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Below are some photos showing the construction evolution and finished version of my current standard gauge layout. As you can see in the last photos it is mostly done. The only thing left to do is to add some “life” to the layout, meaning people. This can be done at my leisure over time.

 

Last year saw some radical changes in my life. I got married and moved to a newer, larger house with a large, unfinished basement that did not really have any function other than to let the kids have a place to run around in when they were younger. The basement was finished throughout last year with the ceiling being installed right after I returned from my honeymoon. My previous layout was in the second floor of my old house, a 1-1/2 story Bungalow with a single, large second floor room.

 

All of my current standard gauge trains are reproduction MTH PS2 models that I operate with the DCS system. I enjoy the look of new tinplate trains with their glossy finish and their smooth, quiet operating motors. The accessories are both Lionel and MTH. I would like to have an original Lionel set or two for display purposes and to honor the heritage of standard gauge trains but it’s not a priority for me at this time.

 

I started the layout design process like most people do by developing a track plan. My original goal was to have a combination o-gauge / standard gauge layout. I worked for months trying to integrate the two gauges into one layout. I was not impressed with anything that I could come up with. As we worked hard to finish the basement and the room began to take on a different look, I took a different approach. I separated the two gauges and decided to make the standard gauge layout an island style layout with display shelves along three sides. Looking at the track plan below, the display shelves are built in and are located along the top and right sides. The three shorter sides along the bottom are open to allow for storage but they have since been covered with curtains. The layout is a divider between the family home entertainment section and the area where both train layouts will be located. The display shelves are positioned so that anyone sitting in the home entertainment section will be able to see the trains.

 

The track plan is pretty simple and was developed around two basic principles: use all of the accessories that I have and be able to operate two trains at a time. I did buy a few more trackside signals and lights once I began operating to fill in a few small areas or to add interest while trains are running. I also decided near the end of the design process to eliminate as many switches as possible to allow for smooth running and less problems with trains tracking through the switch. I have noticed that many of the new American Flyer or Ives reproduction trains do not track well through O42 tinplate switches that are offered by MTH. The inside loop consists of O42 and O72 curves, the outer loop O57 and O84 curves.

 

 

 

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I am fortunate that my wife does not have problems with my trains or the fact that 1/3 of the basement will be train layouts. She does, however, object to large piles of cardboard train boxes. So one criteria of the bench work is to allow for ample storage. Another was to use as much lumber from my previous train layout in the construction as possible. I’m a firm believer in “green” construction and reusing everything that I can. It makes good sense in many ways, not just in how much money I keep in my wallet.

 

The table top itself consists of a layer of chipboard covered with acoustical ceiling tiles for sound deadening. The final layer is dark green carpet that helps accentuate the colors of the standard gauge accessories. I like the early standard gauge era colors of green and cream more than the later red and silver so most of my accessories reflect the early era. I’m a little more flexible with my trackside signals and lights so just about anything that looks good will do.

 

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The whole construction process, from the first board being cut to the final coat of paint started the day after Thanksgiving and ended December 23rd! I had not planned on finishing before Christmas but my wife said that it would be great to have the layout complete by Christmas since we were entertaining the entire day and all of the families would have a chance to see it.

 

I have great fun taking a few moments out of each day, heading downstairs and running the trains. As I am sure most will agree it is great stress relief after a long day at the office.

 

Update: 02-07-2013:

 

Below are two pics showing the curtains on the other side of the layout. They very simple cafe rods with a single curtain each. The fabric was bought on sale at Joanne's and the cafe rods were purchased at Joanne's too and are very inexpensive.

 

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In other news, I switched trains and found the Stephen Gerard cars do not run well through the O42 switches and would derail. So, I removed one switch and changed another O42 to an O72 switch. That seems to have solved the problem!

 

Update: 02-11-2013

 

I added two pictures of the church. My father brought this over when he came to see the layout for the first time. He picked this up at a local train show in Berea. It looks very much like the church that my parents were married in, and not coincidentally, is the same church that I got married in! It's not tinplate (its made for G gauge) but it holds its own very nicely! I need to add some lights to it.

 

 

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Andrew

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Last edited by andrew
Original Post

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Thanks for all of the nice comments.

 

I will add that I've had some fun researching and installing some of the trackside signals. The MTH repro signals have a small circuit board in them that allows the 80, 99N and 78 signals to stop a train when it enters an insulated track section. There is a built in timer that restarts the train after a period of time so that it can continue on its way. The signals have to operated this way to allow for all of the colored lamps to be used in the signal. I chose to "gut" them and operate the bulbs using an insulated track and a 12V relay. This allows me to operate trains continuously without them having to stop and gives me the flexibility to operate the bulbs in a somewhat prototypical manner. I know, prototypical and standard gauge aren't really used often in the same sentence but I like to use my signals correctly!

 

Andrew

 

 
Harm,
 
Thanks for nice comments.
 
The overall dimensions are about 13-2" x 8'-6". The actual dimensions are shown in the plan view drawing if you click on it.
 
Looking at the drawing of the plan view, all of the sides of the layout at the bottom are simply closed off with curtains. The wife and I went to Joanne's a picked up some fabric that looked good and was on sale. Like I state, the storage aspect was important and I even have a little to spare for an additional purchase or two!
 
