I have no "chuff" coming from my 763e Hudson, 6-18056 with Vanderbuilt tender. I replaced the reed switch that is suppose to control the "chuff" but still nothing. My smoke unit works, lights work, steam sounds work, but no "chuffing" The reed switch I replace still had a good solid "click" when the reed was depressed. The alternating arm that activates the smoke "puff" and the "chuff" operates freely (no binding). What else could be the cause of this problem???
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This is only my thoughts on this, but I have seen where the problem was the cam on the axle that operates the chuff switch, was slightly cracked and when it came in contact with the switch it would just sit there. With the engine on the track and power on, you should be able to actuate the switch manually and see if the chuff sounds return. This engine is about 16 years old and the plastic cam is likely the problem...
Marty
I can and have activated the switch by "hand" with a tooth-pick. Also, I ran the engine real slow and observed the switch being fully activated by the "arm" (cam) and still no chuff. The arm that activates the reed switch is metal, not really a cam. The other end of this arm activates the smoke "puff" mechanism.
If you've measured the switch and are sure it's closing, I'd be looking at the wiring and connections to the motherboard in the tender. Remember, that switch has to go through the tether as well, lots of places for the contact closure to get lost. 
This engine has a tether-less connection to the tender. I wondering if the board in the locomotive might have a short (crack) in one of the printed circuits.
I checked the old reed switch with a meter and it was not defective, sooo....I replaced a perfectly good "old" reed switch with a new "good" reed switch. 
Now that you mention the tether...I will check to see if the light beam is functioning in the tether-less. Didn't think to do that.
On occasion a slight misalignment between the engine and tender pieces of the wireless tether can occur, or the little windows on the tether boxes get dirty, resulting in the infrared signal between the two pieces being interrupted. Carefully and gently clean the plastic windows on each piece of the wireless tether with a damp Q-tip, then make sure the engine drawbar is properly hooked into the tender drawbar slot and the wireless tether boxes are lined up. You can test this when your engine is working properly by inserting a piece of paper between the two boxes, thereby interrupting the infrared signal. With the signal blocked and the engine moving very slowly, exhaust chuff will cease. Phil
With the signal blocked and the engine moving very slowly, exhaust chuff will cease. Phil
Of course, he has none now, so it's already ceased. 
Is there any way to see if the infrared bulb is firing? I think that is where my problem is.
The infrared bulb wiring harness connects to a socket in the engine frame just behind the rear drivers. I think the socket is bad.
Well, I'd stick a 'scope on the sensor, but I'm not sure failing that. Does the whistle and bell work? If so, I'd think the IR is working, those commands would be coming from the R2LC in the locomotive.
Whistle and bell both work. If the whistle and bell signals are transmitted by the infrared bulb then the I-F is working. The problem may be in the R2LC board in the locomotive. I might have a bad connection in the little connector that plugs into the R2LC board.
Do the wires just pull out of the "little" connectors (sockets)? I don't know what the correct term is for the "plugs and sockets" are they called...micro-something???
Lets try this again.... This is definitely worth a shot.
I agree with Gregg, since the IR appears to be working, I'd be looking elsewhere.
Do you have continuity all the way from the switch to the IR transmitter board? I'd be making sure ALL of the wiring from the switch is intact. My gut tells me this has to be in the locomotive, the tender is just making the noise on command.
740 J1E Hudson (6-18056) & SF Warhorse Hudson (6-18062) NOTE! Both loco and tender must be on the track.
Don't ask me why John...
If the re-program will not help as Gregg suggested. I ask you to try firing the coil coupler. Check the back-up light. Check both static and running.
Bill
Checked the continuity from the switch to the board...OK.
Did the reprogram suggestion...first time didn't take...probably operator error!
Reprogramed again...fired off the coupler as suggested (worked)...started the engine in operation and WALLA...the chuff was back!!!
A Mighty Thanks to all for the help and suggestions, it is greatly appreciated!
Great, and it was simple.
Hello all!
I have the same issue with a conventional 0-8-0, with Trainsounds and wireless drawbar. Is there a way to "reset" this?
Thanks,
Mario
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