I started to make a list of those that posted on myriad threads, attempting to improve mine and others experiences, with the Polar Express. Everyone following these threads, you know who you are. Thank you. My solution so far has been weight. .
Parameters of interest:
1) I am pulling 7 cars, with the Conventional shell, on the RC chassis
2) My loco was only slipping, coming out of a reverse curve, even thought 30 inches of track separated the O54 curves.
3) I am running at slow speed (for this set). For RC users, I want to run with the Throttle 1/2 ot 3/4 between stop and the F in Forward. For all others, that probably works out 20 - 25smph. I'd love to run slower, but that' about as slow as I can get, thats about 20 -25% of the throttle range, so there isn't much play anyway. It will go slower, just not through the reverse area (yet!, I'm going to keep working).
4) Aside from the weight, I did Red and Tacky #2 the motor. Irrespective of any literature, or advice from Lionel, what I found was that out of the box (new from Amazon), the gearbox was full of a whitish lube that was melting and leaking out of the gearbox. I cleaned it as best I could, and put in some Red and tacky. Also, I found a great way to control the RT2 grease. I picked up a syringe that is designed for rinsing sockets, after wisdom teeth are pulled. I filled the barrel, with the plunger removed and I pull back a bit, when not in use. I keep it in a ziplock, but for 2 years, it hasn't leaked.
For the weights found a great product at my LHS call Pinewood Derby Flexible Tape Weight. A 3oz sheet cost $5. I have 2 sheets in the Loco, with room for a little more, bit I only bought 2. The weight was very easy to cut. I used straight tin snips. People suggested sticky weights, The tape was available around the corner, so...
There are almost 3 oz on the backside of the circuit board support, Probably 2oz, in the top of the shell and everything else is tucked around. I covered some with Kapton tape and put it on the chassis floor, next to the business side of the PCB (no photo, but if you look at yours you will see where it can fit.) I liked putting the weight in the PCB area, just be careful, I'd hate to blow my board, or hear you blew yours. The placement best mimics a block of metal that sits in the conventional model, just behind the drive wheels (the conventional board is elsewhere). If I go for another oz, it will be attached to the shell and fill in more of the area between the motor and stack. I want to see if the 3M glue that was on the weights holds for a year in the closet.
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