I have issues with some engines losing the signal when the enter a bridge. If it's going fast enough it can get through but usually it stops and has to be pulled from the bridge to be able to address again. I remember a long time ago some discussions on earth grounds and wondered if this was part of the problem. It seems to be worse on upper level bridges than lower level bridges.
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I'm guessing the bridge is metal. You'll need to find a source of earth ground and run a wire to the bridge. That should correct the problem. This is a common problem.
Is the ground from a 110 outlet sufficient for an earth ground?
That will work fine. Just be very sure of your connection.
The track must also be insulated from the grounded bridge. Apiece of carpet or rubber mat will work.
Since I'm using GarGraves track will that be a suficcient ground? On one of the bridges I have power leads going to the track on the bridge will that cause any issues? (I have it configured as a lift out bridge so I had to add power to the bridge).
I saw this post last night and was waiting for those with more experience to reply. Since they have I will add my 2 cents. Diagnosis the problem by stopping the offending loco in the troublesome place. Place your hand about 3 or 4 inches above it, if the loco now responds you have a ground plane issue which is easily fixed. If it does not, consider the antennae length in the loco itself. As far as gargraves is concerned, I am all GG and have no issues at all with that track.
Your track is NOT the ground we're talking about! You need the earth ground to be around in the wiring, but most certainly not connected to the track. It's not a problem to power the bridge tracks, the issue comes with the earth ground that radiates the TMCC signal for the antenna in the locomotive.
Ran a temporary wire and it worked great. Since this is an elevated track, is there any advantage to running a wire under the track through all of the elevations? Just as a note, when you put your hand over the engine it works too! Grandkids think it is magic!
Thanks,
It's always nice to impress the grand kids with your "magic". 
One more question, is stranded wire or solid wire better for the earth ground?
It makes absolutely no difference. The size of the wire is also insignificant, just the fact that it's there is all that matters.
Ran a temporary wire and it worked great. Since this is an elevated track, is there any advantage to running a wire under the track through all of the elevations? Just as a note, when you put your hand over the engine it works too! Grandkids think it is magic!
Thanks,
While it probably makes no difference running the wire above or below the track the optimum way to do it is to run it above the engine antenna. A diecast shell or the track can block the ground air signal. A Lionel Sr. Electronics Engineer recommended to me that the best way to do it is to run the ground wire above the track. We do it on telephone poles at the club and it works very well. And he also confirmed what GRJ said, wire size or type doesn't matter. We use 26 ga bare copper.
I agree with the wire location Chris, I was commenting on the solid/stranded and wire gauge question. I believe running it above the problem track is the best, and it seems your information is the same.
BTW, sorry I missed the gathering at NJ-HR, I really enjoyed it last year. 
Amazing, two TMCC gurus <G> agree! We missed you too. Hopefully next year.
I just ordered Dale's TMCC signal strength setup he just announced. Hoping it will give use some more insight into TMCC at the club.
PJ, Good luck with the layout.
Signal strength setup? I just see his tutorial how to measure signal from the base, what setup is this?
Signal strength "meter" from Dale is on another thread:
I saw that, but I'm not sure what "kit" is involved, it's just a diode and a resistor.
I suspect the connectors are more expensive by an order of magnitude than the resistor and diode, and it includes a VOM, presumably in some sort of overall enclosure, plus Dale's labor. It's most appropriate for lazy, ignorant people like me .
You miss my point, I don't see that Dale is offering any kit, he's just telling you how to do the measurements!
As Dale wrote in that other thread:
"As a result, I am going back into the "TMCC/Legacy" accessories business by offering a complete metering unit that includes a volt/ohm meter, the rectifying circuit and the proper connectors (feed-thru 9-pin and forked lug) for attaching to a TMCC or Legacy Base. The price is $60 plus shipping. Contact me at dmanquen@msn.com for more details or to place an order. Please do not try to order through this Forum."
WOW, I totally overlooked the last paragraph in the effort to see the diagram in the next post! 
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership
