PS3 problem

By PS-3 Upgrade I assume this is the PS-32 board from the kit.  I would make sure the 5 pin connector fully installed.  Make sure the daughter board fully seated at 8 pin side.  After that take back to OGF sponsor to test board.  May have lost a motor fet.  G

G,  I've checked connectors  not being seated, etc.; I suspected a board issue but without a schematic it is a proverbial "black box." I guess I'll be seeing Dave at Mercer Junction, he can test the thing;  the motor FET  is the likely culprit. My other hobby is  amateur radio  (K0ZP).  Trains and amateur radio gear have become very similar vis-a-vis what makes them work.  Far to tiny for 66 year old eyes to repair!   Thanks for your response.

So I hope I'm doing the correct thing by adding to this post and if not I do apologize.

About a year ago I was in the midst of really getting into the o gauge scene. As with most of us, my first set was a PE starter set. Well the fever quickly grew and I started my hunt for a diesel loco, more track, etc.

Well my uneducated search lead me to a Lionel Factory Refurbished UP GP38 w/LC+ (INSERT POOP EMOJI) and at first all was ok, the unit came damaged (I am the reason Lionel added a discalmer that the Refurbished locos were 100% mechanically but not physically, the never said that last part until I complained about it to them). After a bit of use the engine started to give me intermointer issues like no smoke or rapid takeoff, so I decided I was done with LC+ and that I was going to go command from now on. Well I purchased a PS2 Diesel and fell in love with it and MTH. Next step was to purchase DCS, check. Next I decided to sink my teeth I to a PS3 Upgrade kit for the POS LC engine.

Let me start off by saying, it worked. I may not be a MTH Certified Rapair Guy or Gal but I do know more than enough about electronics that I wasn't even nervous. Well after everything worked for a few weeks, the smoke unit stops working, pull the shell off to find my connection to be solid but where the connector hits the smoke unit, it was loose. Pushed it tight and was working perfectly. Decided to test before putting the body on and of course she ran like a top. Now here is where my story turns for the worse. I put the shell back on, put the loco on the track, apply power and...................

That is where my story ends. The unit never woke up again. No click no nothing just a faint humm and that is all. I pulled to shell to find out had pinched a motor wire and it shorted with the can of the motor.

My question is, is that it for me? Is this board Seriously done for? $200 down the toilet? Seems to me, and of course I mean this with all do respect but this could have happened to anyone including an MTH CERT TECH, NO?

I just feel as if these electronics are so sensitive, literally killed $200 because of a pinched wire that just so happened to be in a narrow part of the shell.

From what my friend GRJ and others have said, it looks like I'm up a creek without a paddle but I guess I just either needed to vent and or wanted to see what you 3 rail geniuses think are my options.

Thanks for listening and as always I hope this post helps many!

Thanks

Daniel Gonzalez

Daniel,

That would definitely fry a board. Every time a shell comes off of a locomotive, wire management is always my main priority when the shell goes back on. I'm not an MTH Certified tech either so the upgrade kits I install are on me if something goes south. Knowing this, I am extremely careful when installing, checking every single wire and doing the best I can to visualize how & where wires are placed when the shell is installed. The worst thing I've had happen so far is a pair of fried marker lights because the motor flywheel rubbed on them.

So for your loss, wire management can sometimes be an expensive lesson to learn.

H1000 posted:

Daniel,

That would definitely fry a board. Every time a shell comes off of a locomotive, wire management is always my main priority when the shell goes back on. I'm not an MTH Certified tech either so the upgrade kits I install are on me if something goes south. Knowing this, I am extremely careful when installing, checking every single wire and doing the best I can to visualize how & where wires are placed when the shell is installed. The worst thing I've had happen so far is a pair of fried marker lights because the motor flywheel rubbed on them.

So for your loss, wire management can sometimes be an expensive lesson to learn.

 

No doubt I learned my lesson my friend 😢

Main motor or smoke motor wire got pinched?  Once cleared still dead?  Normally a pinched motor wire won't do that, but anything is possible.  G

GGG posted:

Main motor or smoke motor wire got pinched?  Once cleared still dead?  Normally a pinched motor wire won't do that, but anything is possible.  G

Hello GGG,

It was the rear main motor to be exact.

Yes, I cut out the bad section and re-soldered and heat shruck the area. Put the engine on the track, shell off, and nothing but a lite humm that would go away the more voltage o would apply to the track. I had a CW-80 at the time, I know I know that's embarrassing but true. I shortly after got DCS and a PH 180 and tried again, DCS doesn't even recognize the engine.

I'm 100% sure that is what killed the board. It was obvious where the spark marked the can, it wasn't huge but it was visible.

As usual, thank you for your time and your help. It means a lot.

Thanks!

Just an FYI, PS3 boards don't click on power up I believe.