Question regarding mounting Glenn Snyder (GSDS) shelving to metal studs.

Chris,

    I have installed the Glen Snyder shelves and am very glad I did.  Also, I have been in construction for more years than I care to admit, before I retired last year.  I would recommend the use of self taping sheet metal screws for attachment to metal studs.  They are used all the time for the erection and installation of metal studs.  Depending upon the sizing of the drywall, wood, or whatever the overlay material is, obtain the self taping sheet metal screws of proper length to ensure sufficient thread depth into the metal studs.  Most self tap metal screws have a six sided head for use of a socket driver, most are sized in the 1/4 inch dimension range.

Hope this helps.

Jesse

Chris , what Jesse told you is correct .  You may want to drill a small pilot hole  in the wall after you drill the holes in you GSS shelving I think that the self tapping screws will hold just fine .Your going to really like that Glen Snyder shelving . Jim

(1.)  Do you know the gauge/thickness of your studs?? Metal studs are different thicknesses.  Some are very thin metal, can be easily drilled with out a drill tip screw. 

IMO you want at least the 20 gauge (Structural) stud. Blocking would be a plus. IMO

(2.)   Drywall attachment to metal studs or wood also involves adhesives for additional holding power. 

(3.) Are the studs 16" on center, (4 to 5 screws per 6 ft. shelf ) or 24" on center( 3 to 4 screws per 6 ft. shelf).  Commercial installation you will often see carpenters installing blocking for shelving or cabinets to be installed. 

(4.) Standard drywall screws are #6 or #8   Glenn Snyder shelving recommends # 10 X 1 1/2".  E-mail or call Glenn Snyder with your question.

From the GSDS website Installation instructions.

Glenn Snyder Display Systems are easy to install. You will need the following tools: An electric drill, 1/8" and 3/16" drill bits, a level, #10 x 1-1/2" round head, pan head or truss head sheet metal screws for each stud and spacing blocks. Spacing blocks should be as high as the distance between the shelves, generally between 5-1/2" or 6" for O gauge. Studs are usually located 16" or 24" apart on center. Electrical outlets are generally attached to the side of a stud, which is the easiest way to locate one, or may be found with a magnetic stud finder.

Installation Instructions: Using the level, draw a line where you would like the bottom shelf to be located. Locate the studs along this line. Mark the stud spacing and transfer the marks to the back of the shelf. Using the 3/16"drill bit, drill clearance holes in the shelf from the back, using the groove to locate the tip of the drill bit. Using the1/8" drill bit, drill pilot holes in the studs and fasten your shelf with the #10 x 1-1/2" long sheet metal screws. (We use them instead of wood screws as they are threaded to the top of the screw giving them more fastening power.) Once the bottom shelf is fastened, place the spacing blocks on the top of the rails, equal distance apart. Place the next shelf on top of the blocks and mark where each fastener hole is to be drilled. Remove the shelf, drill the holes in the shelf and in the studs and attach the second shelf. Continue installing the shelving by using the spacing blocks until installation is complete.

Use of Connecting Pins: On walls where longer shelves are needed or uneven areas, use the connecting pins that are supplied. Tap ends of pins open with a center punch or similar tool. Slide one end onto a rail and gently tap it with a hammer until the pin is all the way on the rail. Take the second shelf and locate the open end of the pin on the Corresponding rail. Tap the pin halfway back until the two shelves meet, then fasten the shelf to the wall. If your walls are uneven, place screws through washers where needed between the shelf and the wall until the shelving remains straight when the screws are tightened.

Contact Glenn Snyder about the metal studs.

Glenn Snyder Display Systems
260 Oak Street
Buffalo, NY 14203

1 877 852 4676

Fax 1 716 852 4677

Stainless, Slotted Screws look a lot more professional, AND they won't rust!!

Just a suggestion!!

Fred

The plus side of metal studs,  most likely the wall will be straight, compared to wood studs.  Even on custom (cut) shorter shelves (3) screws minimum, Metal or wood studs. . 

Mike CT

Hi Chris, if you have the H/D consumer studs I would not hand anything heavy on them. maybe some plastic rolling stock, not heavy engines. you will get 1 shot at setting the screw without stripping it. when shooting through sheetrock the screw will sink in the set depth and the driver will disengage before enough stress is applied to strip the screw. hanging metal shelves does not give you that sink and disengage, especially on low quality H/D studs.  to support the weight of engines like your centipede you will have to make every screw count. we can speak at the club and I can give you some options.

With thin metal studs, some type of wall anchor might be a good idea for added support. I agree with Mytrains above, the thin metal can strip very easily.

Thanks everyone for your input.  Not sure this is going to work out.  I guess I'll be experimenting a little bit as the seems to be no consensus.  Maybe I'll try to figure out how to use some anchors.

If the holes in the shelf are in a location that will cover up a larger hole in the wall, a small toggle bolt might work well. Those will allow for adjustment of the shelf as well as providing good holding power on the stud. There are many other anchors to choose from though.

I think that this from the instructions Mike CT posted will  provide some insight:  

"...and fasten your shelf with the #10 x 1-1/2" long sheet metal screws. (We use them instead of wood screws as they are threaded to the top of the screw giving them more fastening power.)"

The 1.5 inch screws recommended are based on the full threaded length having something to grab onto.  With metal studs you would be lucky to have 2 threads gripping the stud.  

In this application I would look into using toggle bolts, as these will securely hold your shelves in place without fear if you place them through the studs.  

One more thing that does not have anything to do with the metal studs, but with shelving in general.  Standard drywall screws are a very poor choice for anything load bearing.  You can get away with using them by overbuilding in many cases, but they have a major flaw for load bearing applications.  Drywall screws have a very low shearing strength.  Under stress the heads will break off or the shaft will break, which is not good in shelving.  Instead you can use 'deck screws' these are made for load bearing applications such as deck joists, and have a high shear strength, so they are perfect for holding up shelving.  

JGL

Thanks again everyone for all the advice.  A little more hunting on the internet came up with Snap Toggles as a good way to hang shelving on metal studs.   I might buy a few and try them out. A little expensive but considering the cost of shelving and the cost of some engines hitting the floor well worth it seems.

Snap Toggles

I'll add my two cents here.  Experience has taught me that driving self tapping screws into light gauge metal studs can be tricky, which has already been pointed out by some of our other experienced members.  I have found that toggle bolts hold extremely well in drywall.  They can be a bit more labor intensive, but I challenge you to an experiment.  Fasten a test shelf to a drywall partition with two 3/16" diameter screws having toggle wings on them.  Now try to pull the shelf off the wall.  Do the same thing with self tapping screws screwing them into the metal studs.  

A trick I learned, early on in my career, was to use an awl.  Using the awl tap it into the drywall and into the metal stud.  Just enough to give you a small starter hole in the metal.  Then drive a normal drywall screw into the hole.

What the awl does in bend the metal over around the hole it makes.  Drilling a hole leaves you with just a knife edge on the metal around the hole.  So using the awl method, you actually have more metal for the threads of the screw to bite onto.

Light gauge metal studs are thin enough to drive a regular drywall screw into even without a starter hole.  But there are times when that one particular screw will want to wander off, as metal studs are made from recycled scrap and you sometimes get a hard spot in the metal.

THEN, use Stainless Steel Slotted Head (all threaded) Screws. They look so much more Professional than plain old sheet metal screws. AND they never rust!!

Fred