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Originally Posted by bob2:

Before I started having rods cast, I made very credible side rods out of K&S .064 bar stock.  Bob Stevenson has my patterns for fully reversible clevised rods in many sizes.

 

The "reversible" feature means you can have either smooth sided or I beam rods.  The one set that is missing is the FEF.  I would do them if there is a great demand.

 

Valve gear is truly trivial.  K&S .032x1/8" strip, an new file, a #62 drill, and you can quickly make almost anything.  PSC has Walschaerts links.

 

The loss to our hobby was the CLW castings.  Bob's H10 main rods were useful for everything.  I bought them by the dozen.

 

Bob-right now I'm sourcing parts, so I'm thankful for any leads.  Is Mr. Stevenson a forum member?  

 

Originally Posted by Ron H:

TA, If you use a track that has an actual T-rail you'll be fine. However I recommend gauging everything to NMRA standards. The problem is the switches. I've had it with scaletrax switches and will begin to convert my RR to 1/48 2 rail atlas and Micro engineering with custom switches. I'm going to lay N scale rail as the 3rd rail. I've already been slowly converting all the rolling stock to 2 rail wheels. It's near impossible to get prototype smoothness, but I want to try.

 

Ron- I'd like to do your track style, but I just finished buying all the Gargraves I need for the layout.  Time is limited for me, so I am going to stay with the Gargraves and devote my time to scratch building structures/rolling stock/engines.

 

Keep me posted on how your 2-rail conversion is going.  Very interested.

 

Looking for locomotive blue prints today.  Did some on-line searching last night and found a place, but they want $300 for them!  NOT!  Saw a book at the used bookstore last week, so I am going back today to check it out.  I don't think it had the locomotives I am looking for, though.  

 

Any ideas where to find blue prints?

 

Thanks!

Originally Posted by 86TA355SR:

Bob-right now I'm sourcing parts, so I'm thankful for any leads.  Is Mr. Stevenson a forum member?  

 

Highly doubtful --> http://stevensonpreservationlines.com/

 

Any ideas where to find blue prints?

You might consider searching for information using one of the several model RR magazine indices that also cover many of the prototype publications.

 

You might also consider contacting the NMRA library with a specific request for plans of specific engines - you don't have to be a member and the charge for copies is nominal.

Originally Posted by mwb:
Originally Posted by 86TA355SR:

Bob-right now I'm sourcing parts, so I'm thankful for any leads.  Is Mr. Stevenson a forum member?  

 

Highly doubtful --> http://stevensonpreservationlines.com/

 

Any ideas where to find blue prints?

You might consider searching for information using one of the several model RR magazine indices that also cover many of the prototype publications.

 

You might also consider contacting the NMRA library with a specific request for plans of specific engines - you don't have to be a member and the charge for copies is nominal.

Thanks for the help!

 

There is beautiful stuff on Mr. Stevenson's page.  WOW.

 

I'll contact the NMRA and see what I can find.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Bob,

Started tracking down the references you posted.  

 

Also ordered William Kratvilles's book, Motive Power of the Union Pacific. Not sure if it'll have drawings or not, but I want to read it for general education.  I enjoyed his Challenger and Big Boy books Hot Water recommended.   

 

I'm building a 2-10-2 and a 2-8-8-0 Bull Moose (both UP).  The 2-10-2 is first.  Goal is to have the tender built by end of summer.  I am in no hurry, want to do it correctly/accurately.

 

In today's other news, my MTH Union Pacific Turbines arrived-all 4 of them!  Since I am a steam engine only guy, these are my only non-steam motive power.  They were offered to me at a great deal, so I bought them.  Glad I did, they are very nice.    

 

 

 

 

I did my first one at age 44.  Paul Stroebel (RIP) started building locomotives in his 70s. I got to know him because he called me with questions about my OGR articles.  Interesting and accomplished guy - he was VP Europe for Dow Chemicals at one point.

 

Like almost anything else, it is one step at a time, and there are levels of achievement.  For instance, our local caboose maker can run circles around me in the skill department. That fact does not bother me much - we all have a niche.

Originally Posted by Tinplate Art:

At 71, I do not have the time nor patience, not to mention the talent, to even consider such a project!

You may not have the time or patience, but you will never know or acquire the talent or skills w/o starting.

 

I have very little patience when I'm in my shop building something so I tend to be building 3-5 projects at the same time.  I now know that if I ever have the opportunity to completely re-design my shop, it would be bench space all the way around the room at a level comfortable for me to be standing - I get bored sitting!

 

Time, I find in between everything else - I still work full-time in a publish or perish environment that forces me to be working almost every day at some level.  I am regularly told that I will have less time after I retire.  I'm not sure how that can work w/o some alteration of the space-time structure of the universe.  I'll find out in about 3 years, if all goes as planned.

Don't have much to show for my effort today, but I did get something done.

 

Contacted UPHS (Union Pacific Historical Society) and ordered a few books.  They also put me in touch with someone about getting blue prints.  Great folks.

 

Tracked down several sources for brass, all local. I'll use it for my detail parts.

 

Still need to find a motor, frame, and...the list is too long to write...

 

Excited to get this project going.  It'll open a whole new horizon of possibilities for my Union Pacific collection.

 

 

The key for me is to do small amounts of work at a time, to quit when I start feeling tired, and most importantly, to stay in practice by working on a regular basis. I think that last point isn't emphasized enough--I'd be willing to bet that very few people could immediately do contest-quality work after not touching a tool for 3 months....

 

Jeff C

Last edited by leikec
Originally Posted by colorado hirailer:

I sure am envious reading these comments about bashing or scratching steam locomotives. I have the patience to work on it, but not the patience to spend that long a time on one project, when there are cabooses, and structures, and.....etc. to be built.  Too many trains, too little time....

The cure for that is to consider each component a separate project--I bet if you built the frame and running gear you'd start wondering what it would be like to see a boiler and cab mounted on top....

 

Jeff C

I need blue prints or draftsmen drawings with measurements.  The drawings don't have to be these cab #s as long as they are the same class.
 
Looking for 'blue prints' of the following Union Pacific steam locomotives:
 
2-10-2:  TTT-6 Cab #5500-5514
2-8-8-0:  SA-C-6 Cab #3545-3564
4-8-4:  FEF-1 Cab #800-819
 
Not sure what happened, but the ones I got in the mail today are the wrong ones...
 
If anybody has some of these, could you please e-mail them or post?  
 
av8tor1908@gmail dot com
 
bob2,
 
I was thinking of using this Pittman for the 2-8-8-0:
Universal shafts on each side to power both sets of drivers...
 
This Pittman for the non-articulated locomotives:
 
This drive, modified as necessary to work in both locomotive types:
 
The motors meet your suggestions earlier in the post.  My goal is smooth, low speed operation.  These are listed as DC, but I plan to use in traditional 3 Rail AC? Am I missing something?
 
Tom D,
Sending e-mail shortly.
 
Thanks!
 
 
 
Last edited by 86TA355SR
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