Andrew
 
 
 
 
 
Originally Posted by Andrews-s-c:

Great Job, Andrew.  I love the nice clean look to your layout.  What are the actual dimensions of it?  Roger told me he would bring pictures in, but your pictures blew me away.  How do you access under the table?  I'd like to add shelving under my layout the way you did.

 

Harm Andrews

Andrews Shopping Center

 

Thanks to everyone for the nice comments. I updated the original post to add pictures of the curtains on the other side of the layout.

 

As for the construction, I relied heavily on two new tools that I added to my arsenal this past year: a 10" Craftsman Miter Saw and a cordless DeWalt battery drill. This is the first time that I have owned either tool and highly recommend them to anyone.

 

Andrew

Terry,
 
Good luck with the chain saw!
 
If you look at the very first picture the o gauge layout will be directly behind the bench along the wall. It will follow the wall to the left past the left edge of the photo. The space that I have for the layout is about 29' x 9'. I'm still tweaking the track plan to see how I can fit all of my "wants and gotta haves" into the space I have. I run scale trains so I won't have as much action as some may like in terms of switching or loops but I'm okay with this.
 
Andrew
 
Originally Posted by terry hudon:

A.i want to head to my basement with a chainsaw,B where do the o gauge trains run? terry

Andrew, a suggestion for the MTH 042 turnouts...
Sometimes the problem can be a relationship between truck wheel gauge and the check rail spacing. That is, the wheels on a truck may slide along the axle creating a more narrow gauge. The check rail clearance on MTH 042 turnouts is pretty big so tight gauge wheels will hop.

I have had problems with car wheels hopping check rails and solved it by gluing a thin strip of wood inside the check rail to reduce the clearance and keep the truck on track. The MTH turnouts really do need to be tweaked for the specific equipment you are running.

But your swap worked so as long as you can run Gerad cars OK...

Oh, and the layout looks good from the other side too.

Bert
 
Bert,
 
This is a good suggestion. In my experience the Flyer passenger and freight cars have a lot of lateral play between the wheels and the axles. They seam to operate smoothly in all of the switches. Ironically, the Gerard cars have very little play and I think this is the problem. The switches may not be true to gauge and when the Gerard car enters the switch just right it tries to walk up the rail, causing the problem. So, after replacing the problem O42 turnout with an O72 turnout the problem has gone away.
 
Andrew
 
 
Originally Posted by MrNabisco:
Andrew, a suggestion for the MTH 042 turnouts...
Sometimes the problem can be a relationship between truck wheel gauge and the check rail spacing. That is, the wheels on a truck may slide along the axle creating a more narrow gauge. The check rail clearance on MTH 042 turnouts is pretty big so tight gauge wheels will hop.

I have had problems with car wheels hopping check rails and solved it by gluing a thin strip of wood inside the check rail to reduce the clearance and keep the truck on track. The MTH turnouts really do need to be tweaked for the specific equipment you are running.

But your swap worked so as long as you can run Gerad cars OK...

Oh, and the layout looks good from the other side too.

Bert

Interesting the 42 to 72 turnout change worked. There have been many discussions about the MTH 72 turnout and tweaking that has been done. Most of the discussions stated the 42 turnout worked well and the 72 is the problem. 

 

My Flyer stuff and others bounce on the 72 turnouts. The problem is the flange hitting the guard rail and riding up. Not causing a derail but a good bounce.

 

I have 3 choices. Live with it. Tweak the turnouts. Replace with Ross turnouts.

Jim,
 
Regarding problems with the O72 switches, I have read those reports too and, given how finicky the reproduction tinplate stuff operates (my family and I have MANY stories to tell but that's a different thread) I believe they have merit. I will say that part of the fun of running even the reproduction trains is finding solutions to problems.Our hobby is a marriage of electrical and mechanical systems. They don't operate in harmony all the time.
 
One problem I have had with the O42 turnouts is trains causing direct shorts while running through. ALL of my switches have a small piece of electrical tape along both sides of the center, tear drop shaped strip. The source of the short was determined to be the large amount of lateral play in the wheels and axles of some cars. While running through the switch there is enough movement to cause the wheel to contact the center strip. Makes you wonder, did this stuff happen 80 years ago?
 
I looked at Ross switches for standard gauge too but couldn't handle the looks.I really like the look of the original style switches so chose the MTH ones.
 
Andrew
 
Originally Posted by F&G RY:

Interesting the 42 to 72 turnout change worked. There have been many discussions about the MTH 72 turnout and tweaking that has been done. Most of the discussions stated the 42 turnout worked well and the 72 is the problem. 

 

My Flyer stuff and others bounce on the 72 turnouts. The problem is the flange hitting the guard rail and riding up. Not causing a derail but a good bounce.

 

I have 3 choices. Live with it. Tweak the turnouts. Replace with Ross turnouts.

Joe,
 
A added a few pictures of the church to the original post at the bottom under the 02-11-2013 update.
 
Spence,
 
Thanks for the kind comment. I enjoy woodworking though I don't do a lot of it.
 
Andrew
 
Originally Posted by Joe Lyons:

Andrew,

 

Your layout is terrific.  

 

The Church looks real neat.  Is that something you made yourself?  Can you give some close up pictures of it?

 

Thanks.

 

Joe

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