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Well it quit working Again! (6-12782)

I know it's a POS, But I don't want a static display and I'm not going to shelve it or throw it away. Can't sell a broken item either

Here is the latest problem, as far as I know, Control box connected to bridge via ribbon cable, and wall wort providing 14vac pwr.

When control box is switched to on, Nothing, (no lights, sound, -bridge or box-) After opening control box, there is voltage through the switch and out the ribbon cable, to the 'Main Board' in the bridge tower.

Now here is a clue, when I disconnect the cable at J4 on the Main board, the green down light will come on at the control box.

My unprofessional thought is maybe a bad transistor or maybe a bad relay or .......

So, after those pics were taken, I added an in-line fuse at the 'burned' junction, I replaced four transistors (thought maybe...), replaced On/Off switch on control box.  Re-installed main board, It worked, sort of, I was able to raise bridge to the midway point, then lower it, then fully raise it, then it Died

Yikes! What a pain!

Anybody out there care to point me in the right direction?

(main board photos attached)

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Last edited by ZAK
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Perhaps a dumb question... but IF the motor(s), gearboxes, rigging, etc., that raise and lower the span are functional, can't you "hot wire" around this motherboard and raise and lower the bridge by providing voltage to the motor(s)?  If you absolutely need command functionality, it seems like you would be able to get that with an Accessory Motor Controller (AMC).  What am I missing here?

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@Ted S posted:

Perhaps a dumb question... but IF the motor(s), gearboxes, rigging, etc., that raise and lower the span are functional, can't you "hot wire" around this motherboard and raise and lower the bridge by providing voltage to the motor(s)?  If you absolutely need command functionality, it seems like you would be able to get that with an Accessory Motor Controller (AMC).  What am I missing here?

Ted, I thought of that, But.... while it may work, one would be giving up the limit switches for the auto stops! Also, there would be No lights, Horn, Bell, or train safety.

I believe one of the people at Lionel put out diagram on how to build a non electronic controller to operate the bridge.   I think it has been on this web site more than once.  

Wow, that would be great if someone could dig that up.

Progress report: I have completed the schematic and pin out of the Control Box as well as the ribbon cable, going all the way up to the Main board in the tower (J4) Including the pin out of J4. I will post pics later on today.

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OK, Success !! The bridge goes up and down, lights work, Bell & Horn work!

Hear are some things that had to be resolved during this long drawn out process:

1) This bridge is unforgiving! It needs to be set, level and plumb with-in 1/16th of an inch + or - .

2) The 'Rear' rails Need to be isolated !! ('rear' when viewed w/ the gray ribbon cable connector to the back and left) This is just an over thought out safety feature, Bridge will not move if there is any hint of a ground (U terminal) termination)

[I have an 18" approach on either side w/ all 3 rails isolated from each other, and the connecting supply wires through to the underside of the layout]

3) The control box with it's infamous switch! The problem here is to not trust continuity, but instead leave a voltage on the switch for at least 10min. Now b/c "someone" thought it would be a good idea to mount switches and lights directly to a PCB, It now makes it that much more 'entertaining' to replace. [Why wouldn't it be designed to attach the wires directly to the devices ????

4) The ribbon cable from controller, through the left tower all the way up to the main board. With a very small screw driver I ended up setting each pin in a connector individually! [i.e. I pushed down, gingerly, on every mating pin in a connector] Found two loose connections !!!

5) That ill conceived "Main Board" in the tower. If you see any discolored traces on the board, bypass them ASAP!

6) (maybe the last) The dreaded IR sensors, [limit switches] in the tower. They'll stop the up and down movement, when working!

In conclusion; We can only hope the string doesn't break!

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Thanks Vernon!

I did check the gear box. I re-greased the gears and re-oiled the bushings. The white nylon gear seemed fine.

Speaking of the nylon gear, I assume it was made out of this material to take the brunt of the wear and therefore replaceable

Which leads me to believe there are replacements out there! Or maybe some one with a 3D printer can make some

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