$oo, I hope you can communicate with Mike a lot better than you did in this most recent post. I still don't know what you did because of the way you wrote it. Very clumsy and hard to read.
It makes sense to me. I dont have all the answers, but I wonder if the results are due to an intermittant poor contact with the power on the track. Mine lost sound easily when going over a certain switch until I put a battery in the tender.
Hope your S3 continues to work well. I wonder about the copper contact strip on the tender axle also. Mine looks like it has been hot at some time. I gave it a bit more tension.
Hope your S3 continues to work well. I wonder about the copper contact strip on the tender axle also. Mine looks like it has been hot at some time. I gave it a bit more tension.
quote:Originally posted by OGR Webmaster:
$oo, I hope you can communicate with Mike a lot better than you did in this most recent post. I still don't know what you did because of the way you wrote it. Very clumsy and hard to read.
webmaster,
I re edited is it better and more clear now? $oo
cbojanower,
Thank You sent mail to mike reagan most likely hear from him next week.
$oo
Thank You sent mail to mike reagan most likely hear from him next week.
$oo
My experience with Mike says you may even hear from him tonight! I sent him an email about three months ago on a Saturday when he was actually in Denver attending a LCCA function, but he must have read some email in the hotel and responded that afternoon.
Kudos to Mike for his service attitude!
Larry D.
Kudos to Mike for his service attitude!
Larry D.
$oo Line
Try giving your track a good cleaning. I think we see a lot of post here on complaining about DCS or Legacy issues with all that might be needed is clean rails. My S3 is one smooth running machine and crawls on the second click of my Legacy remote wothout issues, even going through switches.
Milwrd
Try giving your track a good cleaning. I think we see a lot of post here on complaining about DCS or Legacy issues with all that might be needed is clean rails. My S3 is one smooth running machine and crawls on the second click of my Legacy remote wothout issues, even going through switches.
Milwrd
milwrd, will give track a good cleaning still need to let it run another 2 hrs at various speeds to get it limbered up seems a tad stiff at startup.
I did oil it as instructed before putting on track.
I read manual at end where diagnostics for light blinks are it said if it was fast blinking to use the reset for legacy to clear the problem.
it further states locomotive will check it self again and so it does in fact correct the problem!
but if the problem persists it will start blinking fast again I assume they mean after you hit reset and it can't fix itself?
what do you think.
unrelated observation seems as this engine is slow in speed compared to my legacy gs-4 at medium speed it seems to be slow as the gs-4 is really moving at that speed.
is it a smaller can motor? or different gearing?
not complaining as you really can see all the side rod movement I'll be glad to finally see some freight revenue behind it.
the smoke unit is working well but shut it down while letting it run as was multitasking and didn't want to burn resistors up due to no smoke fluid.
I figure to add smoke fluid for awhile yet and then try the steam chest feature.
anyone have an idea why they offset the smoke fluid chamber hole to left side and made it smaller than usual?
wonder if that's restricted due to steam chest feature hmmm.
after work today will try again see if it will move on its own at 2 miles per hour.
have a great day all---$oo
I did oil it as instructed before putting on track.
I read manual at end where diagnostics for light blinks are it said if it was fast blinking to use the reset for legacy to clear the problem.
it further states locomotive will check it self again and so it does in fact correct the problem!
but if the problem persists it will start blinking fast again I assume they mean after you hit reset and it can't fix itself?
what do you think.
unrelated observation seems as this engine is slow in speed compared to my legacy gs-4 at medium speed it seems to be slow as the gs-4 is really moving at that speed.
is it a smaller can motor? or different gearing?
not complaining as you really can see all the side rod movement I'll be glad to finally see some freight revenue behind it.
the smoke unit is working well but shut it down while letting it run as was multitasking and didn't want to burn resistors up due to no smoke fluid.
I figure to add smoke fluid for awhile yet and then try the steam chest feature.
anyone have an idea why they offset the smoke fluid chamber hole to left side and made it smaller than usual?
wonder if that's restricted due to steam chest feature hmmm.
after work today will try again see if it will move on its own at 2 miles per hour.
have a great day all---$oo
this engine has a cannon motor instead of the premium pittman motor. keeps costs down.
so it has a cannon motor is that including the balls and powder! sorry couldn't resist the pun.
