Run your trains from you Android Phone

Will it run on a tablet such as a Nexus 7 running Android 4.2.2?

Do you have a make/model of a BT<->Serial adapter that works with it?  I wouldn't be interested in something to play with the interface if it doesn't do anything.

John...we "played" with BK's app at private layouts at York.  I can assure you that it is in usable  form right NOW.  BK needs some additional input from some knowledgeable TrainHeads.  My understanding is that the BT<->serial interface can be bought on Amazon (for example) for <$20.  It plugs into the Cab Base...and the app controls the Base.  Brilliant and effective.

I asked that question and was told as long as the tablet has bluetooth capability. Otherwise no.

That is correct...and makes sense since the Android device using the app communicates via B/T.

My point was an exact make/model so I didn't have to guess what the requirements were.

I looked for a BT<->RS232 adapter, I find them in the $70 and up price range.  A bit more than I want to spend to tinker with this not knowing if it'll go farther.

This definitely sounds promising if we can get more info like John says. Now I'm kicking myself for selling off my Nexus tablet (wasn't using it enough after a while). If it can be polished up to the level of what they're doing with the iPad control, this would be pretty awesome.

John...you  can find the right adapter for under twenty bucks.  Suggestion if you're interested in this:  Contact BK direct by using the e-mail address in his profile.  E-mail me if you can't get through to him for some reason.

Gee, just a posting here of the link to this adapter is all I ask.   If someone has found it, that doesn't seem too much to ask.

Hi all, been out of contact but here's some answers for you.

1)  I only tried this on 3 different phones.  All you have to do is download the app and run it on your phone/tablet to see if it will work for you.  (Assuming you have bluetooth).  If it works for you, and you think you can use it, then order a bluetooth device.

2)  Also take a look at the pdf document in the files section, which has some information.

3)  From amazon, this device works:

http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-...NQUGR4/ref=de_a_smtd

4) One more time, you do NOT have to buy anything to run it on your phone and see what's there.  Just download it and go.  If it looks OK to you, spend the $20 and enjoy.

Is there any special initialization of that adapter for this application?  Also, how is that adapter powered, from the serial port?

The device would only need initialization if you were using multiple devices to reset the names.  You would have to give each device its own name.  There is a "standard" to do this, but I am not up on it yet.

Yes, you need a 3V power supply or batteries.

Hi all:

I will attest to Bob's android app and phone in being the first "guinea pig" to play with the TMCC application on his phone that past Tuesday night. Bob, Bob and Leigh who all flew in from California to attend York this past week were at my house last week to another destination on Wednesday. We were at my club in Lakewood as they wanted to see it and then we went off to one of my ckub member's house to see his HUGE layout and run some trains there.

Perfect layout to use the Android phone and it was well tested that night operating Santa Fe Erie Built from Atlas with EOB in them. The Android performed fine and we had no issues with range from the base and all worked fine.

Plenty of nice features but one that sticks out is it stores your engines in the TMCC application once you add them.

If anyone here wants to try, I'd advice them to do that. It's pretty cool using that small phone to run your trains, accessories, switches, etc.

I did put it on the phone and I ordered the BT adapter, so we'll see how it goes.

And Bob, the link to the Arduino model in your PDF file is bad.

Downloaded the software last night. Ordering an interface. Even at $70 for a BT-RS232, the price is better than what I've seen replacement Cab1 remotes going for on eBay. Will let you know how it works.

Also, I saw some other BT-rs232 adapters (more expensive) that supported multiple devices. If one of those could be used, it would theoretically support a club setting.

Well, you have to remember that it'll have to actually serve as a replacement for the CAB1.  

Sorry about the bad link in the pdf.  The one in the post above works.

or here:

http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-...NQUGR4/ref=de_a_smtd

No problem Bob, just figured you'd like to know.

Matt,

I got a device which claimed to have multiple channels, but it turned out that you had to hard code the devices in, using their software.  Needless to say, I was not happy with the results.  (Also it only worked with their devices).  But if you find one that really can handle multiple channels, that would be great!

Thanks for the heads up. Will let you know if I find anything that supports multiple phone sync's.

Still waiting on the BT<->serial module, the seller emailed me and told me they screwed up the shipping and were shipping it again.

Finally got my BT module, I guess it's time to try this out.  Their power requirements are confusing.

In the text of the ad they say:  Voltage : 3.3 (2.7V-4.2V)

Then they have this picture...

John,

If you got the Arduino unit, that drawing is wrong!  (Unless they changed the pinout).  If you look on the PCB, there are some small labels by the pins. 

On mine, Vdd is the pin at the inner edge, then GND is next to it, and

the two serial pins closer to the board edge.  I used two AA batteries

to power it.

This is the unit I used:

http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-...Female/dp/B009NQUGR4

Here's a pic of one that shows the pinout:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduin...Female-/160799222877

Hope that helps.

Oops, I see your issue.  The last link also has the picture with the "Correct connection" you showed.  I used the pinout shown in the photo of the board.  You should be able to double check the GND connection, it should go to pin 5 of the DB9.

I did indeed check closely, and on the opposite side of the board they had the voltages silkscreened.  I used a 3V wall-wart, it actually comes up right at 4V with no load, looked like a match.

I got it running, but questions are aplenty.

I think I see that you have to actually program switches and accessories in before you can select them, I was trying to activate switches, but no go.

How do you do things like volume and smoke?  I hit AUX1 and then 1 or 4 for volume, and 8 or 9 for smoke on/off, nothing happened.

I programmed a switch in, but I still don't see how to make it work.  There is no button that makes it work.

It would be keen if the buttons were mnemonic and changed to show the through and out symbols when you select a switch.  Of course, I would have been happy to get one to work at all.

Got the app, pretty cool. Can you use this with the legacy base to run tmcc trains?

I'm running a Legacy locomotive through the Legacy base with it, so the answer is yes.

I just haven't gotten the switches to work, or aux stuff like volume or smoke control.

Great to know! Which blue tooth module did you buy? How did you attach the  3v to the module?

Thanks, Liam

I bought this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-...NQUGR4/ref=de_a_smtd

I attached the 3.5V supply with a 4pin plug I had.  It was actually the speaker plug from a computer speaker, I have a bunch of those in the drawer, perfect fit.  I just spliced it to the supply leads and I have power.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduin...Female-/160799222877 in the picture on the eBay listing their are four pins vcc, gnd, rxd, and txd. are these the pins I apply power to? I'm assuming gnd is ground?

Yep, and if you look close at the back of the board, the voltages are silkscreened on the board.  The first two pins near the middle of the board are the power and ground, the others are the serial data.

Thanks! If I have this correct GND is negative and VCC is hot. Do the 3 volts have to be applied all the time? 

John,

Just double checked thinks, and I couldn't get the smoke on/off to work.  Other functions, like volume up/down, couplers, brake/boost work, so it should be an easy fix.

As for the switches, I am putting my test rig back up.  It worked previously, so we will see.  Note that it only works with switch controllers that use the TMCC signal through the air to operated, (i.e. the switches connected through the serial line will not work).

I will get a smoke on/off fix out ASAP.

Yes, changing the key names is in the works, once time permits.

Yep, I broke the path that controls the switches too.  I will see if I can get a fix in this weekend.  Thanks for your input.