Weaver RS3???

That's weird.

All my Flywheel fit as a glove on my pitmann motor shaft.

Keep us posted!

Andre.

It could be my old, worn out drill bit

So, do you want to make you engine run slow at low voltage?

are you going conventional or dcc.

When I run it I'll be running it slow, not sure yet on anything else.

This is my introduction into 2-rail O-scale   It may be nothing more than another pretty face sitting on a shelf but I got it at a good price.

The brass fan grill does also fit on the MTH Railking RS3, so I'll be making mods to both engines now.  I may even take the plastic Weaver handrails and put them on the RK engine.

2 rails is awesome. I did more in the same space used with 3 rails making my own switches.

AG.

It was the drill bit, I bought a new one and the flywheel is on!

The 91% isopropyl alcohol isn't cutting the paint as good as I had hoped.  It's been soaking for almost 2 days and the orange is just now starting to come off, with the assistance from a Magic Eraser soaked in alcohol, a toothbrush did nothing.

There's some nice detail on the body I can see now that some of of the orange is coming off, it must have been put on thick for coverage.

I repaint almost all my fleet. 

My repaint a Williams 773, the new paint was a lot thinner than the original making all the small detail more visible.

Glad your flywheel fit perfect now.

I make few brass ring for the universal joint too, just in case the crack.

AG.

LOL!

The only picture I could share is one of the shell sitting in a vat of 91% alcohol  now brake fluid.  I don't know what Weaver did to the paint on this model but it's a bear.

Brake fluid will work well and it is easy to clean after the treatment.

Andre.

I've probably got 96% of the paint removed, but it's really lodged in the gaps between the doors along the side of the shell.  I've used an old dental tool to dislodge some of it and I think I'll let it soak again to see if the remainder comes off.  It seems once you get an opening in the paint surface the brake fluid seems to work better.

Some of the paint still on is around the molded on grabs, they're coming off anyway and the paint will come off with them once I start the process.  The cab still has a lot of paint on it, I don't want to press too hard in fear of breaking the window trim.

Does anyone make brass inserts for the large louvers (motor location) on the sides?  Open louvers there would really make this engine look cool.  Maybe Bill Lane of 3D Modeltech could print some out, might have to give him a call!

Here's a couple of pix:

I also found some photos of a model RS3 cab interior:

Has anyone removed the false walls inside the cab and glued the cab in place so an interior can be made?

Bob,

Good progress there. I'm not aware of any louvers, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. One of my RS3 units for the DL&W has screen vents in place of the louvers, which I believe were put on by the railroad shops. A bit easier to model.

Bob, ask Pat at P&D shop.

they have vents for RS engines but I am not sure if they are the one you are looking for.

PDP 2047 PDP 2048

Andre.

I got a pack of the P&D 2087 handgrabs but there's more of the large, curved handgrabs (6) in the pack then there are the short straight handgrabs (4) (reverse of what it says on their website) so I need to get more.

Thing is, these brass or bronze grabs are straight, the small grabs on the nose of the RS3 are curved.  Can these small, straight grabs be bent or will they snap?

Andre, I'll call about those vents.  P&D also made a RSD4/5 conversion kit for these engines.  What's the difference between a RSD4 and a RSC3?  Seaboard had some RSC3s which I wouldn't mind doing.

Also found this:

http://www.trainlife.com/magaz...7/march-1988-page-59

They also ran an article in the June 1987 issues but it's not online.

I'm very late to the party on seeing/reading this thread.  Nice job so far, Bob!  I look forward to following this thread as you continue your project.  Please continue to post pictures!

FWIW, I have "super-detailed" three ALCo RS units so far, albeit in 3-rail, using add-on parts from P&D, Atlas & Weaver.  Two were RSD4's from MTH and one was an RS3 from AtlasO's Trainman line. 

Atlas had a surprising # of detail parts available.  In fact all of the grab irons on my 3 engines (roof-top, pilot and hood-ends, long and short) came from Atlas.  And you're right about the brass fan grills from P&D fitting MTH's engines as I used them on both MTH units.

Click here for a link to an older thread about my MTH ALCo RSD4 detailing/weathering project.

Click here for a link to an older that that contained some details and photos of my AtlasO Trainman ALCo RS3 detailing/weathering project.

Good luck with this project, Bob!

Bob,

P&D does offer the curved end grabs, I have purchased them. The straight grabs can be bent, but carefully. It is soft brass.

