Looking to purchase some Ross Custom Switches for a new layout with either the DZ-1000 or DZ-2500. Which switch machines are more reliable? Does either one have any major issues? They both appear to be good products, I'm just not sure if I will use them with TMCC/LEGACY.
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If you aren't going to be using Legacy to control them, I would go with the 1000's and save the money. I love using Legacy/TMCC to run trains, but for me, it is too cumbersome, and less fun for running my switches. I enjoy hitting a button trackside, or from a control panel. I believe the 2500s have a more prototypical slow motion while moving the switch points, if that is important to you.
@Zeke13 posted:Which switch machines are more reliable?
Starting new... consider Tortoise Switch machines ...reliability is unparalleled.
Like Dennis said, Tortoise switch machines have been the reliability gold standard for decades. They also cost less than the DZ options.
The 2500's are designed to work with TMCC handheld, or (as mentioned Legacy control). Either handheld remote will flip the switches.
Can the Tortoise Switch Machines be setup for non-derailing? If so, how easy /difficult would it be?
Yes, they can... but, I've not done it because trains/rolling stock don't derail if entering the switch from the wrong direction. Front pilots and the lightest cars I have easily move the throw rods/rails out of the way, then snap back into position. Hopefully, someone who has set them up for non-derailing chimes in.
I have to go with Dennis, the Tortoise machines are going to last your lifetime and several other lifetimes. They'll also work first time, every time. I use the DZ-2500's, and I've used the DZ-1000's as well. If I were doing it again, I'd go with the Tortoise switch machines, I'm sorry I didn't do that this time!
Like Dennis says, passive non-derailing works very well with the Tortoise switch machines, you just have to pick the proper spring wire for the actuator. Another bonus of the Tortoise switch machines is they positively hold the points completely closed in either direction, there simply isn't an issue like with either the DZ-1000 or DZ-2500 that occasionally they don't complete their throw and allow trains to pick the points and derail.
The Tortoise comes with 0.025" wire... to go through 1/2" plywood, homasote and reach a switch's throw arm sitting on road bed the wire barely makes it and is uncomfortably short . I have no idea why folks use much heavier wire when non-derailing is the goal and 0.025" works perfectly. I used 0.026" (close enough) 'Piano' Wire for longer reach.
As long as you're using Ross switches in good condition, I certainly agree. The effort to move the points is virtually nil, so you should be able to use almost any size spring wire to do the job.
Keep in mind Ross just announced a price increase starting Jan 20 so get your order in soon.
I use DZ-1000 with the LCS CSM2 components, easy to wire up and gives flexibility to throw the switch manually, through the buttons on my facia or through the legacy remote. I have had no issues with the switch machines but as mentioned, when I throw the switch I visually confirm it to make sure it completed the throw.
Thaks to all for your input. Greatly appreciated. Now leaning towards the Tortoise.
Might be a minor point but when the DZ1000's throw, they make an audible click that gives an indication that it has thrown (but as mentioned, perhaps not all the way). When the DZ2500's throw, they make a much lower clicking sound as the points move. I pretty much rely on the sound and the lights of the 1000's (red/green) to tell me the turnout has throw.
Just to note, I am going with the Tortoise Switch Machines. I have everything on order. Thanks again for everyone's input.
@Zeke13 posted:Just to note, I am going with the Tortoise Switch Machines. I have everything on order. Thanks again for everyone's input.
I would grab the Acculite Snaps II (connectors) if you ordered the latest version of the tortoises for a quick and easy installation. They are incredibly helpful when adding/changing the wiring for signals and the like.
@Zeke13 posted:Just to note, I am going with the Tortoise Switch Machines. I have everything on order. Thanks again for everyone's input.
Good choice, I wish I had gone that way myself!
Denis, I did order edge connectors, but not the Acculite Snaps II's. The ones I are ordered are for the new Tortoise Switch Machines and ordered from the same train store. As far as the Acculite Snaps II's, I seem to have issue with getting the wires to stay in these type of screw terminals, so I went with ones I which will require some soldering.
Hmmm... I use single strand telephone wire ...0 issues with screw terminal connectivity. I think there are 4 wires in each.
Yes, it could be I'm using too large a gauge of wire. Usually 18 gauge stranded I have on hand.
@Zeke13 posted:Yes, it could be I'm using too large a gauge of wire. Usually 18 gauge stranded I have on hand.
The Tortoise switch machines only needs 30-40 milliamps maximum current, so any size wire would be good, #18 is hopeless overkill! One inexpensive option might be Ethernet CAT5 cable, it's what I used for all my switch machines.
Definitely will look into the Cat5 cable as it has the right number of wires. Should make things a little easier.