TMCC Chuff Rate Problem

Most of the time this is due to the microswitch loosening. The switch is buried under the boards and sits near one of the driver axles. That axle has a double lobe cam that opens and closes the switch. To adjust it the shell has to come off and then maybe a board or smoke unit. Not difficult but can be time consuming. 

Pete

I don't really like messing with lionel trains with railsounds and tmcc, being afraid I'm going to break something. I'll leave that up to my local train dealer. Thanks!

Remember, just because a dealer sells trains does not mean he knows how to fix them.  The world has many of those dealers.  Pick the guy who knows what he is doing and you will be ok.  I see you live in PA.  Many good train mechs in that state.

Where exactly are you in PA?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Where exactly are you in PA?

I'm in Dingmans Ferry, off of Interstate 80. I like to go to Gryzboski's Trains and Scranton Hobby. We just got a major snow storm and it will take over a week to finally be able to get down their, is there anyway I could repair the train myself? The manual doesn't say anything about taking it apart. 

slicknick924 posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Where exactly are you in PA?

I'm in Dingmans Ferry, off of Interstate 80. I like to go to Gryzboski's Trains and Scranton Hobby. We just got a major snow storm and it will take over a week to finally be able to get down their, is there anyway I could repair the train myself? The manual doesn't say anything about taking it apart. 

Sounds like it would better if you watched someone do this. A lot has to come off before you can get to the switch. After removing the shell (usually 4 screws) you have have remove one or more circuit boards and maybe the smoke unit depending on which axle the switch is on. Removing these may require removing some of the connectors. 

Then to determine if the switch is in the proper position you should check it with and ohmmeter while turning the motor. Otherwise you would not know if its in the correct position until after its reassembled. Wrong and you start over.

If you take it slow and deliberate and write down where things have to go you could do it but never having done it there are a few places where you could go wrong.

Pete

There are three screws that remove the boiler on this model, one under the front pilot truck and two at the rear of the locomotive.

I honestly can't say what you can do to repair it, as I don't know your capabilities.  If you're comfortable taking stuff like this apart and getting it back together, you should be able to get to the chuff switch.  The chuff switch will be on one of the driver axles, you should be able to peek under with the boiler shell off and find it.

Usually, they're either loose or the activation lever needs a little bend to get them working right.  Occasionally, you'll have to replace one, but I don't replace many of them.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

There are three screws that remove the boiler on this model, one under the front pilot truck and two at the rear of the locomotive.

I honestly can't say what you can do to repair it, as I don't know your capabilities.  If you're comfortable taking stuff like this apart and getting it back together, you should be able to get to the chuff switch.  The chuff switch will be on one of the driver axles, you should be able to peek under with the boiler shell off and find it.

Usually, they're either loose or the activation lever needs a little bend to get them working right.  Occasionally, you'll have to replace one, but I don't replace many of them.

I took the engine's boiler off, and I couldn't get any access to the wheel axles. I have absolutely no idea how to get the two boards and the motor off but I can get the smoke unit off. I put the engine back together and it still worked thank gosh. I'm going to bring it to Mr. Gryzboski when I can to get it fixed. Thanks for the information!

You have to unplug the R2LC, then you can see the two screws that hold down the motherboard.

John,

It is really a treat to have people like you on this forum. I have done a number of TMCC conversions and each one seems a little easier but sometimes going into a factory made command engine is a little intimidating. For those times you are a great comfort to have around.

Ray

Before all, I would try a factory reset of this TMCC system.   I factory reset may solve the problem.  Maybe not.

Mike CT posted:

Before all, I would try a factory reset of this TMCC system.   I factory reset may solve the problem.  Maybe not.

I have tried factory reset which just screwed up my engine more. When I reprogrammed it after attempting the factory reset, when I go to back the engine up, the headlight doesn't shut off anymore. Still stuck in the house after the snow storm that left 3ft of snow up here in Northeast PA. 

Rayin"S" posted:

John,

It is really a treat to have people like you on this forum. I have done a number of TMCC conversions and each one seems a little easier but sometimes going into a factory made command engine is a little intimidating. For those times you are a great comfort to have around.

It's easy for me, if you let the magic smoke out, I can't even smell it down here.

slicknick924 posted:

Mike CT posted:

Before all, I would try a factory reset of this TMCC system.   I factory reset may solve the problem.  Maybe not.

I have tried factory reset which just screwed up my engine more. When I reprogrammed it after attempting the factory reset, when I go to back the engine up, the headlight doesn't shut off anymore. Still stuck in the house after the snow storm that left 3ft of snow up here in Northeast PA. 

We got more like 3" of snow in SE-PA, but it was really heavy stuff!  3 feet of that stuff must have been a bear to clear out!

The headlight shouldn't shut off on a steamer unless you use AUX2 to toggle it, they stay on all the time.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Rayin"S" posted:

John,

It is really a treat to have people like you on this forum. I have done a number of TMCC conversions and each one seems a little easier but sometimes going into a factory made command engine is a little intimidating. For those times you are a great comfort to have around.

It's easy for me, if you let the magic smoke out, I can't even smell it down here.

slicknick924 posted:

Mike CT posted:

Before all, I would try a factory reset of this TMCC system.   I factory reset may solve the problem.  Maybe not.

I have tried factory reset which just screwed up my engine more. When I reprogrammed it after attempting the factory reset, when I go to back the engine up, the headlight doesn't shut off anymore. Still stuck in the house after the snow storm that left 3ft of snow up here in Northeast PA. 

We got more like 3" of snow in SE-PA, but it was really heavy stuff!  3 feet of that stuff must have been a bear to clear out!

The headlight shouldn't shut off on a steamer unless you use AUX2 to toggle it, they stay on all the time.

On older lionel tmcc steamers, I don't know about newer ones, they have directional lighting. When the engine is backing up, the front lights shut off and the back lights (if there are any) should turn on.

This engine can be programed to have the headlight on constantly or toggle with the tender light. If you used the steam feature code AUX1 4 the headlight will remain on. If you use the diesel with smoke feature code, AUX1 8 it will toggle.

Pete

slicknick924 posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

There are three screws that remove the boiler on this model, one under the front pilot truck and two at the rear of the locomotive.

I honestly can't say what you can do to repair it, as I don't know your capabilities.  If you're comfortable taking stuff like this apart and getting it back together, you should be able to get to the chuff switch.  The chuff switch will be on one of the driver axles, you should be able to peek under with the boiler shell off and find it.

Usually, they're either loose or the activation lever needs a little bend to get them working right.  Occasionally, you'll have to replace one, but I don't replace many of them.

. I'm going to bring it to Mr. Gryzboski when I can to get it fixed. Thanks for the information!

Why not go down and visit GRJ's shop? Make a road trip...

Norton posted:

This engine can be programed to have the headlight on constantly or toggle with the tender light. If you used the steam feature code AUX1 4 the headlight will remain on. If you use the diesel with smoke feature code, AUX1 8 it will toggle.

Pete

I did what the manual told me, which had 74 in it. Then, I reprogrammed it to engine, 3, set.

As stated, that is the code for Odyssey cruise and steam lighting behavior.  Every manual I've seen for TMCC steamers programs them for the front light always on.