Glad to see Train Life has cleared up their website issue.

Thanks guys!

The RSC3 used A1A trucks, equally spaced wheels.  The RSD4/5 used the "C" truck with unequal wheel spacing, so the P&D conversion kit (if I could even find one) wouldn't work.

I have removed the cast-on top fan screen, pretty easy to do with a Dremel.  Left just enough "edge" so the brass screen would have something to lay on.  Not sure how to attach the fan blade but that should be easy to figure out.

I just started researching RC systems and batteries so I'll see what's available.  I'm hoping to use an existing system that's being used for other ground applications (car, truck) like Ed Reutling did.  Something that can be easily bought and plugs in.

But first I need to finish modifying the shell and get it painted/lettered.

This really needs to go to the 2-rail forum.

Bob - for more info on battery power options see the April issue of Model Railroader.  I find the most interesting being those that combine an RC receiver, battery, and a DCC sound decoder.  I hope at some point RC standards are set so that we don't find ourselves with propriety technology that fragments the market.  

Ed Rappe

Thanks Ed, I'll try to find a copy.

I've seen batteries that are very thin and small and have a lot of output for their size, I believe the days of having to attach a "battery car" to an engine are over.  Even if you get an hours worth of run time, that's plenty for me and if done right you simply pull the engine into a "fueling station" to recharge.  I think the main thing we need to be concerned about is slow speed, is it slow enough.  From what I've seen from the late Joe G and his efforts the slow speed is there.

It's just a matter of finding the right parts to cobble together.  I'm also looking at Tony Walsham's RCS offerings from Australia:

http://www.rcs-rc.com/

I've actually been looking and posting to him for quite some time.  It's a matter of pulling the trigger at this point.

Mario, rather than taking anything away from Bob's great thread, I have updated my post above to include links to some older threads about my ALCo RS detailing projects.

You'll probably be the first to notice what's missing from my three detailed engines...fixed pilots and scale couplers!!  Scratch-building and weathering were big step for me.  I've been admiring your great work with the fixed pilots and I'm starting to inch closer and closer to taking on 3-Rail scale!!!

Got another question on the Weaver RS3.

Do the sideframes come off the trucks, if so, how?

I'm sure they do, but I can't see where/what to push on or disconnect.

Yes. They do and they are mounted onto the truck bolster with a expansion fitting of sorts.  Looking down from the top of the truck you can see a square opening that reveals how that works. 

A study in irritation and frustration....yet they do come off, just about that point in time where language gets colorful, moderate amounts of skin have been shredded, and the urge to throw things has arrived.  O scale!   

Thanks Martin, glad to hear it's a piece-o-cake

It's like a puzzle almost (or is it me that's puzzled?)

Bob,

the sideframes have a center stem that fits into the bolster and clicks into place. care should be taken when pulling them out as they have been known to break the stem. (I've done that).

another tip is to file the notch on the stem on either side so the notch wraps around the circumference a bit. this allows better equalization (rotation) of the sideframes. you don't have to file off too much material.

that trick plus added weight made all the difference in the engine handling the myriad turnouts and crossovers on our club layout without derailing.

Hence the colorful language and urge to throw,  

I know P&D Hobby offers a lot of items specifically for the RS3:

http://pdhobbyshop.com/

That's where I got all my parts I'm going to add.

I was just there last week...

It should be on your list of must-visit places.  It's an unbelievable and unforgettable experience... I spent more time chatting than shopping and wish I could go back every week!

Their parts supply is AWESOME!  I bought way more than I need... and will next time I visit, as well.

Thanks,

Mario

PS - Don was the cherry on the sundae! What a great man...

I have used 2 methods for taking the trucks apart and both worked.  

the first one is to put stick the tips of a needle nose pliers in the center of the underside of the bolster against the end of the sideframe pins.    Then PULL the handles on the pliers apart putting presure on the pins.   One or the other will pop out and fly a little.

The second is to use a small screw driver (about 1/8 inch blade) and pry a pin loose.   Insert the tip of the screwdriver under one of the ends of the pins in the center of the bolster and pry it up.   there is a notch on the pin and catch on the bolster. 

In either case, you don't put pressure on the sideframes and pretty much eliminate a chance of the breaking the pin off the side frame.

Thanks Jim, what I need is more light on my worktable to see what I'm doing