Which rotary tool is the choice of OGR forum members

I have certainly broken my share of Dremel cut-off wheels. As far as I know, it's never been due to excessive RPM's. I always wear goggles. I like to be able to see.

 More speed, less pressure. It sometimes seems like its slower cutting, but the right pressure for RPM is lacking is all.

Note, CW said goggles, not glasses.

 Glasses can trap the rebound off your big forehead, and funnel things down into your eyes. Things that would have bounced clear without them on for a catch 22.

 Goggles!

 Or at least a full face mask with a forehead shelf to block falling debris.

Make it a habit.

Even a habit fails.

  I've had no less than 12 trips to the hospital for removal of debris from my eyes. They started sending me home with eye numbing drops to store for future use till I could get to a doctor..... "Next time"

 I wear glasses every day to see too. Only two of those times, I wasn't wearing anything. 

 We could talk about big grinders and new front teeth too.

I find that the cutting wheel works best at higher speeds with less pressure as well.  The only time I use the lowest speed is when I just want to remove the surface coating of something for soldering.  For Atlas track, I clean the rail flange at low speed with the wheel, makes a nice surface to solder to.

If it's from anything, I've found that they break from encountering an ID-10-t user holding the Dremel and not holding it steady and straight while cutting something.  Slow and steady hands preserve cut off wheels.  I've never had one break from good use at max rpm - btw, I generally use an older Dremel 395........

Last 2 I broke were from my picking up the Dremel and forgetting to clear the edge of the drill press base - ID-10-t user - brittle stuff that does not flex around corners well,

I have tons of the ceramic cutoff wheels, I never use them.  I stick to the fiber reinforced ones, they're very difficult to break.

I use the non reinforced Dremel cutoff wheels when a thin kerf is desirable. Then immediately remove them from the tool when finished otherwise due to Murphy's law it will get bumped and the wheel broken. I think I have broken as many wheels when not in use as when using it.

Pete

The Dremel's with the internal speed control just don't go slow enough for drilling plastic. I prefer to use a Dremel with no speed control with an old Dremel external speed controller. That way I can get the speed way down and drill, not melt the plastic I'm working on. The ones with an internal speed control won't work with the external controller. 

For drilling plastic I use a hand drill with a pin-vice bit for small drill bits.  I can go as slow as I like with no heating issues.  I don't see the Dremel as an ideal tool to drill in any case.

Before Dremel came out with their models with speed control I used a variac to control the speed. A variac will work with a speed control Dremel if you first set the Dremel to max. Probably work at less than max setting too.

I bought my first Dremel in the '70s. I used it with their drill press which I found very handy and had far less runout than a full size drill press. Then I burned out the motor working on cars and when I sent it to them for repairs they sent me a newer model which no longer fit in the drill press. I was bummed out.

Pete

Yes.  Using a variable speed drill press is far better for speed control and also better for holding the item being drilled nice & stable.

mwb,

   Now that sir is a good old set up no doubt about it, quality tooling, that never fails and works correctly over time.

PCRR/Dave

Yup!

This variable speed one works, too!  And, you don't even have to plug it in,

I'm still using a Dremel 270 I've had for over 40 years. As its only one speed I use a Variac to control rpms and a foot switch for on-off. It probably will outlast me.

Scotie

 My model #2 didn't die until about 2005 when I dropped it and broke a brush holder.

That's how I ended up using the newer 1970s Dayton tool. The Dayton had been sitting around as backup, used only for jobs #2 couldn't fit around as well.

 I had a 270 as well, but mine was a lemon. One of three motor tools that burnt up with normal use. The others, both newer models with a circuit board. The other new "board model" was a Craftsman.

 I figured something on the boards was limiting amperage so I just stuck with the old school stuff vs buying a new one again. 

 When I was a kid, and brittle plastic was everywhere, my Grandfather showed me a bit run backwards heated and softened the plastic. A quick reversal would then cut quickly and usually not snag, and shatter the plastic.

 You can melt through going backwards too if its thin.   

I have a Hammer and it works fine. I use the dremel that the club has if any modifications are necessary.

I bought my dremel in 1972 and have been using it all these years.  It did start to make groaning sounds about 4 years ago so I took it apart and greased it up and it is still going strong today.

 I did buy a new one with all the trimmings 4 years ago figuring the old one was not long for this world.  The new one and all the attachments really looks and sounds great.  I gave it a try to see it work and then put it back in case figuring I would pull it out when the old one bites the dust.  4 years later and the old one is still going strong and the new one is still in the box waiting it's turn at bat.  

IMO the dremel is the perfect tool for a train hobbyist.

Ed