Which low-cost soldering iron/gun/station?

I think a 15 watt with a pencil tip should work ok.  I think Jim Barrett has an article on soldering.  Keeping the tip clean is super important. 

Brewman1973 posted:

I think a 15 watt with a pencil tip should work ok.  I think Jim Barrett has an article on soldering.  Keeping the tip clean is super important. 

That's what I use.....about $10 at one of those tool places. That way I can use it for soldering wires to track, kinda slow but works, or wire/PC repair on locos etc. Works for me! 

We are using those 100 watt Weller soldering guns at our club. Using that on gargraves track as we are soldering every section together as we build the new layout. Don't want to have the voltage drop issues we had on our previous layout.

Keith L posted:

...maybe to a PCB on a contemporary locomotive, to an e-unit on a postwar engine, or to connect a power feeder to a track?

To me, you are talking two different soldering irons.  A smaller one like Dave mentioned for circuit boards and a larger (much larger) to solder wire to track.  I have a low cost Weller WLC100 40 watt soldering station for the more delicate work, and a Weller 8200PKS 140/100 watt soldering gun for soldering to my Gargraves/Ross track.  I think if you have Atlas track there are better ways than soldering; do a forum search.

I agree with Ron and the previous poster regarding wiring to track.  I have a heck of a time soldering to track, especially the middle rail on Atlas track.  I have a Weller for that purpose, and I think that prep work is really important.  That said, the little 20 watt iron that I use is ECG J-020.  It get hot quickly and has an on off switch. 

https://www.amazon.com/ECG-J-0...s=ecg+soldering+iron

The Jim Barrett article "Soldering made Easy" is in the Digital Library for subscribers. It was originally published in May 2013.   A digital subscription gives you access to all OGR runs published since 2009.  

Prep work on gargraves track: using at slow speed the cutting wheel on a Dremel tool shining up the area where we are soldering on the outside rails and doing the same on the blackened center rails. We solder on the outer part of the outside rails so the wheel flanges do not hit any soldering.  Using rosin core solder with # 22 wire and have solder many, many joints so far with ease.

I have a 20w iron and a 40w.  Which one I use depends on the nature of the job.  I've never had to solder track, so I've never needed a 100w soldering gun.

I'd call 30w "all around" capable. But imo, easiest is hottest. I feel lack of heat transfer is the biggest issue with novices (or trying to use plumbing solder). The danger of hotter is overdoing your stay in some situations can do more damage. But in&out, you give less time for the heat to creep away from the joint area. It's a balance. 

  In as fluid a motion as heat allows, poke your solder to the iron first, a small puddle will give faster heat transfer, then move to the pieces as they reach temp.

   But I dont want to wait 5min for heat to transfer to a heavy item, and know if I sit on a board too long, a trace might lift, so i.m.o. it is a matter of "style".

  Personally, I'd rather have a very hot iron. I go with the light pens for boards only, regular tight work at about 25-40w and a heavy 200-260watt gun for the rest, track espescially. (e.g. an e unit in place gets a pen, on a bench it gets a gunboat)   ( google, likes "gunboat" better )

Gentlemen, thank you all. Very helpful advice, information, and resources.

Cheers!

Keith

Ted Bertiger posted:

Prep work on gargraves track: using at slow speed the cutting wheel on a Dremel tool shining up the area where we are soldering on the outside rails and doing the same on the blackened center rails. We solder on the outer part of the outside rails so the wheel flanges do not hit any soldering.  Using rosin core solder with # 22 wire and have solder many, many joints so far with ease.

Solder the wires to the underside of the rail, putting a slug of solder inside the rail and soldering the tinned wire to it.  Can't pull it out, and it's invisible to the casual eye.  14ga buss with 16ga wire drops to the rail.  Bullet-proof ...

Solder the wires to the underside of the rail, putting a slug of solder inside the rail and soldering the tinned wire to it. 

We are making our own gargraves curves from wooden forms screwed down on pre-drawn lines. Track is then laid in place and screwed down to painted ceiling tiles that are turned upside down glued to the plywood. Straights are done the same for straightness with lines to keep it straight.

Can't solder to the bottom of the rails. 

   By now, you have an idea of how many ties must be removed, so you could begin with the soldering of pigtails, then build the roadbed etc.

   Nothing wrong with soldering the rails, but copper does deliver better, especially on a long run.

Anyone used this model?

Weller 40 iron for with LEDs $10

That is a lot of watts for the price.

Looks like the tip would be too big for PCB work but might be good for transformer terminals and soldering to track.

The classic 140/100 watt Weller gun is currently $27 at Amazon.  I don't know how long that price will last.

Weller Solder Gun

I have been lucky enough to pick up a few of these at thrift stores and yard sales.  Have yet to find one that needed anything more than a new tip or light bulb.  They are beast and I mean that as a good thing.