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After dipping my toes in the "3-rail Scale" waters by adding Kadee couplers to a few Weaver 3-rail freight cars last month, I decided it's time to try to convert a diesel.  The locomotive choice for my first attempt at fixed pilots and Kadees is a MTH RailKing Jersey Central SW1 switcher. 

 

Although I'm only partially finished with this project, I figured I would share some photos of my progress so far.  I will continue to update this thread with new photos until the project is completed. 

 

It's been a lot of work, probably more than I would have guessed as it seems that one thing (or issue) keeps leading to another (challenge)!  However, like so many of these first-time projects, I'm having a lot of fun...and certainly learning a LOT.  It should be easier next time around!

 

Please feel free to add your comments and/or ask any questions!

 

NOTE:  Scroll down through this thread to see updated posts and progress photos!

 

Here a few "BEFORE" photos of the CNJ SW1.  If you haven't see one of these, it is "scale-sized" and has a surprising amount of detail despite being in the MTH RailKing line.  It's a nice little engine!

 

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Here are a few conversion progress photos...

 

Front spacer installed, pilot "fixed" (attached) to frame and Kadee coupler installed...

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Rear pilot "fixed" and filled in, Kadee installed and footboards extended.  Ready for sanding and priming...

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Truck sideframes were moved inward, closer to the wheelsets...

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Last edited by CNJ #1601
Original Post

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Updated 9/26/15:

 

Here are some more progress photos as of this morning.  As you can see, both pilots (front and rear) are now "fixed", the large pilot openings have been filled in, foot boards extended, Kadees installed and both ends have been sanded, primed and painted.  Whew!!

 

The Tru-Color "Jersey Central Deep Sea Green" paint is very glossy, so next up is the application of a flat, clear finish to blend the old (original) and new paint finishes together...and then I can begin the weathering process.

 

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Last edited by CNJ #1601

Thanks, Tom!  I made the spacers out of sheet styrene.  I had to "laminate" a few sheets of varying thickness to get the exact measurement needed to fill the space.

 

After laminating, I used the locomotive frame and pilot as templates to draw the basic outline of the spacer, then cut it out.  This was followed by lots of sanding.

 

After the spacer was installed, I THEN used plastic putty to hide the seams/joints the best I could...followed by a lot more sanding after the putty thoroughly set-up (dried)!!

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
Looks great Joey...and will look even better once the weathering is done. Fixed pilots are so much work, but sooo worth it when it's all done.

Thanks, LOS!  As I told you recently, your scale-coupler work and "how-to" videos--along with Mario's (Central Fan)--have provided me with the inspiration to finally try this, so your comments are very much appreciated!

Last edited by CNJ #1601
Originally Posted by rail:

This question ids for anyone, does this modification affect the turning radius of the engine? My smallest radius is O54.

Don

Thanks, 86TA355SR, Ron & 69nickey!  Don, the short answer is "Yes"...at least in this case anyway. 

 

The long answer is that there are several steps you can take to minimize the negative impact on turning radius.  Earlier in this thread I mentioned the amount of work involved in this project, and that one thing seemed to lead to another. 

 

By working (and re-working!) the truck block, truck sideframes, locomotive frame and Kadee coupler boxes, I was able to make this engine run on O-42 track.  It may even handle O-36 or O-31, but I don't have any of that on my small layout to give it a try.

Originally Posted by AG - River Leaf Models:

i cut all my kadee pins when I was 3 rail, because in some cases was touching the center rail a little, not enough even to stop the engine or even hesitate, but the spring were frien both of them, so use plastic gearbox or cut the pins.

Andre.

Thank you very much, Malcolm & Matt!

 

Andre, I was thinking about installing some of the Kadee delayed uncoupling magnets when I build my new 3-rail layout.  Would cutting the Kadee pins off prevent the magnets from doing their job?

Don't cut the pins off if you are switching!

 

Coupler height is critical for proper operation.

 

 

If you're couplers are the correct height, the pins will not touch the rails. Sometimes the pins on the 800 series couplers need to be bent upward even when the couplers are the correct height. If you are using the 700 series, the pins have been bent at Kadee. You will notice a small shiny spot at the end of the pin where they put it in a machine or something to bend it up just a tad. They did not do that to the 800's, hence needing a little bend sometimes.

 

No pin, no uncoupling with magnets.

 

Also be very careful when putting paint on the couplers if your are going to use them for switching. The paint effects their operation. I stopped painting couplers if I knew I was going to switch with that equipment. The stick, not to say real couplers don't stick once in awhile  but it just becomes a hassle.

Last edited by Former Member

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