Why does WBB wire dual motors in parallel?

I would say that to use LED's effectively in an engine you would need a voltage regulator a current limiting resistor and full wave bridge rectifier. LED's work best with a constant current supply. If the voltage goes too low or too high so goes the current. Too low and the LED doesn't energize. Too high and the LED burns out!

hello guys and gals.......

 

I have a WBB GP-9 and didn't change anything on the wiring and with red & tacky grease, the engine will "walk" and you could count the ties as it walks over. I was using the Z-4000 to run it.  I learned to "feather" the handle of the transformer.  My Z4000 starts at 11.7 volts at the crack of the handle. The GEEP motors and gears are well broken in and crawls but can fly away to the moon if wanted to.  I have about 50 hours on the engine. I don't use much grease as it will leave a mess on the rails but just to keep the gears "wet" with grease as that's all it needs.

 

Tiffany

I've changed all my conventional to series where I can. Very easy. Surprised WBB engines don't come with a simple switch that allows you to go from parallel to series and back.

- With properly geared locos this parallel/series thing is a non-starter, along with cruise control.

 

- I have a RK 0-8-8-0 (ex-2-8-8-2) with 2 motors and a TMCC (Train America) upgrade.

Too early for aftermarket cruise. I wired it in series and noted a marked improvement

in low-speed performance. Not ERR-slow, but better. I've done a couple of others.

 

- A friend has a Williams E-7 (L&N, for the record) that was upgraded with 

a TMCC systen from another loco. An area hobby shop/Lionel service station did it.

No cruise.

 

The owner later wired the 2 motors in series - and the loco would not move/run. He's electrically savvy, so he knows that he did it right (how hard is it, anyway?). He put it back to parallel and the loco ran fine. Just FYI.

I have yet to have any of my evans LEDs burn out yet some have been in my engines for three years now.

 

Fully Assembled with a super compact full wave Bridge Rectifier
for "always on" forward and reverse operation, a dropping resistor
and 9" of strong kynar wire after the rectifier.  Up to 25 Volts!

 

 

Hello suzukovich..........

 

I am interesting in purchasing few of those, do they come in colors such as red or green? Where can we purchase some ?

 

Tiffany

Ken, what's the part number for the thermistors you mentioned on the first page of this thread?  Sounds like a worthwhile mod.  Is this something I can buy from Digi-Key, Mouser, or Radio Shack?

 

Why do you suppose the OEMs don't already include one of these on the output circuit of their electronic reverse boards?  Thanks!

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/bl-212.html

Ted, I used inrush current limiting (thermistor) devices picked up from DigiKey.  These are CL-160, P/N KC016L-ND. 

 

The thermistor is simply wired in series with the two motors.   Blue wire from one motor connects to the thermistor,  other side of the thermistor connects to the yellow wire from the other motor.

 

The thermistor is a resistor whose resistance varies with temperature.  As it gets warmer, the resistance decreases.  It can be used to limit the initial flow of current and voltage for a gradual start.   On the GP30, I used only one.  On my older engines I use two.  The GP30 is not quite the racehorse that older Williams locos are, and I think two thermistors might take "too much off the top", but I did not experiment to confirm.

 

These are 2.8 Amps, you can find them at higher current levels if needed.  Resistance varies from 5.0 Ohms at room temp down to 0.2 Ohms when warm.

-- Ken 

I also like using Evans LEDs as replacements for headlights.   Could not be easier.   I like really strong and consistent headlights.

When selecting current inrush limiters you do not want one much higher than current draw at normal running. The current rating coincides with the minimum resistance figure. Pick a current rating too high and it will never approach zero ohms. These will tolerate brief overcurrent without blowing up.

 

Pete

Tiffany most LHS should carry them. Here is the link to their web site where you can purchase direct and also see all their products

 

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ledlights1.html

 

Doug

Rob,

I did a forum search as well as a search on Dale's site, but I can't find any info on the series mod.  My WBB is fine as is, but I have a K-Line and MPC that may be good candidates.  Any leads?  Please share.  Thx, Chris.

Thank you, Rob!  I have some studying to do.  Chris

Interesting topic good coverage.

 

I have a fleet of Williams engines great pullers run well.

As I run them mostly constantly with long trains at shows the start stop is not an issue for speed just get them rolling set speed and leave them running most of the day for the odd show.

 

Interesting in a recent magazine review of the new Williams engines on speed with low volts and sound system a constant engine sound. I would be uncomfortable with a constant engine sound running all day would get annoying with no way to shut it off.

 

I think perhaps if Williams would just re-gear all its engines so they run slower overall they would be better engines for switching starting and stopping more smoothly and the new sound system would be more useful being able to run a range of sounds.

 

As for the Evans designs LED sets they are great have converted every Williams engine to use them.

They stay about the same brightness from the train just moving to warp speed no matter the voltage and as noted can run on AC or DC with nothing added.

They have green red white warm and cold white yellow flickering fires etc.

 

I have bought and used lots of bulbs the flickering fire set for the Hobo fire on the Polar express roof works well.

 

On the engines I use what ever bulb will fit the headlights very nice bright beam.

For the # boards or marker lights the smaller bulbs work well.

If you take a small bulb and point it back into the cab and surround it with tinfoil this works best for lighting the # boards.

 

The small bulbs can fit some of the marker lights.

 

Also work well for the tail ends of passenger trains marker lights etc.

 

Again if we all wrote Williams Bachmann and said please gear your engines lower the perhaps we would get better sounding and running engines from the lower voltages. They would be better at starting with heavy loads have more torque.

 

Few Williams engines would even stay on the tracks with a full load.

though they would be great for Trains nascar racing!

You're welcome. It's just a stroke of luck I checked in when I did - I am working in the garage tonight on my twin DOHC Taurus(severe electrical issues - lots of soldering & heat shrink tubing) and the computer I was closest to had this drawing from Dale in the documents file. Please be advised, I have not tried it yet, or needed it.

Here is the link to series mod.

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...ms-engine-run-slower

 

https://ogrforum.com/t...r-speed-modification