I cleaned track all was well until I slowed to 2 miles per hour once tender came to a ross dbl crossover the sound went quiet an guessing for whatever reason this one needs a 9 volt battery to keep sounds going even in command mode.
wonder why this particular engine but none of my other legacy engines behave this way?
have I just been lucky with the others? have the rest of you that have this engine come across this slow speed power interruption and then all goes quiet.
$oo
I cleaned track all was well until I slowed to 2 miles per hour once tender came to a ross dbl crossover the sound went quiet an guessing for whatever reason this one needs a 9 volt battery to keep sounds going even in command mode.
wonder why this particular engine but none of my other legacy engines behave this way?
have I just been lucky with the others? have the rest of you that have this engine come across this slow speed power interruption and then all goes quiet.
$oo
quote:Originally posted by $oo Line:
so it has a cannon motor is that including the balls and powder! sorry couldn't resist the pun.
I cleaned track all was well until I slowed to 2 miles per hour once tender came to a ross dbl crossover the sound went quiet an guessing for whatever reason this one needs a 9 volt battery to keep sounds going even in command mode.
wonder why this particular engine but none of my other legacy engines behave this way?
have I just been lucky with the others? have the rest of you that have this engine come across this slow speed power interruption and then all goes quiet.
$oo
Mine lost sound over a certain Ross switch...but. Not over other ones. Battery fixed it.
No sound loss on Fastrack.
Me either on my Fastrack...just on the one Ross switch.
cjack,
yep that did the trick no more loss of sounds battery is indeed the fix thanks.
but still wonder whats different electronic wise where power interruption bothers this one more than the rest of my legacy fleet?
anyone have a clue or theory?
$oo
yep that did the trick no more loss of sounds battery is indeed the fix thanks.
but still wonder whats different electronic wise where power interruption bothers this one more than the rest of my legacy fleet?
anyone have a clue or theory?
$oo
I suppose it's possible that there is less capacitive energy storage on the pc boards in the S3 than other engines.
Soo, since the battery solved the problem enjoy the train and don't worry about it. 
quote:Originally posted by $oo Line:
unrelated observation seems as this engine is slow in speed compared to my legacy gs-4 at medium speed it seems to be slow as the gs-4 is really moving at that speed.
is it a smaller can motor? or different gearing?
Its quite possibly the gearing,motor or both I noticed doing some searching on Lionels website that the gear ratio was changed as well as the motor from the initial legacy PM berk 11146 to the seperate sale legacy PM berk 11203 with choice of PE or PM tender. Maybe Lionel has gotten so tired of the famous "oddyssey lurch" phrase they have decided to push the slow speed envelope.
I haven't forgotten about the surprise have been busy! I think you'll feel the wait was worth it.
side note engine is now working well having let it run for a couple of hrs at various speeds and filling smoke unit up often and overnight as well.
hang in there all thanks for your patience, $oo
side note engine is now working well having let it run for a couple of hrs at various speeds and filling smoke unit up often and overnight as well.
hang in there all thanks for your patience, $oo
I learned something this evening run engine for 15 minutes after that steam chest smokes up a storm.
if you try the steam chest effect at startup its a hit and miss so am assuming it takes awhile for the element to get warm enough to provide smoke effect for both the smoke stack and the steam chest.
$oo
if you try the steam chest effect at startup its a hit and miss so am assuming it takes awhile for the element to get warm enough to provide smoke effect for both the smoke stack and the steam chest.
$oo
heres the surprise Enjoy all!
I beleive I have the only one with this steam chest feature,
$oo
I beleive I have the only one with this steam chest feature,
$oo
Hi $oo,
I just watched your video. Regarding the steam chest effect.....it appears that 90 degree fittings were applied to the outlets of the cylinders causing the steam to blow out in a horizontal fashion. Is that true?
Steve
I just watched your video. Regarding the steam chest effect.....it appears that 90 degree fittings were applied to the outlets of the cylinders causing the steam to blow out in a horizontal fashion. Is that true?
Steve
Steam Guy,
you have it correct I made the elbows from 1\8" evergreen tubing am sure plastruct will work as well. I think the aluminum tubing I used inside of the 1\8" tubing was 1\16".
had to remove music with an approved sound track!
$oo
you have it correct I made the elbows from 1\8" evergreen tubing am sure plastruct will work as well. I think the aluminum tubing I used inside of the 1\8" tubing was 1\16".
had to remove music with an approved sound track!
