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I'm considering purchasing an older T MCC Steam locomotive. The seller claims it was tested by a authorized  service rep and that everything works but that the engine # will not reset and it is stuck on 3.
I know that is a contradiction.
Has anyone ever heard of this.
Any ideas. Is there possible a hard reset that they are not doing or tried?

Or should I stay away from this one?
And if I did purchase, what component would most likely need to be replaced?
Thanks
FMH
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He said that the only thing he can not do is a factory reset so the ID number is still three. If I am understanding properly than re-programming the engine ID is a separate and different procedure. If true than he may not realize that. Might just let him think it is broken and try to get a discount. And if it is, then I fix it if I can not live with that engine ID#. Thanks Fred
He said sometimes smoke comes from under the shell. He is not talking about electrical shorting I am sure. All mine seem to do that at one time or another. Especially if I blow down the stack If I let my MTH Camelback sit in one spot, the whole locomotive will disappear in a cloud with the smoke still pouring from the stack. So I doubt that is really a problem.

Reprogramming an Engine Number with a Cab#1 controller.  

(1.) Move Run/Prog  switch to Prog.

(2.) Engine on track, power track.  

(3.) Eng , ##, Set,  where ## is the engine number. Set is under the small window/door at the bottom of the Cab 1 handheld.A whistle/ horn should blow or (headlight flash).

(4.) Wait 10 seconds, power off. 

(5.) Move Run/Prog  back to Run. 

(6.) Engine on the track, power on, Engine should respond to the new number.    

Originally Posted by Ffffreddd:
Thanks Mike, I bought the loco. I will let you know how it turns out. It is interesting how many online instructions say to press the set button before new Engine I'd. And how many fail to mention that you need to remove all the other locos.

 

The link I posted above is from the lionel wed site, I think set comes after engine number. Why do you have to remove all engines before programming.

 

Bill

It seems that you so not have to if what you say is correct. Read it on page 36 of CTS Command Control for Toy Trains. 2nd Edition. Neil Besougloff Revised by Carl Swanson. My biggest issue with this hobby is how much money is made off of selling Disinformation to unsuspecting hobbyists. One of the reasons that I find this forum useful. I have come to learn who is consistently correct, usually correct, and those that redirect me to the contradictory stuff that I have already read. I just do not trust most of the Lionel literature to be accurate( I was considering keeping a running list of verified inaccuracies, vagaries, and contradictions, but it would take up too much of my time) and rarely find a tech support individual who usually shows his/her ignorance after a couple of questions. ( they never will admit it either) LOL Fred

It's not a bad idea to have the one you're programming alone on the tracks, but in the case of TMCC/Legacy, it really makes no difference.  Since you are addressing one locomotive, the others are just ignoring the traffic anyway.  I've never seen it be an issue, and I've setup many on the club layout with 5 or 6 TMCC locomotives on the layout and powered up.

 

I don't have that book, so I can't look to see what it says.

Originally Posted by Ffffreddd:
It seems that you so not have to if what you say is correct. Read it on page 36 of CTS Command Control for Toy Trains. 2nd Edition. Neil Besougloff Revised by Carl Swanson. My biggest issue with this hobby is how much money is made off of selling Disinformation to unsuspecting hobbyists. One of the reasons that I find this forum useful. I have come to learn who is consistently correct, usually correct, and those that redirect me to the contradictory stuff that I have already read. I just do not trust most of the Lionel literature to be accurate( I was considering keeping a running list of verified inaccuracies, vagaries, and contradictions, but it would take up too much of my time) and rarely find a tech support individual who usually shows his/her ignorance after a couple of questions. ( they never will admit it either) LOL Fred

  Fred,

 

    I apologized if I directed you to info that you have read before and that it was a waste of mine and your time. I will post a trouble shooting guide for which most people can understand.

 

(1) If engine is stuck in conventional try resetting 3-4 times. You probably have already check the command base and found it connected.

 

(2) If you cannot change engine number, see one above.

 

(3) Next step is to remove the shell, the shell could have 4-8 screws holding it to the frame.

     With the shell removed you are on your own. Work slowly and check all wire, connectors and boards. By now you probably know what the problem is and have fixed it and it's time to retest. If you are still having problems then the next step would be to try a re-programming.


 (4) Re-programming is a step to restore smoke, sounds, lights and motion. But you already knew that. I have never figured out why this is not the first step in problem solving tmcc.


I am having a good day. Hope you have a better one.


Bill 

Hi Bill, No need to apologize, but I should apologize to you for not being clear. I have found both your and John's advice and information to be clear and informative several times. And sending that link was great because I trust that you know what you are talking about. On occasion, some people will post links without even understanding what they are forwarding. Not being able to open your link on my phone, my own search came up with that book advertised on Amazon. There are several and they usually allow you to preview. If I had, I would have seen the inconsistencies and would of been able to phrase my response better. No hard feelings, I hope. And I did reprogram several of my existing per your directions and they all worked fine. Hope I can say the same about the new one when it arrives. Thanks
Thanks guys for all the great ideas. Used Mikado Jr 6-11100 arrived today. Was listed 3 times, no one bit and price was right. Paid the minimum of $200. I think people shied away because of the engine reset issue. Switches are under little cast nubs so it requires a little stick or probe for those of us with fat fingers. After trying to reset engine number, it blew whistle on set command but did not save the number. Like someone suggested, I moved the Prgm button several times just in case the contacts were dirty. Tried again and it took the new number. Everything seems to work fine so I am not sure if I need to do reset. But if I did, is it Alt1, 4,74? I do not have a manual for this yet and need to download from a computer. I do think that Boxcar Bill misunderstood my frustration with links. Whenever I click on a Lionel link, my iPhone redirects to a very limited Lionel mobile website main page. I am sure that this happens to a lot of people, not just me. Nice little engine for my smallish layout. Fred

I
f your locomotive is unresponsive to your commands in the TrainMaster Command Control
environment, we recommend that you follow this procedure to reset your locomotive. All
factory default settings will be restored when you reprogram the locomotive.
1. Slide the Command reverse unit switch to the PGM position.
2. Plug in and connect your Command Base.
3. Place your locomotive on the track, then power up the track.
4. Press ENG and enter the locomotive’s ID#.
5. Press SET.
6. Press ENG and enter the locomotive’s ID# again.
7. Press AUX1.
8. Enter 74 for this particular locomotive.
9. Turn off track power and wait ten seconds.
10. Slide the Command reverse unit switch back to the RUN position.
At this point, your locomotive has been reset. Restore power to the track and operate the
locomotive as usual. Be sure to use the ID# entered in Step 4.

 

 

Fred

 

   The above is the sequence from your manual.

 

Bill

Hi Dave, I am aware of that. The idea of the link is to get you directly to the information. Unfortunately the default is the mobile site. I does not matter if you are in the OGR App or searching in Safari with Google. I can do a search for a specific item or manual. Get a search link and it will still go to the mobile site. Viewing full site breaks the link and gives you the main page. It effectively turns the link into a " go look for it on the Lionel site, it is there somewhere." What is ironic is that I get better leads when the search engine sends me to an OFR thread. Until after a few posts and someone links back to Lionel. Like a reversing loop to a dead end. LOL Fred
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