What items do I need to run only a Visionline locomotive?

I power my layout with the MTH Z4000 with Legacy and MTH control. All works well

Rick;

Keep in mind that even the Vision Line engines will run conventionally. While you will not be able to access the advanced Legacy features, you will be able to run the engine and some of the features - check out the manual which can be found on Lionel’s website. The addition of the Cab 2, while desirable, is not immediately necessary.

If you plan to only run the big boy or for that matter, Legacy Command locomotives on that loop, then the Lionel 180 watt brick is the most economical solution IMO. The MTH Z4000 is a brute and we run 4 of them on our club layout at full throttle voltage around 21 to 22 volts and the Vision locomotives run for hours with no damage. However, it’s overkill for your needs. I run three 180 watt bricks at home and the breakers are fast and unlike all the bashing of the electronics you’ll hear on the forum, I have yet to suffer any damage using this configuration. I did install TVS diodes on the output of each brick and you can search the forum using TVS and find all the information you need to obtain and install them. It sounds as if your pretty savvy on that end as you have some electronic experience though. Good luck in your hunt and be patient in your search as they do show up for reasonable prices. I could have had one slightly used this past April from an estate sale for $1650.

I used to have a Z4000 for my carpet layout. Yes, overkill, but more to the point I have found that the smoke performance of Legacy/TMCC engines, including those from 3rd Rail Sunset models, is better with the power bricks or a ZW-L.   Look up the forum debate on Lionel's advice on using chopped sine wave transformers like theirs as opposed to other manufacturers' products if you are interested in the technical details. I also got it straight from Scott Mann at 3rd Rail that chopped sine wave is better for his TMCC products.

Aside from that, the fuses trip on the bricks when they should and don't seem to me to be either over- or under-sensitive. If you eventually decide to add MTH DCS to your system they will power the TIU with no problem although you need an adapter cable, which is not hard to source.

Hancock52 posted:

I used to have a Z4000 for my carpet layout. Yes, overkill, but more to the point I have found that the smoke performance of Legacy/TMCC engines, including those from 3rd Rail Sunset models, is better with the power bricks or a ZW-L.   Look up the forum debate on Lionel's advice on using chopped sine wave transformers like theirs as opposed to other manufacturers' products if you are interested in the technical details. I also got it straight from Scott Mann at 3rd Rail that chopped sine wave is better for his TMCC products.

Aside from that, the fuses trip on the bricks when they should and don't seem to me to be either over- or under-sensitive. If you eventually decide to add MTH DCS to your system they will power the TIU with no problem although you need an adapter cable, which is not hard to source.

I certainly agree on the smoke being better with the bricks. My Vision Genset and Hybrid produce anemic smoke on the club layout compared to home.

Haha, no one really answered your question directly.

To run the big boy with all its features you just need the 990 system and a 135w or 180 watt Powerhouse (bricks).  That's it!

SandJam posted:

Haha, no one really answered your question directly.

To run the big boy with all its features you just need the 990 system and a 135w or 180 watt Powerhouse (bricks).  That's it!

 

Thank you.

Thank you for the replies guys.

Someone just explained to me the difference between a PowerHouse and a PowerMaster.  Now it makes sense.  I did not get the same (maybe clear) explanation from watching the Lionel video that explained all the track power options..

If you want to get technical, the question regarding radius, or diameter, and terminal tracks is still not answered. While the locomotive is designed for 072 operation, if you can afford the space, I would certainly choose the largest radius curves, 084 or 096 and add a few more straight tracks to your terminal tracks to boot!

It looks like all I really need, power wise, is the 135 watt Powerhouse.

Does the 135w Powerhouse have the same circuit breaker protection (quickness) as the 18w Powerhouse?

No, the PH135 has a pedestrian thermal breaker, the PH180 has a fast electronically controlled relay breaker.  They are light years apart in performance.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

No, the PH135 has a pedestrian thermal breaker, the PH180 has a fast electronically controlled relay breaker.  They are light years apart in performance.

John,

You're awesome!

Thank you.

I only have 180 watt bricks. The 135 watt would certainly work for the big boy with plenty to spare, but I don't know if their available, what breaker they use, and how much they cost. If it's twenty or thirty bucks difference, what's that to a $2000 locomotive and a $350 control system? I purchased a spare 180 watt brick last year for around $80 plus shipping. This gives me 10 amps to run my biggest power hog train which tops out at around 8 amps. You should also consider what you'll pull with the big boy. I've seen people pulling seven or eight older passenger cars with incandescent lamps and I've seen people pull 30 Monopoly cars! For my money, it's 180 watt bricks.

It looks like GRJ cleared up the 135 vs. 180 watt PH breaker comparison!