$oo
$oo,
So you bent the tubing to achieve that 90 degree bend? And you have aluminum tubing inside of the plastic tubing? And is the tubing press fit into the cylinder openings or did you have to use an adhesive to hold them in place?
Steve
So you bent the tubing to achieve that 90 degree bend? And you have aluminum tubing inside of the plastic tubing? And is the tubing press fit into the cylinder openings or did you have to use an adhesive to hold them in place?
Steve
Steam Guy,
I tried bending using brass tubing way to big so forget that ok.
now using a tape measure the part that fits inside hole in bottom of cylinder is 1\4" long cut at a 45 degree angle so it measures from tip of 45 degree to the straight end of tubing you'll need 4 of them.
now second part needs to be 7\32" from tip of 45 degree angle to straight end of tubing again you need 4 of them.
now take a small modelers round and flat files and remove all flashing from inside and from the outside angle cuts.
now glue the 1\4" and the 7\32" together using a brush on super glue this parts tricky as parts are small and fingers not so much!
now if you'll turn locomotive upside down either on some towels or an engine cradle is best you'll see the cylinder hole casting is only open at the front the back has a flat area so smoke will only come out at the front ok.
now take a round file and file a notch at an angle more or less 90 degrees on the 1\4" part of tubing you want to file enough so that smoke can come thru the tubing yet be sealed when inserted so smoke comes out the tubing only.
basically you shouldn't see the filed notch when you insert that into cylinder smoke hole.
now take a piece of aluminum tubing 1\16" I think cut it a 1\16" long and insert it using the tip of round file and using finger nail to keep the inserted part from coming out and remove the file.
now you ask how does the elbow assembly stay there my thought as well until a bulb lit up Bingo hot glue a small dab behind the elbow where it and rear part of steam chest meets will hold it well enough as long as you remember it's not a solid part.
once all parts are attached to engine paint using a flat water based paint I know you say why flat?
because I tried other blacks and when you take a photo or video it's areal nice shinny earing starring back at ya hence flat black is just that flat and blah no shine!
this way of attaching allows an easy way to remove if something goes wrong and yet doesn't hurt the casting good luck.
let me know if you need more help a fun project and wonder if the Lionel folks will incorporate it in there next steam engines release?
$oo
I tried bending using brass tubing way to big so forget that ok.
now using a tape measure the part that fits inside hole in bottom of cylinder is 1\4" long cut at a 45 degree angle so it measures from tip of 45 degree to the straight end of tubing you'll need 4 of them.
now second part needs to be 7\32" from tip of 45 degree angle to straight end of tubing again you need 4 of them.
now take a small modelers round and flat files and remove all flashing from inside and from the outside angle cuts.
now glue the 1\4" and the 7\32" together using a brush on super glue this parts tricky as parts are small and fingers not so much!
now if you'll turn locomotive upside down either on some towels or an engine cradle is best you'll see the cylinder hole casting is only open at the front the back has a flat area so smoke will only come out at the front ok.
now take a round file and file a notch at an angle more or less 90 degrees on the 1\4" part of tubing you want to file enough so that smoke can come thru the tubing yet be sealed when inserted so smoke comes out the tubing only.
basically you shouldn't see the filed notch when you insert that into cylinder smoke hole.
now take a piece of aluminum tubing 1\16" I think cut it a 1\16" long and insert it using the tip of round file and using finger nail to keep the inserted part from coming out and remove the file.
now you ask how does the elbow assembly stay there my thought as well until a bulb lit up Bingo hot glue a small dab behind the elbow where it and rear part of steam chest meets will hold it well enough as long as you remember it's not a solid part.
once all parts are attached to engine paint using a flat water based paint I know you say why flat?
because I tried other blacks and when you take a photo or video it's areal nice shinny earing starring back at ya hence flat black is just that flat and blah no shine!
this way of attaching allows an easy way to remove if something goes wrong and yet doesn't hurt the casting good luck.
let me know if you need more help a fun project and wonder if the Lionel folks will incorporate it in there next steam engines release?
$oo
$00,
Thanks for this information!
The steam cylinder effect looks a lot better with this modification.
Steve
Thanks for this information!
The steam cylinder effect looks a lot better with this modification.
Steve
