wheels and taller gearing, but if you're determined to run on O27 you might have better luck with the LC+ Pacific.  Please keep us posted with your findings.   -Ted

Rather than replacing the screw (if it is fully tightened) I just bend the drive rod so that it is slightly bowed out. That usually does the job and is not noticeable when the loco is running.

Just realized I got my directions mixed up...when the engine navigates a RIGHT hand curve, the wheels are pushed to the right slightly and just enough to bind up with the crosshead sliding back and forth. A left hand curve and a slight shift of the drivers to the left does not produce any issue. 

Ted, 

Thanks. I'm going to give Lionel a call tomorrow. I don't want to take it apart when I can give them a chance. Regardless, the issue is obvious and it is obvious it is a mechanical issue. I want it fixed first and fixed right. Don't want this coming back another day. A big issue is the design of the chassis - you have to literally fully disassemble the valve gear, cylinders, pistons, and every little thing just to get a clear shot at that screw. Always the most inaccessible one! I considered an exchange for the LC+ Pacific the first time around as I was concerned this may come back to bite me. Perhaps I should've gone for the Pacific that first time!

I can see if 0-27 is the issue. It is not since the engine stills gets caught up on 0-42. 

Roy - bending won't happen. You CAN'T bend it. It is all a solid piece. 

Oops. I was thinking of the rod and not the cross head guide.

I'm not clear here.  Does the problem occur on O27 and O42 or just O27?  I ask, because somewhere I have read that these locos really do better on O31 minimum diameter curves.

Bob, 

If you read two posts above, your answer will be there. 

I had one (don't anymore, took it apart for a project) but it had none of these problems and I ran it a lot.  Flawless little pupy=y it was, too. However, I ran it on nothing tighter than O-36, and through no switches tighter than O-60.  

I have another arriving this afternoon, if UPS's website sticks to its schedule.  I'll take a look . . .

Just called Lionel - I'll be shipping it out today. 

Yeah, nothing wrong with sending it back.  I'd recommend enclosed very specific note about what is wrong.

As I said above, I had ordered a shiny new one.  It arrived last night.  I ran it on my all-36 inch (Atlas) loop just now and it has no problems at all, and also on a circle of O-27 Lionel tubular I set up to test it, and it had no problems there either: I even picked it up and put it down in the other direction to test it running around the circle the other way and it did fine.  I think you just have a problem one: it does not seem to be an epidemic.

Looking at the screws/places on the rods, etc., that I think you are talking about h, while it would be some effort to take it apart, etc., an alternative would be to go in and just lightly grind down the screw-head/whatever where they are catching, or maybe try to insert a thin spacer, but the safe bet is just to send it to Lionel.

Good luck with it.

Thanks Lee. 

I'll be interested to hear what Lionel's Techs find. I thought about just grinding down the screw but that will be the last resort. 

So far, I've been very impressed with Lionel's service department. Another thing to note - Lionel gets a tip of the hat to the genius chassis design on these engines. According to the exploded views, a couple of screws and you can remove all of the driving wheels from the chassis. Well thought out. 

It is one of those issues that the cause and fix is obvious but your eyes start crossing together trying to figure out how to fix it!  I've got great respect for those repair guys out there. I'd lose my mind doing that. 

I find it disheartening that whatever happened after FEB 7 resulted in this.

https://ogrforum.com/t...lc-mikado-parts-loco

I'd be curious to know what Lionel did and did not do.