We are having a problem with a MTH Genset going through Ross #4 turnouts. The lead pickup roller drops between the rails when it is transition to the curved side of the turnout. This either causes a derailment when the roller gets stuck or a dead short. No problems with other engines doing this. The Genset pick up rollers seem smaller than those on other engines, Any thoughts?
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We are having a problem with a MTH Genset going through Ross #4 turnouts. The lead pickup roller drops between the rails when it is transition to the curved side of the turnout. This either causes a derailment when the roller gets stuck or a dead short. No problems with other engines doing this. The Genset pick up rollers seem smaller than those on other engines, Any thoughts?
I did notice on my new GP35 PS3 engine that the rollers where indeed smaller...width wise than an older 2006 GP38 PS2 engine. I know the Gensets are PS2, but recent PS2. Maybe newer PS2 and PS3 pickup rollers changed in size. I can see where this would present a problem.
kgsouth,
You are seeing why I can not run my pre-war Tin plate trains on Ross switches,
its seems this MTH engine has similar engineering. It was a big disappointment to me also, its the engineering reason I must use the old Lionel 711, 072 and the K-Line Super Snap switches, on my FasTrack layout, they are the only switches made that will accommodate all my trains on a repetative basis.
PCRR/Dave
With my latest Genset (Alaska RR), we--meaning my dealer and I--found a problem with the coupler lift bar not clearing the bottom of the frame on curves, even wide-diameter curves. It was a relatively easy fix to do by bending the lift bar handles a bit so things would clear properly. My lift bar still doesn't quite look 100% correct in its "relaxed" position, but the engine does operate on all curves down to O36.
The, by the way, is the latest PS3 version.
I'm not quite sure just where your problem is located on the switch, BUT:
Well, y'know that you could shape some brass or steel (if you need conductivity) or
a plastic (if you need insulation) to make those pesky rollers do what you want (not
snag or drop), and not interfere with anything else. Paint where appropriate.
Be model railroaders; use your hands; pick up a tool. Manufacturers don't always pro-
duce just what you need.
Atlas switches grab the rollers on K-line E-8's; a filler piece fixed it.
My Lionel scale 0-8-0 was dying on a new-style GG switch, "for no reason". Hah. My track is painted, and, while the tops were cleaned to surgical sterility, the sides have paint
on them, and when the roller JUST dipped into the open space on the "center piece"...all it hit was paint.
I cleaned the sides of the rails a bit. No problem. Took an hour to find it, and 20 seconds to fix it.
D500, you are absolutely right. This can be done. I knew if I posted this someone would lie my fire with a great idea Thanks. KG
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