In my never ending quest to get the right parts before I start this project, I found a board I think I can use. Will this work, I also found this, not sure which would be less work. The Rear A and B units each have steam motherboards in them. It looks like the board from the PWC F3 would be a drop in for the board in the F7s I have. Also I'm not sure if I can get the sound card from the Powered F7A #1684 is there a card that has the same horn as that one? A video on my set in included. I know I could send the set off to someone to do the work but I really want to learn how to do this. Thanks for the help.
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First off, what board are you trying to show us? Your links take us to the parts breakdown for a complete unit. You need a different motherboard to support sounds in that unit, I guess that's what you're asking. Either of the two engines listed have boards that are TMCC compatible.
You need to be more specific as to what you're planning...
The board I'd like to use is part number 691MB0017A the motherboard in the non powered units is part number 691MB07C01 I'd like to add sounds to the rear units in the easiest way possible in particular not having to rewire the units to do it. I'm wondering if the first board I mentioned will basically just take the place of the board that's in there now. After that I just need a sound card, which is another trouble spot as I can't get the sound card for the powered unit.
Sad to say, it's not nearly that simple. In order to use sound in a non-powered unit, you have to retain the R4LC and add two extra boards, the RS5.5 sound board and the RS power supply board. Obviously to do this, you need a motherboard that will support all the boards. You can use items #19 through #22 from this Legacy F7, but it will obviously require rewiring.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Sad to say, it's not nearly that simple. In order to use sound in a non-powered unit, you have to retain the R4LC and add two extra boards, the RS5.5 sound board and the RS power supply board. Obviously to do this, you need a motherboard that will support all the boards. You can use items #19 through #22 from this Legacy F7, but it will obviously require rewiring.
Alright so I'll have to rewire after all. Question for you, where can I get the white connector plugs for the boards? Also will the board from the PWC F unit handle the smoke feature since my non powered units smoke.
All the connectors used there are available from local distribution. They are JST EH Connectors, the contacts needed are on the page for each size connector, and there are pre-crimped wires available as well. I use the Engineer PA-09 Crimp Tool to crimp these.
You'll have to be more specific as to which F-Unit you're asking about. Legacy units use a smoke regulator, so you'd have to add that and wire it in.
gunrunnerjohn posted:All the connectors used there are available from local distribution. They are JST EH Connectors, the contacts needed are on the page for each size connector, and there are pre-crimped wires available as well. I use the Engineer PA-09 Crimp Tool to crimp these.
You'll have to be more specific as to which F-Unit you're asking about. Legacy units use a smoke regulator, so you'd have to add that and wire it in.
Thanks. Looks like I have some work to do. Just wondering about keeping the smoke control on the cab 2.
It's obviously possible to keep the smoke control, you just have to add the components that do the job. The primary component will be a Legacy smoke controller, and of course the matching smoke unit. You can see the parts from this Legacy F7 Powered B.
gunrunnerjohn posted:It's obviously possible to keep the smoke control, you just have to add the components that do the job. The primary component will be a Legacy smoke controller, and of course the matching smoke unit. You can see the parts from this Legacy F7 Powered B.
By the legacy smoke controller do you mean the A.C. regulator? If so, thats already in both of the units.
Well, if you have the Legacy smoke regulator, you also have a matching smoke unit I would imagine. So, just getting it properly wired into the new motherboard connections is all that will be required.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, if you have the Legacy smoke regulator, you also have a matching smoke unit I would imagine. So, just getting it properly wired into the new motherboard connections is all that will be required.
Yep. So that's all set. Now only one thing in needed a F7 sound card. I'd like the card from the powered A unit from the set (6-34511) but it says its unavailable, any idea if I can get it or should I just find a different card?
I'd look for a different card, but you can contact Lionel just to see if you can get it. Sometimes they have them squirreled away and can supply them.
gunrunnerjohn posted:I'd look for a different card, but you can contact Lionel just to see if you can get it. Sometimes they have them squirreled away and can supply them.
Sounds good, you think the sound card from the Lionel WP F7s (6-34513) will be a good substitute?
Hard to say without hearing it. I'd do some looking around on Youtube and see if you can find a video of the engine(s) in question and see what the audio sounds like.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Hard to say without hearing it. I'd do some looking around on Youtube and see if you can find a video of the engine(s) in question and see what the audio sounds like.
Will do.
gunrunnerjohn posted:All the connectors used there are available from local distribution. They are JST EH Connectors, the contacts needed are on the page for each size connector, and there are pre-crimped wires available as well. I use the Engineer PA-09 Crimp Tool to crime these.
Are these the pre-crimped wires you were talking about?
They have both pre-crimped wires and the bare contacts.
I use the contacts as in 100 quantity they're only 3 cents each.
If you're going for the pre-crimped contacts, I'd go for the 12" ones so you don't have to do a lot of splicing.
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gunrunnerjohn posted:They have both pre-crimped wires and the bare contacts.
I use the contacts as in 100 quantity they're only 3 cents each.
If you're going for the pre-crimped contacts, I'd go for the 12" ones so you don't have to do a lot of splicing.
Thanks.