Light bulb

Without a picture or bulb# the most helpful information I can offer is this list of bulbs offered by the Train Tender:

https://ttender.com/partslist.html  click this link, scroll down the page, then click the link in the left column for "Bulk Light Bulbs"

Surely someone else knows the exact information, but maybe this will help get you started.  You could also contact Jeff.  His email is on the same website.

Looking at Greenberg's Repair Guide 1945-1969, the 2400 series passenger cars had 2 lighting variations.

Cars with two bulbs used number 51-300; 6 volt bayonette base (wired in series;  if one is bad, neither will light up).

Cars with a single bulb used a 57-300; 14 volt bayonette base.

SteveH nailed it. FYI #57 bulbs can often be found at auto parts stores, the #51 bulbs are not as easily found but if you have an old time auto parts store that caters to classic cars with 6volt systems they might have some. Both should be readily available from train parts suppliers as well. The -300 was Lionels addendum to a standard bulb part number.

You can purchase # 51 and 57 here;   https://stores.towncountryhobb...=featured&page=2

I was going to say, just go down to your local Western Auto- and got lost in an old memory. Now why did I go into this room???

@shorling posted:

You can purchase # 51 and 57 here;   https://stores.towncountryhobb...=featured&page=2

Thank you, Steve

and

@SteveH and thank you to you as well. I have my cars in front of me now and they are single bulb. One is missing its bulb, another has a dead bulb but it is apparently frozen into its socket and the third has a disconnected wire which I will try to solder but am having soldering iron issue right now. I will check an auto parts store, they MIGHT have it since there seems to be a number of classic car drivers and shows in the area. If that doesn't work, I found it on the link that you provided. I am using these strictly for my Christmas Tree layout and am impatient as I want to photo it. So, for now, I will cheat and put in a battery powered votive candle in each car. Now at least I know where to look in the future. Any advice on how to unfreeze them?

These were my older brother's cars, and he gave them to me a few years ago when he was downsizing. They are in beautiful condition considering their age and the fact that he was a kid when he got them.

Mikki

Boy do we miss the Ole Radio Shack down the street.

Charlie

@Mikki posted:

<snip>..another has a dead bulb but it is apparently frozen into its socket ... Any advice on how to unfreeze them?

Mikki

I can think of 2 reasons why the bulb may be stuck.

1) Being a bayonet bulb, it has two small posts sticking out of the sides.  If when it was installed, it was over rotated (more than about 1/8 turn clockwise) it could have jammed between the socket tangs.

2) If significant oxidation has accumulated between the metal bulb ferrule and socket, this could make removal more difficult.

Removal may take a bit of wiggling the bulb side to side while pushing inward and twisting counter-clockwise.  A little WD-40 on the metal part of the bulb (let it sit for a few minutes) may also help. Try to keep the WD-40 off the glass part of the bulb so that it doesn't become slippery.  Suggest orienting the car frame vertically with the bulb base down so that the WD-40 doesn't run onto the glass.  Also try to keep the WD-40 off any painted surfaces as it may change the exiting patina.

If the glass part of the bulb breaks away from the metal ferrule, grab the side of the ferrule with small needle nose pliers, push and twist to remove.

Also, it seems like many replacement lamps won't fit far enough into the bayonet sockets  because the solder blob that forms the center contact is too large. I have had to file them down more often than not.

@SteveH, thanks, I am thinking oxidation and was wondering about using WD-40. I appreciate your suggestions.

Mikki

You can use contact cleaner on the socket or brighten the center solder eyelet contact by carefully scrapping Its surface.